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Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

DIY: 
75K views 75 replies 38 participants last post by  generic420 
#1 ·
Another DIY for ya guys, this one for the rear wheel hubs, on my 03 Tiburon GT V6 6sp, but i think this is the same for everyone.

Parts to buy:
1. new hub assembly
2. new flange nut
3. new rotor screw


Tools Needed:

1. Air compressor
2. sockets
- 13/16
- 14mm
- impact screwdriver bit
- 1 1/4 inch

3. Brake Kleen
4. PB Blaster
5. floor jack and jackstand
6. Needle nosed pliers
7. a couple of flathead screwdrivers.
8. hammer
9. anti-sieze compound

tools you might need:

1. 3 jaw puller (available in your local auto parts store's "loan-a-tool" program

This is how we start.

Step 0. Read this DIY over first and throw some PB Blaster on every nut, screw, etc. that has to come off.



Step 1. take off wheel. use air ratchet with 13/16 socket. then we find the brakes to do.



Step3: pull off the screw holding the rotor to the hub. use your impact gun with a screwdriver bit on the end to get this off. Use some PB Blaster to loosen the rust and such. it's circled on the pic but i never found one on my rotor.

NOTE: use a regular screwdriver at your own risk. these screws are on there good and prone to stripping or snapping, and if you get unlucky enough, will keep you from taking off the rotor until you drill it out.



Step 4. unhook the E-brake cable. lock-jaw needle-nosed pliers is what i use to pull that little clip up, then you can wiggle the cable out of that little holder. alternately, you can wedge a flathead screwdriver in there to push it up. next go to the caliper where the cable connects and slide the little nub out of its holder.....



step 5. Use your 14mm to remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts. remove the caliper and set it aside, tie it hanging with a coathanger, etc.



step 6. throw some more PB blaster on the Caliper mounting brackhet bolts. wait a couple of minutes then remove the 2 caliper mounting bracket bolts. then remove the rotor and set it aside.

no picture here guys, sorry, but they should be super easy to find.

step 7. find the dust cap in the middle of the rotor. put a thin-bladed screwdriver between the face of the hub and the dust cap and tap a few times with the hammer to wedge it apart. turn the rotor slightly and find another spot to wedge, and repeat that until you get all the way around, and you should be able to pop off the dust cap...

step 8. Use your 1 1/4 socket to remove that flange nut, then either your hands or 2 small screwdrivers to slide out the washer behind it.



step 9. now the hub should just slide out, but it didn't for me. so i used a puller set up like the picture to pull the hub assembly off....



step 10. Brake Kleen the shaft the hub sits on, slide the new hub on, slide the washer onto the shaft, put the nut on and tighten it down. when you tighten it down, take a hammer and flathead screwdriver and stamp the end of the nut into the groove in the shaft like you found it.

step 11. put everything back the same way you got it off, make sure to BrakeKleen the rotor good and throw some anti-sieze on the caliper bolts so they come off when u go to do your next brake job...

here's torque specs for everything:

Caliper Mounting Bracket bolts: 48-55 ft-lbs
caliper mounting bolts: 16-24 ft-lbs
Flange nut: 148-192 ft-lbs
 
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#9 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

I have a grinding noise coming from my car (rear passenger)
I'm guess thats what it is...
I have 64k miles on mine.....
 
#10 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

I have a grinding noise coming from my car (rear passenger)
I'm guess thats what it is...
I have 64k miles on mine.....
FYI, I don't recommend TIMKEN any more. I went through two of them that DIDNT fit correctly. One was ordered through Rockauto, and the other through Autozone. Both had the same fitment issue with the assembly sitting too far deep on the spindle shaft.

Spend the extra 15 bucks and get the SKF part from Rockauto or contact LowSonoma here on the boards and me may be able to offer you an OEM rear hub for 125 shipped like he did for me. I was going to get that should the SKF part not work out but it fit like a glove. Ended up being around 115 shipped.

To figure out though if it is your hub:
  • jack up the car and secure it properly with wheel chocks and a backup stand
  • pull off the wheel
  • remove the phillips screw from the rotor hat
  • unclip the brake line from the strut
  • remove the two large bolts securing the caliper
  • suspend the clipers with a metal hanger or support it from the bottom with a box (do not let the *caliper dangel from the brake line)
  • remove the rotor
  • use a breaker bar to loosen hub flange nut (it's a BIG one)
  • remove tongue washer and slide the hub off.

inspect the bearings in the front and rear. If it sounds gritty and/or doesn't roll/spin smoothly with your fingers and if there is 'baked' on grease on the spindel shaft, it's busted.

It doesn't take long to disassemble (10 min.) once you have the right tools and go in the right order. It's a simple job with simple handtools.
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

I used a rented slide hammer and flange from Autozone....one whack and the entire hub popped right off.....MUCH easier than the "jaw" puller method.


Just an alternative fyi.......
 
#12 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Another bit of advice regarding removing those stubborn rear rotors..

If you have access to a large 2' crow bar, use it between the rotor and the hub where the opening in the brake dust shield is. Much easier and won't bend your rotor like hammering on it will, like I've done in the past.

I replaced my rear pass. hub bearing a couple months ago and a couple good taps to the back with a rubber mallet was all it took before it came off. PB blaster helps too.
 
#17 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

If you aren't sure which one is going bad, what is the easiest way to figure it out without disassembly?
Hubs can be worn at different stages. Some tall tell signs of failure are obviously noise and I believe if your bearings have busted or are leaking you'll have a stain or streak on the inside of your rim that lines up with the backside of the hub assembly.

You also check the "tightness" of the hub by just jacking the corner of the car up for the wheel you want to check and "pull" on the wheel. If it's moving in/out along the shaft then your bearings are bad. However a hub that needs replacing may not necessarily always move this badly. Usually noise is the first indicator that it may need replacing.
 
#25 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

lol, you're not supposed to re-use the flange nut.

and YMMV on this, my DIY's include "best practice" techniques and protocol.
 
#27 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

I am hoping this is the correct place for this as I didn't want to start a new thread for something that already existed.

My boyfriend and I have been attempting to replace the drivers side rear hub assembly and every time we have a wobble once the new assembly is installed and torqued down. We have tried 3 different assembly's and they are wobble. We put the old assembly back and and its tight with no wobble.Can anyone tell me how to fix this? Or could it be that we are using crappy parts? One assembly was AutoZone and the other was Advanced Auto. I am frustrated that nothing seems to fit correctly and am afraid to use the new wobbly assembly.
 
#69 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

I am hoping this is the correct place for this as I didn't want to start a new thread for something that already existed.

My boyfriend and I have been attempting to replace the drivers side rear hub assembly and every time we have a wobble once the new assembly is installed and torqued down. We have tried 3 different assembly's and they are wobble. We put the old assembly back and and its tight with no wobble.Can anyone tell me how to fix this? Or could it be that we are using crappy parts? One assembly was AutoZone and the other was Advanced Auto. I am frustrated that nothing seems to fit correctly and am afraid to use the new wobbly assembly.
Some of these hubs are built to the wrong specs, but the cheapest fix is to call McMasters-Carr and ask them for shims with this part number: 98089A420. There are ten in a bag, and you may need two per side to cure the end float. Best part: $8.69. They deal with the public as well as businesses, and no order is too small. These are really nice folks. It may stall your repair by a couple of days, but this beats returning parts and searching for hubs with no end float. I don't think it matters what brand they are. I have seen the same hub either fit perfectly or have a wad of end float.
 
#34 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

have to replace mine also.

called the dealership about the flange nut and washer...they wanted 12 for each nut and 6 for each washer....i was like wtf?? lol....talked her down to half off....I was about to contact low sonoma when she gave me a price figure of 45+ dollars for some nuts and washers lol....but at 25 bucks...i took it....specially since its a local pickup. funny how they hike up the prices dramatically...ridiculous
 
#36 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

replace the nut. might as well replace the washer
 
#37 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

hey, it's your money man. i just want the community to know that it's not necessary.

when i read a DIY or something and people are doing unnecessary stuff, i stop and say to myself "well why is he doing that? am i missing something?" and it's confusing...
 
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