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SC install help!

4K views 74 replies 14 participants last post by  05gttibby 
#1 ·
#4 ·
Another question i have.

Where exactly do i have to connect the icebox (cable) to the fuse box? Which cable in the fuse box
 
#6 ·
do I have to cut a little the yellow wire and then wrap the icebox cable around the exposed wire? In the install video he uses like a clip,.
 
#10 ·
just for knowledge

what does the connection from the boost accutator to the mp 62 blower does?

ps. already assembled and ready to be installed :)
 
#13 · (Edited)
12pm started with the install.

Does the brake booster hose goes on the plennum next to the pcv line? cant see clearly on video install.

Ps. Already installed the sc. Things left are the extension of the ekectrical components and the vacuum lines
 
#14 ·
another question.

is there a specific wide for the vacuum line that goes from the mp62 to the manifold?
 
#16 ·
"PDF" "HHOP", can u be a little more specific? thanks!

I think i need to put it next to the pcv hose because there are 2 holes in the plenum, the pcv and another one, but wanna make sure it is the correct connection.
 
#17 ·
Ok, let me set the record straight for the plumbing of the vacuum lines....

on the plenum (between the blower and throttle body) goes the brake booster line and purge control solenoid valve (or just put it back on the stock throttle body nipple).

on the manifold (between the blower and the engine), goes the fpr (if your car is 03 or 04), the boost vac. line for a gauge, and the boost actuator cannister line.

that is where the bare minimum should go....
 
#18 · (Edited)
pcv #1
break booster #2

this is what I have. is that the correct ways? (pair, 1 with 1 and 2 with 2) pcv and break booster to the plenum and the TB hose where it was the first time (stock)

on the video it says that I need to cut the nipples from the TB (2 pic), is this necessary? it is touching the frame, or is it going to touch it with the vibrations? I have solid MM.
 
#22 ·
NEED HELP ASAP!!

Cant hear the SC!! (the whine) i dont think im boosting All hoses connected with no leak.
 
#26 ·
i have headers, cai and crank pulley that im trying to remove to put the oem back but it wont let go. Ikeep pulling but it moving the part inside to the outside
 
#27 ·
Well, I still say heater hoses....even if they don't touch when you sit at idle, the engine moves when you accelerate and then the actuator moves closer to the hoses....happened to me at least and I even trimmed them like I was supposed to, my problem was 2 things. First I trimmed them too conservatively (I trimmed exactly 1 inch which wasn't enough for me) , second I was on stock motor mounts which caused the engine to move more than desired. It looked ok when it was just sitting there at idle, but I got no boost at acceleration.

I trimmed the hoses even more, then all of a sudden I got boost. I also upgraded the front/rear motor mounts just to be safe. Then again I am stage 2, but I would think that stock MM's have a hard time keeping things in place with a sniper as well.

It's like in the other thread where the guy had issues with a cut power steering hose.....check, double check....and then check again. ;)

Since you have a NGM S/C setup and I have an Alpine I don't know if the same things apply - but I would still bet on the heater hoses......that or the boost actuator isn't working/hooked up correctly. Since you had some questions regarding the routing of hoses etc it might be that as well....

Maybe it is working and you just can't hear the whine as brownnote said...do you feel any difference?
Did you trim the heater hoses at all, or is this step not required for the NGM setup?
 
#28 ·
if the acutator is working should i see the metal tube move when the car accelerate? Is there a way to know if it working?

drove the car and is kinda difficult to notice any difference.
 
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