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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is Jezebel, an 04 GT 6-speed Tiburon from Florida that had the timing belt snap, and has now been repaired (see below)



Purchase bonuses include:
•Clean title•
•No accidents•
•Original car paperwork•
•DC Sports Headers•
•DC Sports Cat-back•
•AEM CAI•
•F/L headlights•
•In general good condition for a $800 car•

The now running engine actually seems pretty happy, there's nearly no blow by and no CELs. there's tons of leaks in the engine bay that need to be addressed, but nothing critically bad.

my future goal is to boost it, but that wont happen for a few years, until I'm out of school at least. I'm not planning on tracking it or doing anything of the sort, I would drag it at most once it's boosted. It's be my daily driver / weekend driver in the summer and will be stored away in the winter to prevent rust. I'm using this thread as a record of what I've done and when it happened, as I'm a forgetful idiot and can't remember these things for the life of me.

I would like to give it a new paint job and fix the comedic flaws next year, put in a new sound system and amp, and replace all the damaged / unfixable interior bits.

http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/members/the_evenger-albums-jezebel.html
I tried to upload a picture, but I keep getting this:


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Progress report!




We have one of the heads off with no major piston damage, I'm pretty confident I'll be able to salvage this engine! Just getting one side off was a serious PITA, I can't wait to try getting the exhaust manifold off on the other side. I'm also seriously not looking forward to picking the belt out from the crank shaft, it's in there really ****in' good. removing those head bolts wasn't easy either, it took a full breaker bar with a cheater bar on top to get those ****ers to come lose, not even our impact could get it lose until we did that. I can't believe they were going into aluminum...

...pics

Nice Find! One of my fav colors for the tibs...
Thank!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Progress report!



Both heads are off, there's no major piston damage. All this engine needs is a valve job, timing belt kit, and $80 worth of gaskets. I have more important things to spend the money on right now but I should be able to get the parts in a month or two.

looking back, I probably could have taken the cylinder heads off without taking the manifolds off. all the exhaust bolts were lose, other than the manifold, I borderline could have taken them off with just my fingers. The stuff in the timing belt is SHARP! I was bleeding from picking it out from around the crank. It took a stupid long time to clean up all the bits of belt that were left.

I also checked all the electronics today, blinkers / windows / sunroof / locks are all working. sweet! only problem is the airbag light is on.

...pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
nice work. Is it easy to remove the carbon build-up and oil deposits from the pistons?
it's not bad with a scraper, just a bit nerve wracking with the head mating surface just an inch away. I removed the carbon so I could measure where TDC was on all the pistons and be sure there wasn't a bent connecting rod or something. I really doubt that a connecting rod would bend to a valve, but I rather be safe than sorry at this point. I was kinda freaking out earlier because the crankshaft wouldn't turn, turns out it was chunks of the timing belt behind the pulley binding it up.
 

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Now this may be a novice question given I personally have never removed the heads off a vehicle.. but watched it done, why or how is there coolant sitting on top of some of the pistons in the picture? Just for personal knowledge gain :)
 

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Now this may be a novice question given I personally have never removed the heads off a vehicle.. but watched it done, why or how is there coolant sitting on top of some of the pistons in the picture? Just for personal knowledge gain :)
Even after draining the coolant, there is some here and there in the engine. When you break the HG seal, oil and coolant can drop out of the head into the cylinder.

As to scraping the piston tops or combustion chamber, be REAL careful, don't make gouges or deep scrapes. These can lead to det later when running.
I like to use rounded scrapers, or hard plastic followed by brass brushes.
 
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That my friends is precisely why I harp on people about changing their timing belt.. ;)
You....harp?!?!, say it ain't so......:surprise:





>:D
 

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Lol, sometimes I think all people hear when I talk is the Charlie Brown teacher.....LOL
Then when something happens, all you can do is shrug.........:|

Sometimes it's not what you say, it's how you say it. Kid on a Subaru forum has been asking brake questions, I suggested he get someone that knows to look over his shoulder. He didn't like some of my rude remarks (like, "glad I don't have to drive near you").
My comment back was that it was different than messing up a TB or tinting lights, you mess up brakes and you can hurt people.

Anyway, back to this thread.
Glad to hear the SB seems OK. Gaskets and a valve job are not the end of the world, unlike my built Subaru engine where I dropped a valve and took out a piston (custom) and head (no longer made PandP DOHC).
:crying:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Progress report!



I have both heads on now, I spent a lot of time looking for a bag of cam bolts... finally found it and snapped one of the last bolts when it wasn't even near it's torque spec... wonderful. luckily I was able to get it out with some heat and a punch/hammer.

getting some good gasket remover made a world of difference for cleaning up the mating surfaces, like the difference between stabbing someone with a pointy stick and a sward.

while I had time to wast I re-conditioned the headlights, I sanded them until they were consistently foggy and sprayed new clear on them. nothing will fix the chip in the driver head light, but they at least look a lot better than they did.

...pics
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Progress report!



I fired up the engine for the first time yesterday... barely. At first it wasn't starting, every once in a while it would sound like it tried to start but go back to cranking. I went through all the troubleshooting steps and eventually decided to dump some gasoline in the front cylinders, which it then fired up, kinda. It was idling very badly, jumping between 300 and 3000 like crazy, I'm guessing Jezebel sat for a while and all the gas in the tank went bad, I never did ask the previous owner how long it wasn't running... I only had it running for about 10 seconds because I don't have the cooling system in yet, nor the accessories.

tomorrow I'll dump 5 gallons of fresh gas in the tank and finish up putting it together, I don't have much left so I should have it done soon. I also have no oil pressure light, ever. If I jump the harness to a ground at the sender connector it does illuminate, so I'm pretty sure it's just the sender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
IT LIVES!



It's finally running, I decided to repair the engine instead of replacing it because A) I have a friend that's interested in Neptune for reasons, B) I wanted to see how hard it is to repair it instead of replacing it. Would I do it again? hell no. With the amount of money I ended up spending on this engine I could have bought another one with less than 100k miles on it, and that would have been a lot easier to drop in. maybe if just 2 to 6 valves were bent I would do this again, but every damn valve got smacked.

I also flushed the brake fluid because the stuff that was in it was BLAAAAACK. like the void.



I will cherish the engine plastics that I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I finally got Jezebel registered and ensured today and it's better than I expected! there's no suspension noise, tire noise, vibrations, or anything bad! Everything is working perfectly.... accept for cruise control. It was lighting up but not working, so I looked at the stoppers for the pedals, and sure enough, the clutch pedal's kick off stopper has disintegrated. I have the switch taped down for right now, but I'll get a stopper from a junkyard later. The radio also suuuuuucks, I'll see if I can grab a factory radio while I'm at the junk yard.

I also serviced all the brake caliper guide pins because the rear ones were frozen, no surprise there. The brake pads look new actually, they must have 80-90% of the friction material on them! score! although one of the rear brake pads were installed incorrectly with notch for the caliper not aligned, causing a lot of wear on the bottom of the pad and no wear on the top.

I also did a lot of cleaning in the engine bay, tire foam goes a long way for cleaning/restoring faded plastics and trim pieces.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm back from the junk yard! I got a new clutch peddle kick off pad, radio, sub-woofer (for $25!), and radio trim.

I did a little modification to the radio I picked up, I added an aux. You need to remove the top panel, remove the CD player with 6 screws, and there you will have your prize: the tape player control board. there are pins tords the back of the radio that are labled "R", "L", and "Ground". simply take an aux cord, cut off one end, and solder the red wire to "R", blue wire to "L" and the copper wire to "Ground". CONGRATULATIONS! you now have an aux! (note: you need a tape in the player for it to actually switch to tape)

I'm particularly happy because usually when I try to modify anything, it ends up in worse shape than I started. NOT THE CASE THIS TIME!


Half of the bulbs on the face plate were out, so I bought some LED gauge cluster bulbs, removed them from the sockets, and soldered them to the board. all for the grand total of about $7.


lastly, the sub woofer that's a 400 watt sub sounded like ass for obvious reasons when driven by the stock amp, and I was able to grab a factory sub woofer with the factory sub in it for next to nothing! it's not often, but sometimes I get lucky~!

my 3rd dash clock broke (can't set time), so instead of replacing it I'm going to fix this one. currently waiting for parts, I'm sick of buying these.
 
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