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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a hell of a time hooking everything up...

My question is; Does anyone know how to hook up the LEDs in the subwoofer? It says that I need a 12v input...so should I run another wire from my car battery? If I do need another wire, what kind do I need?

Thanks in adcance.
-Masato
 

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or you could split the power wire going to the amp? im not sure if this would work.. but maybe splice the wire for the remote turn-on lead going to your amp also... not sure bout it... but it is power...
 

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do you want the (1)leds to blink with the bass or (2)just turn on when the amp turns on

if (1)
what you can do is just connect the leds to the amp its self on the speaker terminals. the power coming out is going to be a/c and leds work on d/c. it will still work, but i highly suggeslt getting some resisters for those leds, cause they will blow quick.

if (2)
just connect the leds to remote and ground straight from the amp.
 

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I read something about wiring things with a relay to add more things to the remote wire if you add more than one thing and since led's don't draw that much current it should be fine just to tap into that but if you wanted to add more than that here is how you would do that:

There are two types of relays that are commonly used in 12-volt
automotive applications: Single-pole Double Throw (SPDT) relays, which
have 5 pins, and Single Pole, Single Throw (SPST) relays, which have 4
pins. Depending on the application, you can use either of these; for
remote turn-on leads (see Section 5.11), an SPST relay is fine,
SPDT relays are often used in alarm installations. Make sure that you
get a 12-volt relay - this specifies the voltage required to make the
relay "switch."

The connections on the two types of relays look like this:

SPST SPDT
===================== =====================
(87) (87)
+---------+ +---------+
| --- | | --- |
| | | |
(86) | | | | (85) (86) | | --- | | (87a - center)
| | | | (85 - right)
| | | | | |
+---------+ +---------+
(30) (30)

Pins 85 and 86 connect to the coil which causes the relay to switch.
On both relays, pins 30 and 87 are normally disconnected. When the
relay is activated (switched) pin 30 and 87 are then in contact. The
difference with the SPDT relay is that in the "normal" state, pins 30
and 87a are in contact.

To hook up a relay (either kind) for a remote turn on, make the
following connections:

*Pin 30*
+12 Volts (Battery +)

*Pin 87*
Amplifiers' remote turn-on terminal

*Pin 86*
Head unit remote turn-on lead

*Pin 85*
Ground

*Pin 87a*
No connection (SPDT only)


http://www.faqs.org/faqs/car-audio/part4/
Thats where the info is coming from its towards the middle of the page



PS. the scribble in the middle is a diagram of the relay and you can find it on the website where it is intact.
 

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i always just ran them off the remote and ground on the amp that was running the sub, that way the leds only come on when the amp is on
 

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I've been installing trunk styles and custom works for a while and as far as getting the LEDs to flash with the bass you can either plug up on the speaker terminals either on the box or at the amp.

ORRR... you can just get a LED that has a bass sensor that feels vibrations and makes the light flash. (not as great or reliable.)

I've realized a direct wire to the positive and negative terminals cause an easier approach. You don't have to mess with a tuning knob for a sensor and the bass sensitive LEDs tend to give up sooner.
Later.
 

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dandantiburonman said:
I've been installing trunk styles and custom works for a while and as far as getting the LEDs to flash with the bass you can either plug up on the speaker terminals either on the box or at the amp.

ORRR... you can just get a LED that has a bass sensor that feels vibrations and makes the light flash. (not as great or reliable.)

I've realized a direct wire to the positive and negative terminals cause an easier approach. You don't have to mess with a tuning knob for a sensor and the bass sensitive LEDs tend to give up sooner.Later.

That is because you are running A/C through the LED's. LED's work on D/C voltage. Also have you ever measure in A/C what the subs pull? usually areound 20-35 volts, and higher depending on the system.

As i mentioned above.... if you want your LED's to flash with the base, get a resistor, about 350-500 ohms or so, and they will last you about 15x longer than not having any at all.
 

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Yea... I dunno about pulling that many volts... your car would shut down if it took a voltage drop like that. They measure in watts and Ohms. As do light/light bulbs...

It will work either way but just direct wiring with the right lights will work fine. There are control boxes you can get that you'd just plug up on the remote and ground of the amp and it controls the flashing to the bass.

:3_winkthu
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright so I hooked up my LEDs to the remote switch of the amp. It's seems to work pretty well too! :) The lights even flash to the music! lol I'm not sure if it's suppost to do this yet...or if I really even want it to flash...But right now I'm pretty content. Thanks for the advice !

-Masato
 

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I've seen you post a few times Masato... I'm guessing you are pleased with the info you've gotten on here and glad to help if you need any more advice.
Later,
D
 
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