2008 Hyundai tiburon GT V6 So my snsr fuse blew like 5 times in 30 minutes and car engine turns off and here’s a picture of a wiring connector that broke and is not connected.... it’s part of the wiring harnesses that splits to the oxygen sensor .......... anyone got a way to fix this. Is it possible to strip both ends of each wire and wire them together or what to do.... here’s a picture of the broken wire connector and the overview
Hey man yeah those always break it’s for your ac to turn it on and off... yeah just strip the wires and put them together and you’ll be good... i highly doubt that’s causing your sensor fuse to blow... I’d check some over connectors and make sure... see if you have any engine codes it might help, if it fixes your problem then that’s great you dodged a bit of a bullet... if not you might need to change a bad sensor that’s shorting, from what I know your sensor fuse goes to your crank, cam, knock, sensor and I think your maf and throttle sensors, I could be wrong tho I’d have to check... but yeah I’m pretty sure it doesn’t go to your ac, that’s your ac fuse...
Well I got new long tube headers installed and when that wire isn’t touching the car don’t crank ... but when that broken wire do touch it cranks right up.. and there’s no crank engine light unless that wire is not connected....... when they was installing the headers they had to remove the ac so I’m pretty sure that wire is causing the fuse to blow because that same wire is harnessed into the oxygen sensor and all other sensors in that harness @2tibs
I don't believe that's your only problem. Your car should start without that harness plugged in. In fact your car should start without your O2s plugged in, it will just run very rough on a default air and fuel model. Have you checked all of your grounds? Is the firewall to intake manifold ground securely attached? Is the ground wire from your ignition coil harness securely screwed into the mount plate just above the coils?
It sounds like you have a lot of wiring gremlins that need to be traced out and tested by a mechanic. There's only so much we can do over the internet. Without having physical access to your car I can't troubleshoot it personally.
Yeah seems like another issure... I’ve had that wire broken for over a year with no problem except my ac didn’t work... reconnected it and it worked fine... I agree with chase check everything... you could try hooking up a volts meter and check all your sensors, make sure they are getting the 5v constant and proper ground, also each sensor has a certain ohms reading and if one has little to no resistance it could be that sensor, or maybe there could be a short somewhere in the line
What all could they have unplugged if they was just installing headers and had to remove the ac compressor to put the headers in and everything looks connected.... what if I put a higher amp fuse just to get it to the mechanic, would that work? Currently is a 10A @chase206@2tibs
You blow a fuse when you're already running and add a little throttle? How fast are you going when it blows? I would check any harnesses behind the engine against the firewall if your engine mounts are loose enough for the engine to rock back and forth. Otherwise maybe your MAF sensor wire is pulled too tight and it's grounding against the master brake cylinder? You have a CAI if I remember correctly and those often pull the MAF harness too tight.
The SNSR fuse blowing indicates one of your sensors is grounding out through a broken or frayed wire. It's likely a sensor that is incorporated when the car switches from open loop to closed loop within the first 30-60 seconds the car is started. Check all of your sensor harnesses for a break or for resistance to ground. If you find a sensor wire (that isn't a sensor ground) with near 0 resistance you found the problem harness. I would look at anything around the headers like the O2 harnesses, crank position harness, A/C harness, alternator harness etc etc. Look for any points along the harness that may appear broken or frayed. Anything pinched between two metal parts.
DO NOT INCREASE THE SIZE OF THE FUSE. You will melt your harness and it won't be recoverable. This is basic automotive 101.
Checked all wires, everything looks great just that one wire that you can see exposed but I believe is connected to the ac compressor if that’s what that is..... and the o2 sensor is in a bit of a stretch but I don’t think that’s what cause it and I read that whole thread as well.... the only thing is possibly try to get it to mechanic @chase206
That O2 sensor on bank2 is in a weird place. Which brand headers did you buy? Normally the upstream O2 sensor is located on cylinder #2 with the SSA or SSA knockoffs. For it to move to Cyl #6 is unusual. Also it looks like the pigtail coming out of the bank2 upstream sensor is bent pretty hard. I would check to ensure that tight bend isn't the cause. Sharp bends in copper wire will fracture the metal and split the plastic sleeve. It may be grounding internally.
these obx headers are from eBay and these headers have two o2 sensor spots one near the bottom on a different cylinder and the one you see now is the other o2 censor....... and yeah that o2 sensor is really stretching .. if that’s the cause is it a way to extend that or what do I do with that/to that o2 sensor that’s causing it @chase206 ........ by the way no catalic converter so
You can buy 02 harness extenders or you can use one of the downstream sensors with the longer harness in place of the upstream sensor. Functionally they are the same, they just have different length harnesses.
Lol yeah but problem is already used all my 10 amp fuses to try it , and I used my audio fuse and I used my window diffroster fuse and all the spare fuses lol all I have is higher amp fuses now until I’m able to buy some .. @chase206
Like I said I’m pretty sure anything that runs on your snrs fuse is your throttle sensors cam and crank that’s it, you can follow the wires and that’s the only place they go... if your giving it throttle and it’s popping your fuse it’s probably either you mass air flow or throttle position sensor.. unplug your mass air flow and try to drive it.. it won’t run good but it will run... also don’t mat it quickly get onto it slowly, if it pops your fuse again it’s probably your tps