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Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

u should get the SKF.

there's a huge difference in price because SKF is a reputable company that makes quality parts with tight tolerances. VALUE-PRO is made probably in china on 3rd rate machines with very little QC.


does anyone have the part# for the flange nut? 03_tibby_CT where did you pick up your flange nut? I'm in the New Haven area....
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

does anyone have the part# for the flange nut? 03_tibby_CT where did you pick up your flange nut? I'm in the New Haven area....
I think mine came in the box with the bearing. otherwise, the dealership.
 
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Another DIY for ya guys, this one for the rear wheel hubs, on my 03 Tiburon GT V6 6sp, but i think this is the same for everyone.

Parts to buy:
1. new hub assembly
2. new flange nut
3. new rotor screw


Tools Needed:

1. Air compressor
2. sockets
- 13/16
- 14mm
- impact screwdriver bit
- 1 1/4 inch

3. Brake Kleen
4. PB Blaster
5. floor jack and jackstand
6. Needle nosed pliers
7. a couple of flathead screwdrivers.
8. hammer
9. anti-sieze compound

tools you might need:

1. 3 jaw puller (available in your local auto parts store's "loan-a-tool" program

This is how we start.

Step 0. Read this DIY over first and throw some PB Blaster on every nut, screw, etc. that has to come off.



Step 1. take off wheel. use air ratchet with 13/16 socket. then we find the brakes to do.



Step3: pull off the screw holding the rotor to the hub. use your impact gun with a screwdriver bit on the end to get this off. Use some PB Blaster to loosen the rust and such. it's circled on the pic but i never found one on my rotor.

NOTE: use a regular screwdriver at your own risk. these screws are on there good and prone to stripping or snapping, and if you get unlucky enough, will keep you from taking off the rotor until you drill it out.



Step 4. unhook the E-brake cable. lock-jaw needle-nosed pliers is what i use to pull that little clip up, then you can wiggle the cable out of that little holder. alternately, you can wedge a flathead screwdriver in there to push it up. next go to the caliper where the cable connects and slide the little nub out of its holder.....



step 5. Use your 14mm to remove the 2 caliper mounting bolts. remove the caliper and set it aside, tie it hanging with a coathanger, etc.



step 6. throw some more PB blaster on the Caliper mounting brackhet bolts. wait a couple of minutes then remove the 2 caliper mounting bracket bolts. then remove the rotor and set it aside.

no picture here guys, sorry, but they should be super easy to find.

step 7. find the dust cap in the middle of the rotor. put a thin-bladed screwdriver between the face of the hub and the dust cap and tap a few times with the hammer to wedge it apart. turn the rotor slightly and find another spot to wedge, and repeat that until you get all the way around, and you should be able to pop off the dust cap...

step 8. Use your 1 1/4 socket to remove that flange nut, then either your hands or 2 small screwdrivers to slide out the washer behind it.



step 9. now the hub should just slide out, but it didn't for me. so i used a puller set up like the picture to pull the hub assembly off....



step 10. Brake Kleen the shaft the hub sits on, slide the new hub on, slide the washer onto the shaft, put the nut on and tighten it down. when you tighten it down, take a hammer and flathead screwdriver and stamp the end of the nut into the groove in the shaft like you found it.

step 11. put everything back the same way you got it off, make sure to BrakeKleen the rotor good and throw some anti-sieze on the caliper bolts so they come off when u go to do your next brake job...

here's torque specs for everything:

Caliper Mounting Bracket bolts: 48-55 ft-lbs
caliper mounting bolts: 16-24 ft-lbs
Flange nut: 148-192 ft-lbs
This will be my first job for the Tibby. Great guide thank you very much!
 
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

When you pulled the hub off did the old bearing come with?

And did u not have to use a press to get the new assembly back in?

Im replacing the front bearings and hubs on my 07 SE and they don't make assemblies for it, so i just bought the hubs and bearing and having them pressed on. So i dont know if im going to need to press them back onto the car...
 
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Thanks for the tutorial!

I've got a rear wheel bearing that needs replacement.
I checked the website RockAuto and didn't find the SKF part.
The only part that I saw that was available is the:
FIRST LINE Part # FBK957
Rear; HN61; coupe; S; FWD; ABS standard; From 01/02

So I was wondering if anybody knew if this is the correct part and if it will fit automaticly?
Price is about 68€ so 82$ for one.

Thanks!
 
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

hmm I have an 08 GS and litterally just ordered a Timkin HA590200...
did anyone have any fitment issues with this with an 07/08? or were pple with fitment issues the 03's? LMK :) planning on doing this this weekend if it comes in this week..
 
There seems to be quite a few rear bearings on the market that were manufactured to the wrong specs. I recently made a thread about my adventure with this problem. I had to make shims to get the hubs to fit properly.

The only hubs I know that are a verified fit are OEM, SKF, and MOOG.
 
Thank you for the DIY, it is very informative and help me to change hubs on mine 03 tiburon.

However, even with new hubs, the problem still exists. There is grinding sound which is noticeable after approximately 40-50 kmh.

For me, next step will be to check the axle washer is the correct size or should be smaller (thanks dudley), and if necessary get new washers and probably hub nuts. At the same time, I intend to check could be brake discs wraped, and change the brake pads.

Again, thanks for very informative post.
 
How do you know if the vehicle is equipped with abs? I know this is kind of a noob question, but back when i had my 03 i always assumed it did. I never had to replace my hub bearing and i traded it with 90k. But my new girlsfriends 06 gt is doing that annoying vibration drone sound that sounds like the bearing. She just got new tires and an alignment before i met her to try and fix the problem. But obviously the shop didn't know what they were doing, and just took her for a ride.
 
Hello All,

I have cleared up the grinding sound from rear. With all changes (rear wheel hub, brake discs and brake pads), the sound was coming from wrapped rim. Basic symptom was by increasing the speed grinding sound increased in volume.

If you have grinding sound in back, please remember that does not always means that the hub is bad.

My suggestion is following to be checked before changing anything.

1. Torque specification for wheel nuts
2. Wheel rim to be clean at the location where it touches hub
3. Wheel rim balancing
4. Brake caliper not to be seized
5. Brake pads and mounting hardware
6. Brake disc clean and not warped.
7. Torque specification for wheel hub nut
8. The wheel hub nut washer (not broken, twisted, dirty). Also check that it is centered because of preloading needed on the wheel bearing.
8. Wheel hub

Also, clean the parts with steel wool to remove any rust.

I hope that this will help you with diagnosis of the parts which needs to be changed and keep costs low.
 
Just ordered and recieved the skfpart #BR930398 which is the only available skf part, but i dont see the abs plug on the the hub. Did i order the wrong one? I even specified to rockauto to verify it was the right part?
 
Hey everyone,

Bumping up this thread for some help here. Replacing the rear wheel bearings on a 2004 Tiburon GT. Passenger side was fine no problems with OEM bearing 52710 2C105. Drivers side however, does not fit and it seems there are others that have had this issue, but I never saw a correct part number in the other threads to order. I have also tried Beck Arnley 051-6104. All these bearings have the same issue. The new bearing is 42mm while the original is 44mm. This means the nut/tonque washer stops on the spindle, and not touching the bearing face. My dealership is clueless, and I am currently without a car and don't particularly want to buy a fourth useless bearing and don't have access to make my own washer. Can any one help me out with this? Most of the users that have posted about this issue are no longer on the boards. HELP! :)
 
There is a recent thread (last 4 days?) with a McMaster-Carr PN for shims..... may have been for the front bearings, but I would get dimensions & check McMaster......

DON'T look up washers, look up "shims"......
 
I did see this thread, however I was hoping for an actual bearing with the correct 44mm instead of the 42 to go with that I could reference my stupid dealership to. If I can't prove these bearings are incorrect, I will be on the hook for the price of all of them. I will use the shim idea if I don't have any other option, so thanks for the reference!

Does anyone know of a guaranteed bearing with the 44mm bearing?

Thanks guys
 
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