[Nappy]

The car lives in Massachusetts so naturally the underbody is rusted to hell should I just replace the whole exhaust. Any other solutions that don’t involve welding (I can’t weld and I can’t get it to a shop to get it on a lift)

 

[peachferrari]

I can't tell exactly what we're looking at here, but if the exhaust is rusting out you're best off replacing it. Welding can only do so much with failing metal. Any exhaust shop should be able to replace it with custom pipes if needed---why can't you get it to a shop?

 

[Nappy]

I can't tell exactly what we're looking at here, but if the exhaust is rusting out you're best off replacing it. Welding can only do so much with failing metal. Any exhaust shop should be able to replace it with custom pipes if needed---why can't you get it to a shop?

It’s not registered atm and I tried to take it a mile up the road and it was like riding a pissed off horse (bucking revving up excessively and wouldn’t go past like 20/25

 

[chase206]

The section of pipe you have pictured there looks like the connection by the rear wheels. This is far enough downstream that it won't affect how the engine runs so you likely have other issues to sort out first. As always, check OBD2 for any diagnostic trouble codes and list all of the codes without their descriptions.

Are you noticing an RPM limit at 3000 or 4000-5000 RPM? If so you likely have a fault with your crank angle sensor or front right wheel speed sensor. Our ECU will enable a lower rev limiter when either of those sensors are at fault. Trust only OEM or OEM acceptable brands like Hyundai, Siemens, NTK, Mando or Denso. All other brands are junk and should be thrown into the trash.

 

[Charlie-III]

A short term solution is to get a piece of pipe that fits inside the broken ends. Then you can drill a few holes from the side on either side of the break and run sheetmetal screws to hold it together. Basically an internal splint.
You can get the pipe at most auto parts places.

Now, to your drivability issue, is this an AT or MT? If a MT, is it a case of in gear, you give it gas and the engine revs up but the car really won't accelerate? If so, sounds like a slipping clutch.
How long have you owned it?

 

[Nappy]

A short term solution is to get a piece of pipe that fits inside the broken ends. Then you can drill a few holes from the side on either side of the break and run sheetmetal screws to hold it together. Basically an internal splint.
You can get the pipe at most auto parts places.

Now, to your drivability issue, is this an AT or MT? If a MT, is it a case of in gear, you give it gas and the engine revs up but the car really won't accelerate? If so, sounds like a slipping clutch.
How long have you owned it?

Yeah Im just gonna jb weld it till I replace it. It’s manual. I got it for “Christmas” so like 4 months but it mostly just sits due to the exhaust/bucking so I have to rev it to get it to stay idling. But yeah I’ll hit the gas it’ll rev up to like 6-7000 then I’ll shift and it’ll buck back rev up again and stay at 20-30 but like I said idk the last time it was on the road.

 

[Charlie-III]

JB weld can sorta fix a leak, I wouldn't expect it to hold those broken pipes together. A pipe sleeve bridges the break and is supported by pipe on each side.

 

[peachferrari]

Yeah you might get by with something like that for now, but as Chase said above you likely have other issues as a separated exhaust pipe is not going to cause the problems you mention.

 

[eagleprime]

As for replacing the exhaust, if I was you I'd start looking at getting some pipe and cheap eBay "sport mufflers". Or you could try to order a full kit; I got a really good deal on this set from Ulter-Sport (a Polish shop). All you'd need to do is to replace a length of the old rusted pipe and get a new flange welded; use the old pipe for reference.

111-302/17-2 - HYUNDAI COUPE typ GK 2002-2006 COUPE 2,7i V6 - Dedicated Products - Dedicated Products - Shop - Ulter Sport

But yes, do figure out the other major issues first.