To keep the seatbelts from getting sucked into the retractors, you can use Vise Grips. Before you ever unbolt the retractors, pull the seatbelt out at least a foot (to play it on the safe side), then clamp a set of Vise Grips (or similar apparatus), and it'll keep the belt from getting sucked in.
as far as the front strut goes. i know the RRM bolts on to one bolt, but i've seen other struts that bolt on to all three....is this an advantage over the RRM somehow?
I know this is probably a dumb question, but will installing front and rear strut bars void any type of warranty on the car? and another thing, is there any difference or advantage in using certain brands or types of strut bars over others?
I have an I4 question for the RRM front strut bar, since I don't have any plastic covers that the V6's have, that means I can just bolt them up straight on right?
Just a TIP, If you go the way of removing the rear seatbelt retractors .....DO NOT let the seatbelts move into the retractors more than where they would be when mounted. Once the belts go past the brake inside the retractors they will not release. I found this out the hard way and had to have my dealership take apart my backseat and rear seatbelt retractors. ....this cost me $
Well I guess I should have read further down in this DIY, because I let the seat belts retract back on the passenger side. Does anyone know how to release the locking mechanism? I do not want to have to take it to the dealer. I'll check the Hyundai Service Web site also.
Well I guess I should have read further down in this DIY, because I let the seat belts retract back on the passenger side. Does anyone know how to release the locking mechanism? I do not want to have to take it to the dealer. I'll check the Hyundai Service Web site also.
Hey thanks for the tip I got them both retracted, pretty easy after I just stopped swearing. Anyway here's a detail of my ARK rear strut bar. I used a 1 3/4" black desk gromment for to finish the trim and cut a 2" in black rubber washer tand placed it in back of the grommet o block of any light.
Hey thanks for the tip I got them both retracted, pretty easy after I just stopped swearing. Anyway here's a detail of my ARK rear strut bar. I used a 1 3/4" black desk gromment for to finish the trim and cut a 2" in black rubber washer tand placed it in back of the grommet o block of any light.
Awww, your ice scrapper looks so cute jammed in next to your sub. =)
This DIY is excellent. I don't know if I'll have the money to pick up the front and rear at the same time, but it's definitely happening soon with the front.
Go buy one... you can get the cheapest one to be found and it will do a nice job as the panel cuts easy. Trying to use anything else... well, it will probably look like **** when done.
question for the rear bar, at the closest point, how far away is it from the back of the seat?
i have 2 amps and a cap mounted on the back of my rear seats, and i want a rrm rear strut bar, but i dont know if its gonna fit with my equipment in there.
If you have a torque wrench , highly recomended, you set the wrench to about 34 ft pounds and keep tightening the nuts til you hit that much on it. It basically means how tight you are making the nut.
I went to Lowes to get a circle saw, and, I guess the only kind they make is the kind that goes on the end of a drill? I don't have a drill, so if there's another kind that doesn't require power tools, that would be nice.
Just installed both. You do NOT need to take off the rear seatbelt reactors. My extension and ratchet did just fine. The front took me 5 minutes, the rear with cutting and moving the sub probably took 20-30 minutes at the max.
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