Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner

Rear lower control arms

11K views 31 replies 11 participants last post by  Charlie-III 
#1 · (Edited)
so ive been looking at KJB's adjustable lower control arms (http://www.kjbmotorsports.com/suspen-hyu-tibv6-rearcontrol.html) and i really want to get a set but yesterday i was cleaning my car and i set her up on the hoist to do my inspection of the suspension and other components and i noticed some things.

so the tiburon has 2 control arms on each side one is adjustable and one is not,
the arms all seem identical in length and design, the only thing that is different is one is adjustable and one is not.

so i have to ask could i go to a wreckers and pick up another set of adjustable ones and put them where the solid bars are?

heres some pics. im going to go to the wreckers next friday and see if they have a tib, i remember them having 2 f/l tibs but idk if they have gone to the crushers yet.

P.S. these pics were from when my shocks were completely blown.





Any input would be greatly appreciated..

p.s.s. im sick of looking at that stupid 2" exhaust on the tib.. im looking into a good resonator and either 1 or 2 good mufflers. i havent decided if im going to do single, double, under or over axle.. so many decisions lol we have a pipe bender at work that can do up to 3.5" piping. so 2.5 stainless it is lol
 
See less See more
3
#2 ·
Double under axle, unless you think your crazy suspension is going to be so low that it will rub on speed bumps.
 
#4 ·
Looking at it, I don't see why it wouldn't work. The question is, are the adjustable ones as strong as the solid ones?
 
#5 ·
well both are put under the same stress so i cant see why this wouldn't work. i would pick up a set of bushings from kjb.

and because of this i wouldn't have to get a camber kit for the rear, the ability to change both arms would change camber and toe.
 
#6 ·
Then I say go for it! As long as it doesn't snap lol.
 
#7 ·
im gonna call the wreckers next friday.. (my only day off lol) im going to do everything at the same time.

steering rack
shocks.
tein springs
rear control arms

then ill play with the alignment and find a setup im in love with... i need to find a good front and rear sway bar for sale. ill probably call rob.. his number is in my tool box. then ill brake out the welder and get creative with some other stuff :)

then i can give gabe his new shocks
 
#22 ·
You might want to re-think the front sway bar. I hear its not good for FWD cars as it makes understeer worse
 
#8 ·
Which he needs pretty damn badly lol. He should be able to install them himself, I hope. :p
 
#11 ·
its not like i dont want the kjb ones i really do, im just weird like that when i see an alternative i usually go for it, i guess im cheap lmao but the car has been such a drag on my wallet that finding cheap mods and ways to fix it has become a 2nd sense lol
 
#10 ·
with the state of the rest of the bolts on the car i think its better if i do it lol. i said i would anyways haha... he also wants my red calipers and i said he could have them in exchange for his, (Im not using them anyways)
 
#12 ·
Haha true true! Good trade. I'll paint mine when I replace my pads and rotors. They're getting pretty low, but I'm super broke right now, and kinda without the car ATM as well.
 
#15 ·
powder coating lol that will look sweet, a guy came in yesterday that worked at a transport truck paint shop, he painted his calipers and drums on his honda minivan. my god did it ever look amazing. he said the paint was 3 years old but because of the clear cotes it still looks new. he used this crazy expensive clear coat.

but anyways lol ya its settled, the tib will no longer be winter driven and i am going forward with this mod
 
#16 ·
I'm debating buying another Tib so I don't have to drive mine in the winter. We'll see though.
 
#18 ·
I've had no problems driving my Tib in the winter. Better than driving the Tahoe.

EDIT: Might get a small SUV, like a Santa Fe. My mom can get a new car...
 
#26 ·
I have heard rumors about these products that KJB is coming out with and i have been saving for them since lol. i have emailed kevin but i guess hes very busy with other work. i want to know about these control arms.. they are for the front i hope. lol
 
#24 · (Edited)
I have a 2004 Elantra, but has the same suspension setp as the Tiburon.

I picked up a second set of the adjustable rear arms from a wreckers yard around 6 months ago, and only just fitted them today.

Must say even after 135,000 km the underside of my car and all suspension parts are rust free, with all nuts and bolts so easy to remove!. Damn I love Australia. :) (and feel sorry for you guys with salt placed on snow roads)

The standard fixed arms measured 602mm from outer edge to outer edge, and I set the 'new' adjustable arms to 607mm outer edge to edge. I set the original adjustable arms also to 607mm, so in theory giving me a 10mm increase in rear track, which will help reduce understeer a touch as well as filling up the rear guards a bit better (a bit more on this later).

After tightening it all back up, I checked the wheel alignment and with a small tweak to the right rear toe, the set up was how I wanted it.

I then checked the rear camber, and the camber had changed from 0.5 deg negative to 1.5 deg negative. So In summary, the extra 5mm length each the rear arm added approx 1 deg negative camber. And the top of the tyres were in the same position in the guards as before!!!

For my car and driving needs, I consider 1.5 negative camber to be excessive, so will be getting some camber bolts to dial out the camber back to 0.5 degrees negative at the rear. This will help the tyres to fill up the guards better in the wheel arch, as with 1.5 neg camber the wheels still don't fill out the guards as much as i wanted.

If you just want to use the arms to adjust rear camber, they are a good way to go. If you want to use them to increase the rear track to fill to the guards more or reduce understeer slightly, then you may also need to fit camber bolts to compensate for the increased negatve camber.

As far as strength of the OEM arms, for driving on street tyres or even the occasional track day, they will be strong enough unless you really pound the car hard over the ripple strips etc. If you are considering running slick tyres for track days, then the OEM arms may not be up to it and I would suggest going for a stronger aftermarket arm may be required. But then if you are serious about your track days and want to run a full slick tyre, almost every part of the suspension should be upgraded first before you fit the slicks, as the lateral loads are much higher than what Hyundai would have ever designed the car for.
 
#28 ·
Adjusting the rear lower control arms (lateral link bars) to increase track width is a defeating purpose and in no way should be used to increase track width. Increasing track width is done with wider wheels, greater offsets or adapters / spacers. The adjustments on the control arms are for camber and toe only. You will get yourself into trouble and weaken the rear suspension by over-extending the control arms and using camber bolts to try and widen your stance.
Trailing arms, if I am refering to the correct suspension bar, is a fixed geometry point for both the front and rear suspension as it controls the caster and fore and aft movement and the fixed location of the hub in relationship to the alignment of the rear control arms of the hub assembly. It is useless to make this arm adjustable and if reproduced, should only be for added strength and or the replacement of bushing material such as polyurethane or delrin. If anyone is that much interested in changing the caster measurements of their suspension (1 or 2 degrees), then it should be done at the upper strut mount.
Choose your suspension parts wisely. The use of rod end bearings to replace suspension points is intended for race applications and or show and are not intended for street applications. DD and street applications will place far more abuse and stress on these parts then a momentary race application. The use of polyurethane or delrin would be more satisfactory for suspension stiffness, and even delrin will make you feel every bump in the road.
 
#29 ·
I disagree.

The threads in the standard adjusatble arms goes into the arm by around 25-30mm each side. By Increasing the effective length of each of my arm by 5mm means turning the threaded centre 'bolt' by a bit over 1 turn, being 2.5mm each side. 2.5mm from the 25-30mm available thread length is a small amount.

If you were looking to increase the effective length of each arm by 10-15mm each, then there would be a problem, but a 2.5mm each side of the thread is hardly 'over-extending' anything and well within the tolerance engineered into the parts.

If you were to want to increase the rear track by 10-20mm each side, then using the OEM arms would not be a good idea, and stronger aftermarket arms would be warranted. Same if you were to fit racing slicks as the lateral grip level offered by slicks can be 50% of more above a standard road tyre.

One thing to keep in mind with using OEM arms, is their condition. If you do use second hand ones from a wrecker, make sure that your original ones on your car and the ones from the wreckers are in very good condition. If you live in a cold area where they put heaps of salt on the
roads in winter, then almost anything steel under your car will be rusted. If they are rusted, buy some new ones!!!!!
 
#32 ·
He hasn't been on here since early 2014, not likely to reply back.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top