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Replacing Rear Calipers

DIY: 
12K views 0 replies 1 participant last post by  BasiC 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello guys,

So yesterday I had planned to paint my rear calipers red, as the stock front ones are already red and I wanted my car to look a little better. Turns out my rear passenger side caliper was defective (my handbrake wouldn't work and I've had this same caliper causing my pads to stick on the rotor this summer).

Since I've been around reading about all of your ideas and even got some help with my dome lights problem, I thought I could use the opportunity to write a DIY on changing the calipers. So here it goes, just bare with me, this is still my first DIY !

Tools you will need :
Ratchet with 14 and 12 mm sockets
Oil pan or some plastic container to keeps brake fluid off your floor
Ratchet or impact gun with 21 mm sockets (if you have the same wheels as I do)
Metric key 10 or 11 mm depending on the specific caliper you have (my two new ones even had different sizes).
Note. All caliper bolts are 14 mm except the 12mm for the brake fluid line and 10 or 11 mm for the bleed cap. 21mm is for taking off your wheels.

Step 1
First step will obviously be to remove your wheels. Also, make sure your handbrake is released. Otherwise, you may have trouble pulling the caliper out.

Step 2
You will need to remove the bolt holding the parking brake line in place and loosen the two bolts holding the caliper. The parking brake line bolt is pointed by the first arrow on the picture, while the bolt holding the caliper is pointed by arrow number 2. The second bolt holding the caliper is in the on the opposite side of the caliper (you need to access it from the bottom).

Loosing the bold on the left side of the second one and corresponding one ath the bottom of the caliper is usually not necessary, but sometime it can help if you're having trouble pulling the caliper out at the end.


Step 3
You should be able to unpin the handbrake line from the spring lever (circled in this pic).


Step 4
Before removing the bold holding the brake fluid line on, you should make sure to put your plastic container under your workspace. Now you may remove the bolt. There will not be a lot of liquid, but DO NOT TOUCH YOUR PAINT when you have brake fluid on your hands as it may discolor it.

Step 5
Now you may completely remove the bolts holding the caliper (from step 2) and slide it towards the front of your car to take it off.


Step 6
You are now ready to prep your new calipers. Note that I previously painted the ones I got from the store as the first purpose of my day was to paint the ones I had on. Make sure you put the metal brackets on if they were in a plastic bag like mine were. This should be a simple "push in place" thing to do. (Sorry if the first pic is blurry, I didn't realize when I took it and now my calipers are on...)



Step 7
I prefer to put my calipers on in two parts. Begin by bolting on the smaller part of the caliper (you will need to use the two bolts in arrow #2 from step 2). You may then put your brake pads on.


Step 8
Now you may put the other part of your caliper on. and bolt it on to the smaller part (you may have to push on the sliders ("bolts" that have rubber around them). Then you can screw you brake fluid hose back on. Your caliper should have been sold with two metal washers. One is to go between the bolt's head and the hose ring and the other between the hose ring and the caliper. Make sure that your old washers are not stuck to the bolt or the hose ring. If they are, use a flat screwdriver to take them out and use the new ones. Finally you may pin back the handbrake line to the spring lever (pic from step 3) and bolt the handbrake line bracket back on the caliper.


Step 9
Before you put your wheels back on, you will need to bleed your brake lines. In order to do this, you will have to open up the brake fluid reservoir (small white box on driver side, next to the air intake) and make sure it is filled properly. *DO NOT PUT THE CAP BACK ON YET* Then, get your buddy, girlfriend, father or anyone to pump up the brakes. Once the person has pumped a few times (5-6 times is usually right), ask him/her to hold the brakes to the ground. While they hold the brakes, you will need to unscrew (use the metric keys so you can see the fluid better) the bleed cap a little. Air should be coming out and then you should only see liquid coming out. While the liquid is still coming out, you need to screw the cap back on. You may have to ask the person to repeat the process a few times. I sometimes have trouble being sure the air is all out when there is a lot. If you're not sure, repeat the pumping and make sure to only open the cap a little, then screw it back on.

If the person stops pushing the brakes before you screw the cap on, air will get it and your brakes won't work properly. Once you have bled once of your two brake lines, make sure to add some brake fluid and do the other one. Once both lines are done, add up some fluid to the specified level.

Picture below points out the cap I'm talking about.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Step 10
Put your wheels back on and test-drive. I suggest you go very slow at first. Make sure your car is braking properly.

Added notes :
If your pedal goes to the floor, then you have air in the system and you should go back to bleeding the brake lines. Also, you make absolutely sure that you don't drain the whole brake fluid out. If you do, you will have to bleed all four brake lines, plus you may get other trouble with the master cylinder.

Alright guys, I hope you enjoyed my first DIY and remember you are doing this at your own risks. If you are unsure about this procedure, please don't take any chances and stay safe.
 
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