The "top blue" is the boot which keeps debris off the piston and seal. I recommend using them to prolong the life of the shock/strut.
The "bottom blue" is the bump stop. This is necessary if you don't want your spring binding when completely compressed (hitting a large bump). This can cause unfavorable handling characteristics. The bump stop absorbs some compression prior to the coil binding. This effectively reducing the chance of loosing contact with the road from the car bouncing. Usually these are progressive instead of linear to allow better road contact, especially during cornering. I'm unsure if OEM bump stops are progressive, but something is better than nothing. I personally wouldn't want the outside front corner to bottom out without using a bump stop in a higher rate of speed turn.
The lower rubber spring isolator, "red", is fairly cheap. Check with the dealer as I can't remember a part number or the exact price..
I am replacing my struts and springs and have found the my new rear strut will not fit throught he "D" Shaped upper strut mount that we have in the rear. Has anyone else had this problem, is it common for the aftermarket struts to not have this "D" shaped thread? I dont see anything wrong with just drilling the hole in the strut mount, or filing it until the threads will fit through. Anyone have another idea?
Yeah these are a pain. You might be able to grab onto the back with some vice grips to keep it from moving while you get the nut loose. I was able to on mine when I did the sway bar only, though now I'll be replacing the rear struts so I decided to just get some new end links too.
When it stripped, I tried to hold it with vice grips, there was no luck. :/ It just spun. After a good 45 minutes I got it to hold and got the bolt off.
I replaced all 4 end links as well when I installed my coils.
When it stripped, I tried to hold it with vice grips, there was no luck. :/ It just spun. After a good 45 minutes I got it to hold and got the bolt off.
I replaced all 4 end links as well when I installed my coils.
noticed in the OP that HerbTea (aka the man) reused the OEM top center nut. HMAservice recommends using new ones every time they are removed. Noticed that the nuts that came with the kybs didn't thread one as easy as a typical nut. there was some plasticy resedue comeing out the top of the nut as i threaded it on. think that may have something to do with the 'self locking' nature of the nut.
I'd recommend you use the top nut that comes with your struts or buy new oem ones (the oem ones did look more beefy)
yall might be able to shed some light on my question, I have seen some people replace end links when dropping the car and other people have not. I will be putting on Dropzone springs (2 in drop) with KYB replacement struts. The previous owner never mentioned end links or camber kits. So as far as I know I will be good with what I have. Obviously I am a newb to the whole suspension side of things but figured I would jump into it anyways.
Guuuyzz, My Car Thumps when it hits bumps and potholes. I Changed the Shocks, and still same sound But Then again it came back on with the same Springs. Do You think I Should Change Em ? Theyre Not Cheapp
Guuuyzz, My Car Thumps when it hits bumps and potholes. I Changed the Shocks, and still same sound But Then again it came back on with the same Springs. Do You think I Should Change Em ? Theyre Not Cheapp
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