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Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

DIY: 
8K views 12 replies 9 participants last post by  peachferrari 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Alrighty,
I was switching back to stock from my quest coilovers when i realized the stock strut tab's were likely to bust with my rear eibach swaybar.
So, i decided to weld on a washer to help reinforce the strut tab's

What you need:
Heavy duty wire brush and or a wire brush wheel
Welder - mig is probably the best for this application
washers with the same ID as the hole for the swaybar links and similar size as the stock tabs
beer - aprox 1 x 6 pack should handle the job.
scantily clad women - optional

Give er:
remove the strut assembly from the vehicle and GENTLY mount it in the vice. you dont need to clamp the vice down verry hard, i would acctually suggest using a towel or rag or something else soft to hold the strut. if you pinch the outter casing.... it's all over. that being said it's pretty tough to pinch the outter casing.... but be carefull.
Now, using the wire brush or wire wheel remove the pain on the area you are about to weld on as show.



next use a bolt to hold the washer into strut tab for welding as shown and connect the negative from the welder to the bolt so you get good conductivity for the weld.



Now the time has come to start welding on your strut. you'll want to set the heat and the wire feed pretty low so you can take your time and do a good weld.
Now, lay a short bead along the edge of the washer. you need to go back and forth slowly between the washer and the strut tab. that way you get good penitration on both and therefore a good strong weld. ONLY WELD ABOUT AN INCH OR LESS.
your weld should look like this:



now stop the weld, turn the welder off and touch the strut tab where it attaches to the strut. it should be warm but not hot. if it's hot you've welded too long. now. consume beer 1 of 6.
once the strut has totally cooled, lay another bead along the top of the washer as shown:



now, consume beer # 2
once the strut has once again totally cooled.
lay 3rd and final bead #3 as shown



Now grab your other strut and repeat the process.

This process would also apply with the weld on strut tab pices made by one of the members here. you may however need to use more than 3 welds to keep the strut cool.

now, reinstall.
but dont drive till yer sober.
that is all
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

I reinforced my strut tabs by using metal epoxy to glue on grade-8 washers onto each side of the strut tab (2 grade-8 washers per strut tab, for a total of 4 washers for the rear-end of the car). This solution has surprisingly worked very well. After I drive the heck out of my car by taking it out on mountain roads (Mulholland, Glendora, etc) with hundreds of curves, the strut tabs are still holding up. BTW, I've set the Progress rear sway bar to its stiffest setting.
 
#5 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

I reinforced my strut tabs by using metal epoxy to glue on grade-8 washers onto each side of the strut tab (2 grade-8 washers per strut tab, for a total of 4 washers for the rear-end of the car). This solution has surprisingly worked very well. After I drive the heck out of my car by taking it out on mountain roads (Mulholland, Glendora, etc) with hundreds of curves, the strut tabs are still holding up. BTW, I've set the Progress rear sway bar to its stiffest setting.
Interesting. Do you have to remove the struts for this or were you able to do it while installed? I have the Ultraracing 23mm bar enroute.
 
#4 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

For the welders out there, a wet rag wrapped around the tube as close as possible to where you are welding is a real good safety measure, you REALLY don't want to heat up the tube enough to 'pop' it! I like the epoxy idea, wasn't sure if it would hold up, but there are some really amazing epoxies out there, just make sure you prep and use GOOD stuff.
 
#6 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

remove the strut assembly from the vehicle and GENTLY mount it in the vice.
that is all
Interesting. Do you have to remove the struts for this or were you able to do it while installed? I have the Ultraracing 23mm bar enroute.
Really?

Just remove it, it'll be easier to weld on. The only ***** on removing the struts is the endlinks, which you have to do anyways.
 
#7 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

Really?

Just remove it, it'll be easier to weld on. The only ***** on removing the struts is the endlinks, which you have to do anyways.
No, I was asking about his epoxy mod, I got the part about the welding mod. lol
 
#9 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

Here is my DIY:

Go to lowes, buy a 4pk of slightly oversize washers for around $1.50

Remove bolt, add 1 washer on each side of tab and bolt back together.

do the same for the other side.

done.

total cost $1.50

results: tab will not break again.
 
#10 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

So is this pretty much recommended whenever you replace the sway bar?
Will KYB struts have a strong enough tab already?
And....... Will using just some larger washers on each side of the tab be sufficient?
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

So is this pretty much recommended whenever you replace the sway bar?
Will KYB struts have a strong enough tab already?
And....... Will using just some larger washers on each side of the tab be sufficient?
KYB's will probably break too if you have an aftermarket rear sway bar on its stiff setting and you drive spiritedly often (e.g., curvaceous mountain roads).

Back when I used to have the OEM struts with the Progress rear sway bar, I used the epoxy grade-8 washer method and didn't have any bending or breaking issues despite months of mountain roads driving before I upgraded to coilovers.
 
#13 ·
Re: DIY: Swaybar Tab Reinforcement

I have heard of people still breaking off the tabs even with washers on there though. I just installed a rear sway bar, and if you pm Rickna he can get you some brackets that you can either weld on or do what I did and stick them on with some JB Weld--which seems to be working pretty well. Basically they double the thickness of the stock tabs (they cover the whole tab, not just the bolt hole).
 
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