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Should I weld this replace it or does anybody have a solution

557 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  eagleprime
The car lives in Massachusetts so naturally the underbody is rusted to hell should I just replace the whole exhaust. Any other solutions that don’t involve welding (I can’t weld and I can’t get it to a shop to get it on a lift)
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I can't tell exactly what we're looking at here, but if the exhaust is rusting out you're best off replacing it. Welding can only do so much with failing metal. Any exhaust shop should be able to replace it with custom pipes if needed---why can't you get it to a shop?
It’s not registered atm and I tried to take it a mile up the road and it was like riding a pissed off horse (bucking revving up excessively and wouldn’t go past like 20/25
A short term solution is to get a piece of pipe that fits inside the broken ends. Then you can drill a few holes from the side on either side of the break and run sheetmetal screws to hold it together. Basically an internal splint.
You can get the pipe at most auto parts places.

Now, to your drivability issue, is this an AT or MT? If a MT, is it a case of in gear, you give it gas and the engine revs up but the car really won't accelerate? If so, sounds like a slipping clutch.
How long have you owned it?
Yeah Im just gonna jb weld it till I replace it. It’s manual. I got it for “Christmas” so like 4 months but it mostly just sits due to the exhaust/bucking so I have to rev it to get it to stay idling. But yeah I’ll hit the gas it’ll rev up to like 6-7000 then I’ll shift and it’ll buck back rev up again and stay at 20-30 but like I said idk the last time it was on the road.
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