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2006 Hyundai Tiburon Gt
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my 06 Tiburon wants to start overheating with the AC running at an idle at a red light. I can turn off the AC and start driving it and the temp gauge starts going back to where it always sits. Also my Ac will blow cold for a while then not cold, just hot air but then later I can turn the Ac off and back on and it will blow cold again. Could it be my water pump going out and thats why its trying to overheat with the Ac on. The coolant level is sitting right at the full mark. Also do I need to put some freon into the AC? Any advice is appreciated
 

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Is the condenser fan coming on the moment you engage the AC?
If not, there ya go! There’s 2 fans to push air through the radiator when there’s not enough airflow and it gets hot. The radiator fan only triggers when temp goes higher. Once moving and natural airflow is passing through and temp drops, it shuts down.

But the condenser fan always spins up when AC is engaged as now the evaporator in front of the radiator is dissipating heat as well. Max AC means it’s on all the time. If you aren’t on max AC and have electronic climate control so the compressor cycles periodically. The condenser fan goes on/off with the compressor. If it isn’t, or the fan blades are bent or damaged, it also won’t cool as it needs. Given the age of my ‘06 GT, I replaced both fan assemblies, and the fan assemblies are fairly inexpensive, or you catch a sale. I got both for about $100 and they are strong at cooling. And if you want the best, and live where 100F temps are common for months in the summer, spend the $275 for a Mishimoto 2 pass all aluminum radiator! It’s a direct replacement with no mods needed if you have a manual trans. I did, and have an AT, and the Mishimoto doesn’t have the built in ATF cooler. But it’s $45 for an external ATF cooler that is easily mounted in front of the condenser, it’s an upgrade too.. Doesn’t need to be large, and it still far exceeds the almost useless integrated ATF cooler in the OEM radiator.

if you don’t live where it gets extremely hot, if you replace the fans, replace the radiator too, as well as upper/lower hoses, and replace the thermostat too. Its a $200 cost if you DIY and makes sense as there’s no real extra labor involved. It’s like $60 for a new radiator, $30 for hoses & thermostat, and our cars are old! Especially if the original radiator (or worse the original thermostat) is still in there. Then your Tib will reward you and never run hot, even when idling in traffic.
 

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Could be any number of things. Usually if you're overheating while sitting but not while driving you're not getting enough air over the radiator either due to fans not functioning properly, blocked or damaged radiator fins, a coolant leak, a faulty thermostat, or damaged radiator or lines. If it ever goes up and down while driving then it could be the water pump failing or air in the system or any of the other things I already mentioned.
 

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2006 Hyundai Tiburon Gt
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is the condenser fan coming on the moment you engage the AC?
If not, there ya go! There’s 2 fans to push air through the radiator when there’s not enough airflow and it gets hot. The radiator fan only triggers when temp goes higher. Once moving and natural airflow is passing through and temp drops, it shuts down.

But the condenser fan always spins up when AC is engaged as now the evaporator in front of the radiator is dissipating heat as well. Max AC means it’s on all the time. If you aren’t on max AC and have electronic climate control so the compressor cycles periodically. The condenser fan goes on/off with the compressor. If it isn’t, or the fan blades are bent or damaged, it also won’t cool as it needs. Given the age of my ‘06 GT, I replaced both fan assemblies, and the fan assemblies are fairly inexpensive, or you catch a sale. I got both for about $100 and they are strong at cooling. And if you want the best, and live where 100F temps are common for months in the summer, spend the $275 for a Mishimoto 2 pass all aluminum radiator! It’s a direct replacement with no mods needed if you have a manual trans. I did, and have an AT, and the Mishimoto doesn’t have the built in ATF cooler. But it’s $45 for an external ATF cooler that is easily mounted in front of the condenser, it’s an upgrade too.. Doesn’t need to be large, and it still far exceeds the almost useless integrated ATF cooler in the OEM radiator.

if you don’t live where it gets extremely hot, if you replace the fans, replace the radiator too, as well as upper/lower hoses, and replace the thermostat too. Its a $200 cost if you DIY and makes sense as there’s no real extra labor involved. It’s like $60 for a new radiator, $30 for hoses & thermostat, and our cars are old! Especially if the original radiator (or worse the original thermostat) is still in there. Then your Tib will reward you and never run hot, even when idling in traffic.
We checked the fans and they're both working. Thank you so much for all the helpful info. I love my Tiburon and and set in a covered garage for years and wasn't hardly driven when I purchased it but I try and baby it. It hasn't had any problems for almost 5 years and I've just kept up with normal maintenance. My brother told me its the water pump and he knows his car info well. I've talked with my mechanic and he says also that its the water pump. We've ordered the right parts and I hope to keep her running strong. Once this motor is toast I plan on replacing it with a new one and then come the turbo but its a slow process for right now
 

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Might as well do the whole Gates timing kit while you're in there (part number TCK-WP315)
 
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