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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After years of battling with the AEM F/IC 6 I decided enough was enough and decided to upgrade to a full standalone system.

Personally it was a great ECU to start with as i'd had no experience with ECU tuning and calibration and also very little experience with automotive wiring prior to this project.

My Electronics Package:
  • Link G4+ Thunder ECU
  • Coil-on-plug conversion for sequential injection (Toyota coils)
  • Injector Dynamic 850cc injectors (stock fuel rail)
  • Walbro 190LPH fuel pump (stock lines)
  • E-Throttle conversion with Bosch throttle body and pedal
  • MAC 4 port boost solenoid
  • Multiple EGT probes (pre / post turbo)
  • Dedicated LSU4.9 wideband + AEM Failsafe gauge
  • OEM knock, cam, crank, ECT sensors
  • OEM CVVT, 2 wire oil valve on the intake side
  • Motec fuel pressure, oil pressure and gearbox oil temp sensors
  • Launch control, traction control, flat foot shift, downshift blip and all that good stuff
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
In order to install the Link ECU I decided to remove the dashboard so I could easily access the wiring.
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Next, I started creating a mess in the engine bay... It's got to get worse before it gets better right?
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Next i started removing all the wiring that i was going to replace. The idea was to separate the engine wiring with chassis and ancillaries. I wanted to keep everything the car has as standard, A/C, ABS, VVT etc
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I removed all stock ECU wiring that was running to the engine bay and kept the wires i needed to integrate with the BCM, Dash, ABS etc
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My car didn't come with cruise control from the factory so I thought it would be a good time to retro-fit the OEM cruise control stalk and wire to the Link ECU.
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Nice job! I know exactly how much work that is and how important labeling is. Make sure you loom up everything when your done! I recommend a fireproof sheeth of some sort.
 

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This is great, I have been slowly sorting my G4+ Monsoon over the last few months after a shop let me down and left it in a mess, would you be open to sharing your config? I have been battling issues with the CVVT and the idle and it would be a massive help,

Awesome work, it puts my harness to shame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
This is great, I have been slowly sorting my G4+ Monsoon over the last few months after a shop let me down and left it in a mess, would you be open to sharing your config? I have been battling issues with the CVVT and the idle and it would be a massive help,

Awesome work, it puts my harness to shame.
Hey Ryan, I've just seen your message from last week. With regards to the CVVT system i haven't been able to mimic the OEM setup due to the proprietary Hyundai cam angle trigger. To be honest i haven't spent much time on this but from what i understand the Hyundai intake cam on the BETA-II hasn't got a dowel pin which is used by the cam sensor pickup like the 4g63 or BETA-I engine. The BETA-II intake cam instead has a raised edge around 50% of the cam and this isn't something the Link G4+ has been programmed to understand...

Wtih my setup, instead of using the Link VVT functionality I've setup the CVVT solenoid using the CAM-Switched mode. On the dyno I've found this really helps improve mid-end power and also improves turbo spool. In terms of numbers I've found this config to add around 60whp in the mid-range.
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For reference, the Hyundai manual has quite a few details on the CVVT setup under the emissions section:

With regards to the idle control, I'm running a Bosch e-throttle so I'm afraid i've never used the Link ECU to control the factory IAC valve... I'd assume the Link idle control settings with a PWM output would be all you need? Just out of interest, where abouts in the UK are you based? If your close by i'd be happy to help :)
 

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I have just seen this! We should definitely chat I'm in Hampshire I will DM you. I have done lots more since I last commented, I sorted the idle out but my CVVT remains unplugged however I do have the cam sensor working and in sync so I'm pretty sure I could use that to make it all work as I needed it for running direct spark on the lexus coils.

I also took the dash out and I ended up wiring in a standalone fuse box. It's still very much a work in progress but should be good to go soon.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Arh nice we're talking full-on track car then? I feel your pain with the dreaded blower housing / ecu location. I've always wondered why Hyundai with their infamous wisdom decided to place the engine harness directly behind the heater core... Looks like your builds coming along nicely though. Good to see another Coupe running the Toyota Yaris coils :)
 
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