Resurrecting a Silver Shark

Welcome back to the forums! Looks like you got some work ahead of you but it could be much much worse. For an OEM+ car well within your budget I would recommend the following:

-True CAI from a big name or even ebay with an upgraded cone filter and silicone couplers is sufficient
-Hand ported upper and lower intake manifolds. 40mm diameter runners are the spec for NGMs ported intakes.
-ebay SSA clone headers flow good enough for an N/A car. Wrap them to keep engine bay temps down and prevent your crank sensor from melting.
-Aluminum flywheel with an aggressive clutch like a "stage 2" clutch from a reputable brand like Clutchmasters, SPEC, ACT etc etc.
-05 XG350 front BBK upgrade on a budget. Rear brakes don't really need upgrading. Use Mando brand front calipers for best results. The difference in braking power is night and day.
-Budget coilovers from Racelands or KYB struts with Eibach springs for street use. Otherwise BC coilovers for track use.
-Moog problem solver bushings for your front lower control arm rearward bushings. These are a huge improvement over the OEM style rubber bushings.
-BRD yellow poly motor mount inserts. The red compound seems too soft and the black compound is as sturdy as NGM's billet mount inserts.
-Reflashed ECU for I/H/E to broaden your power band and raise your rev limiter. Plus many other features.

Hyundaipartsdeal.com is a legit site but prices are really up there. I've ordered a few parts there that I couldn't find anywhere else. It's a great resource to find part numbers to cross reference elsewhere like RockAuto, ebay or Amazon. We typically use a guy named Albert Hwang from the Facebook groups for OEM parts. He can usually beat the OEM prices at those other sites and shipping in the states is usually within 3 days.

SwampRabbit said:

I sorta wish I got an Alpine or NGM SC years ago, since it’s practically near impossible to go that route now in any semi-fast method these days.

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You'll need to get on the facebook groups to find yourself a supercharger kit. That's the most active community currently and they do appear on the marketplace every few weeks. If you find one, I can help you with your supercharger stage 0/1 to stage 2 journey. The OEM block will take stage 2 no problem as long as you are mindful of your AFRs and keep an eye on your engines vitals all the time.

SwampRabbit said:

It’s funny you brought up Mando, I did find this site a few weeks back, looks useful in some model part applicability swap checking.
Mando MyCarParts

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Mando is an OEM manufacturer for Hyundai/Kia along with Siemens, NTK and sometimes Denso. (There are a couple of electrical components that are Bosch but don't trust Bosch for your O2 sensors or spark plugs!)

SwampRabbit said:

I’ve actually been looking at struts and springs, the KYB and Eibach in fact. I don’t like a big drop so that pairing seems like it might fit the bill, and keep the short term budget in reach. If the car is allowed to stay I’ve already marked the BC coilovers as the ones I want.

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I believe I paid $380 in total for my KYB/Eibach combo at a time when the springs were on sale direct from Eibach. The ride height is streetable and isn't too low for the Seattle streets. Sometimes it's an issue parking head first against curbs but that's why we hard park our cars instead! Here's a pic of mine after the struts and springs have settled on OEM wheels and tire size (although the Achilles ATR Sport 2 tires seem to be slightly larger than advertised):

SwampRabbit said:

I’ve been see you post about the Moog problem solver bushings, can you provide a part number or link?
These really interest me as an upgrade at the stage I’m at.

Same goes for the BRD yellow poly motor mount inserts, part number or link please.

And if you have a recommendation on actual motor and tranny mounts, that would be great too.
Ones that will help future proof any N/A or stage0 SC plans down the road.

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Moog part number for the problem solver is K201658. You'll need a press to punch out the old ones and press in the new ones. I find it's easiest to cut out the rubber of the old bushing, then carefully cut the steel sleeve to break it out. Then press in the new one flush with the top of the lower control arm.

Both front and rear mounts that BRD makes are technically transmission mounts, but the top driver side transmission mount BRD can also make you. For all three trans mounts it's about $300. The Yellows are a nice middle ground between the reds and the blacks. BRD has a website but he does business over Facebook primarily:

BRD yellow mounts are good for power up through the 800s according BRD. (He makes a similar claim about the reds holding power up into the 400s but they are simply too soft in my opinion.)



For the passenger side motor mount, it's a specialty mount that nobody makes in the aftermarket. It's best to stick to OEM on that mount. Most of the work is done by the 3 transmission mounts anyway so this is a non-critical mount for engine roll.

SwampRabbit said:

Do you rub at all with the wheel completely turned? Or maybe in a turn with a good dip?
Thats my biggest concern. A lot of the photos I’ve seen with this set up look pretty tight. We have some fun winding roads here in PA and I’d like to not rip the wheel well plastic off or mess up a fender or tire.

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No rubbing even in the hardest cornering. I could probably add another 10mm on front and 15mm on rear before rubbing against the fenders. If I roll my fenders I would be able to get about 15mm on front and 20mm in rear.

SwampRabbit said:

Have you upgraded your rear sway bar?
Asking cause I didn’t see that in your Member Profile, my only concern with the KYBs is the tab breaking if I upgrade the sway bar.

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Not yet. This is something I plan to do but it's very expensive seeing as how there's only 2-3 brands on the market currently. I wouldn't be bothered by using the KYB struts with a stiffer rear bar either. I don't believe it would break so easily. The KYBs are pretty strong. The stiffer rear bar will promote less understeer because it allows the rear to slide out a little bit more.

SwampRabbit said:

Great, thanks for that.
Quick random question on that, doesn’t scare me to do it, but by any chance do you know/think a new MOOG lower control arm comes with that already installed?

Asking cause while mine are in pretty good shape for their age, but if I’m gonna go through the trouble, I was debating on killing a few birds with one stone by either just getting new MOOG control arms or something like this kit
Tiburon 03-06 Control Arm Ball Joint Tie Rods Sway Bar Link Suspension Kit 8PCS

If the MOOG lower control arms are a go, I might get different tie rods and sway bar links if there are better options than what comes with that kit, still reading up on suspension stuff.

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No the MOOG LCAs come with their cheaper rubber variant. The part number I provided is more like a large heim joint rather than a rubber bushing. If you look at the pictures on the MOOG LCAs you can see they have the rubber style bushing:

I opted to rebuild my OEM LCAs just so I can get the upgraded rearward bushing. Another option is that you could buy the MOOG LCAs and upgrade them while you drive around on your original LCAs. It would cost you upwards of $120 per LCA plus your labor to complete which isn't too bad.

The kit you linked looks good except it doesn't have the upgraded bushing. If you upgraded those with the problem solver bushing that would only be about $220 per LCA plus your labor. Only issue is that it comes with tabs on the LCA which are meant for the Elantra. You can cut those off no problem and it should work with the Tiburon.

Currently I'm using OEM style end links and tie rods from Mevotech which are on par with MOOG for a little less money. I don't see a point in upgrading either of those until I'm on adjustable coilovers. At this point if something were to break my end links would be the first to go instead of my strut housing mounting tabs. If you did want to upgrade to stronger adjustable end links, SuperPro and Whiteline have some on the market. Here's both the front and rear set: (Looks like the SuperPro fronts are sold out though)

Holy sh*t I can't believe the price of Borla went up to $1300! When I picked up my Borla catback about 3 years ago during peak COVID it was only $600 through a sale. Man times have changed...


If I had known they were that much I would have tried steering you another direction to build an equivalent system for a fraction of the price. Either way I think you'll be really happy with that catback. It's really a mature sounding catback compared to some of the others that were available at the time. My box was beat up pretty good too but they do a great job wrapping the important bits. The rear mufflers and exhaust tips should be wrapped really well in bubble wrap if my memory serves me.

Sorry to hear that! I bought my Eibach springs in 2020 from Eibach direct but I believe it came from a US based warehouse so shipping was minimal. I had no idea they were discontinued or that they are only available from Germany in 2023. You should definitely "spring" for adjustable coilovers at this stage since the price difference is minimal.