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So, you're saying the same PN fits on one side, but is too short on the other side?

Did the old bearings have different PN's on the bearing itself? I realize the old bearings are likely gone/thrown out by now.
Do the new bearings have the same PN on them? Trying to rule out a wrong bearing was in a box/bag.

What's the chance the car was damaged at some point and a stub axle from a different year/model car was installed (that would need a different bearing)?

With my "plant maintenance" background, I may possibly get the PN of the bearing, then go to an industrial parts supplier and look up a different bearing, same basic spec's but a longer bore dimension.
That PN would likely NOT match to a dealer PN though.
 
moog 512428 abs
moog 512429 non-abs

skf br930398 abs
skf br930399 non-abs
Great info, not likely to cross to a dealer PN........
 
Hey Charlie,

Yup, exactly what I am saying. I was proactively replacing both rear bearings and bought two of the same ones. First I went with Beck Arnley, and tried only on the affected spindle. I figured with it being aftermarket, they were incorrect, and went to the dealership, and bought two from there. Same issue, but only on the drivers side rear. Seems that spindle is 44 mm shoulder to shoulder. However, the passenger side, bolted right up. The old bearing from the drivers side spindle is also 44mm. I can't fathom how at one time there was a matching bearing which fits this spindle, but now they don't have one?!

At the moment the dealership has the old hub because they were "going to get to the bottom of it" however their best response was there was a problem with the spindle during manufacture, and asked that I measure the spindle..crazy how it matches the dimensions of the hub they have... lol


I know it wasn't in an accident as I bought it off the lot with 23km, and have not had any accidents.
I was thinking maybe they installed a 2003 spindle and bearing on this side during initial build, or maybe an elantra spindle/bearing, however without any way to see the dimensions of each, I can't verify this.

h8, are those part numbers ones that worked on your car? or did you just stick with the shims? I am currently sitting with at least one and possibly 3 bearings I may or may not be able to return, so I am really gun shy at buying a new bearing without confirmation of the bearing dimensions. Maybe I will try to email them.

Thanks for the info guys.



So, you're saying the same PN fits on one side, but is too short on the other side?

Did the old bearings have different PN's on the bearing itself? I realize the old bearings are likely gone/thrown out by now.
Do the new bearings have the same PN on them? Trying to rule out a wrong bearing was in a box/bag.

What's the chance the car was damaged at some point and a stub axle from a different year/model car was installed (that would need a different bearing)?

With my "plant maintenance" background, I may possibly get the PN of the bearing, then go to an industrial parts supplier and look up a different bearing, same basic spec's but a longer bore dimension.
That PN would likely NOT match to a dealer PN though.
 
Hey Charlie,

Yup, exactly what I am saying. I was proactively replacing both rear bearings and bought two of the same ones. First I went with Beck Arnley, and tried only on the affected spindle. I figured with it being aftermarket, they were incorrect, and went to the dealership, and bought two from there. Same issue, but only on the drivers side rear. Seems that spindle is 44 mm shoulder to shoulder. However, the passenger side, bolted right up. The old bearing from the drivers side spindle is also 44mm. I can't fathom how at one time there was a matching bearing which fits this spindle, but now they don't have one?!

At the moment the dealership has the old hub because they were "going to get to the bottom of it" however their best response was there was a problem with the spindle during manufacture, and asked that I measure the spindle..crazy how it matches the dimensions of the hub they have... lol


I know it wasn't in an accident as I bought it off the lot with 23km, and have not had any accidents.
I was thinking maybe they installed a 2003 spindle and bearing on this side during initial build, or maybe an elantra spindle/bearing, however without any way to see the dimensions of each, I can't verify this.

h8, are those part numbers ones that worked on your car? or did you just stick with the shims? I am currently sitting with at least one and possibly 3 bearings I may or may not be able to return, so I am really gun shy at buying a new bearing without confirmation of the bearing dimensions. Maybe I will try to email them.

Thanks for the info guys.
I don't have time right this minute, but a quick check would be to go to RockAuto, look up the bearing and see what years/models have the same one. You could also look for some other Hyundai models/years to see what they use.
Still hard to match "industry PN's" to aftermarket PN's though.
 
Here's something interesting....

My passenger hub has been making horrible noises for the last few weeks and seeing that it's been nearly two years since installing those hubs with the narrow bearings, I thought I would just replace both sides.

I ordered two Precision Bearing 512428 hubs from Amazon for $42 each. These have the same part number as the MOOG hubs. I decided to take a chance on these because of Amazons return policy and the fact I didn't want to pay over twice the price for MOOG or SKF.

After taking the passenger side hub off it looked like the bearings took a crap because water was getting inside; water literally poured out when I took the dust cap off. When I did them last time I used RTV to seal the drivers side dust cap but forgot to do the passenger side.

I put the new passenger side hub on, torqued up the nut, and it was nice and tight without the need for the shim.

Now, even though the drivers side still felt good and didn't have any play, I thought I would just replace it anyway with a hub that wouldn't need shimmed. After trying to torque up the nut I noticed it had play just like the old hubs and I could see that the outer race was more sunk in than the other side.

I decided to put the old hub back on with the shim and I'm sending this one back to Amazon (thanks Prime free returns!).

So anyway, the whole point here is that you can't even trust the same part number from the same brand. These were identical hubs with the exact same numbers etched into the hub face. I did notice that the one that didn't fit looked older than the other. The box was more beat up like it had lived longer in the warehouse and the grease was also different (yellowish vs red for the one that fit).
 
So I need to do my Rear Driver Side Hub / Wheel Bearing. Can someone please confirm the correct part numbers that work without the shims? I just want to do this once. Thank you in advance.
 
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

I am hoping this is the correct place for this as I didn't want to start a new thread for something that already existed.

My boyfriend and I have been attempting to replace the drivers side rear hub assembly and every time we have a wobble once the new assembly is installed and torqued down. We have tried 3 different assembly's and they are wobble. We put the old assembly back and and its tight with no wobble.Can anyone tell me how to fix this? Or could it be that we are using crappy parts? One assembly was AutoZone and the other was Advanced Auto. I am frustrated that nothing seems to fit correctly and am afraid to use the new wobbly assembly.
Some of these hubs are built to the wrong specs, but the cheapest fix is to call McMasters-Carr and ask them for shims with this part number: 98089A420. There are ten in a bag, and you may need two per side to cure the end float. Best part: $8.69. They deal with the public as well as businesses, and no order is too small. These are really nice folks. It may stall your repair by a couple of days, but this beats returning parts and searching for hubs with no end float. I don't think it matters what brand they are. I have seen the same hub either fit perfectly or have a wad of end float.
 
Re: DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

hmm I have an 08 GS and litterally just ordered a Timkin HA590200...
did anyone have any fitment issues with this with an 07/08? or were pple with fitment issues the 03's? LMK :) planning on doing this this weekend if it comes in this week..
See my reply to geishagirl. The whole (simple) work-around is detailed there.
 
I note the sizes of the shims you mention. My 08 SE used shims that were 42x2x55, much bigger than the shims at the end of the link you sent. It will cost you a couple of days, but measure the spindle and be sure the shim is going to fit behind the tongue washer. It may take more than one shim to get rid of the end float, which is very dangerous at highway speeds.
 
I realize this is an old thread, but is their any chance of getting the broken images fixed?
Doubt it, they are not hosted here. Original poster has not been on in about 2 years.
 
OK, some basics.

Jack up the rear corner, support it, remove wheel, compress brake pads a bit, remove 2 bolts holding the caliper mounting bracket to knuckle, remove caliper and bracket, remove axle nut dust cap (large channel locks will do it or use described method), unstake axle nut, remove axle nut, pull hub/ bearing assembly off, install new parts, reassemble.

A flat washer is a flat washer, reuse it.
The axle nut "could" be reused, but you need a good spot in the thin frontal rim to restake it to the axle so it does not loosen.
There are 2 potential bearings, one is 42mm deep, one is 44mm deep. Get the 44mm deep one, it will work in all applications.
If you need a long one and get a short one, you will need the referenced shims to get the proper preload on the bearing.
The axle nut torque determines the preload in the bearing. Don't just "make it tight", torque it.
A flat washer is a flat piece of steel, unless you mangle the crap out of it, reuse it.
If you don't know if you have ABS, looking under the hood on passengers side, do you have a "brick" about 8" cube with a bunch of 1/4" steel lines going to it? If you do, you likely have ABS, get the right part. It will have a tone ring for the wheel speed sensor attached.
Using a ABS part in a non ABS car would likely work, the part just costs a bit more. Using a non ABS part in an ABS car will create issues.

To check bearing dimension, pull up the part on RockAuto, then click on "info", most parts will give the dimensions. Looks like Moog and SKF are,correct.
 
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I tried the Master Pro after trying several others, nothing fit.

Finally found this thread! Got the Moog 512428 from Rockauto, fit perfectly, 2008 Hyundai tiburon

Oreilly guy said you can also get the Precision 512428 from Oreilly, MOOG makes Precision.
 
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