Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner

41 - 60 of 70 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
I would not recommend getting the 1.8L conrod and/or pistons. Not only does it drop your CR way down it completely hoses the quench area of the combustion chamber.
So I decided to go the tried and tested route as I did with my 2.0 Elantra. Went out and got myself some VW Caravelle pistons. YES.. I said VW ... They are of equal dimensions in almost every aspect and they are dished. The piston face is 1mm lower than the stock Tib pistons which is great. Just have to shave the lip on the one side and seeing the dish is not centered, it also has to be shaved to accomodate the valves - two birds, one stone.. and to top it off.. they cost me around US$140 +- and are available locally. :)

Dave - you may remember our mutual "friend" CNK ? - well he did the homework on the pistons way back when and is possibly the ONLY thing he suggested that actually worked correctly. anyway.. moving on..

They are capable of handling boost, considering my Elantra ran up to 1.2bar as a daily and never had any issues or failures.

Im busy stripping the replacement engine i bought as well. Sending that off to have crank polished, sleeves bored 1 oversize as well as new bearings(big ends and mains) and the head will be refurbished all round other than valves which are still good.











 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,088 Posts
LOL CNK. Forgot about that guy. Those pistons may be dished but they are still cast so just be aware of that fact..they may help lower compression but they will be no more knock tolerant than stockers.

Have whoever is machining the block check out wear the pistons sits at TDC. It should be just a flush or a tad over the block deck height for proper quench. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Its been a [email protected]#KED up year.. ignored my car, a few things were left and not maintained so spent some good time and effort sorting out nitty-gritty stuff like gaskets on the manifold/turbo, oil leak, overheating(which turned out to be an electrical issue on the wires from the sensor to the gauge - needless to say replaced anything and everything to do with the cooling system - radiator, water pump, thermostat, sensor, the works and head gasket with skim and new head bolts) turned out to be a faulty heat gauge

Then slapped it on the dyno and had a bit of a tune.. performance improved "slightly" yet still guzzles fuel .. basically get 80Km's on 15liters.. the pic below is what it pushes now - up from 141Kw

Went out last week and got me an N75 electronic boost controller. The XMS system the car is running supports it so will be going up to 0.8 bar by the end of the month. Will post dyno sheets when it happens as well as a vid possibly.


The boost in this pic sits between 0.3 and 0.4 bar. so all that work i did on the motor had a positive regardless.. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Its been a [email protected]#KED up year.. ignored my car, a few things were left and not maintained so spent some good time and effort sorting out nitty-gritty stuff like gaskets on the manifold/turbo, oil leak, overheating(which turned out to be an electrical issue on the wires from the sensor to the gauge - needless to say replaced anything and everything to do with the cooling system - radiator, water pump, thermostat, sensor, the works and head gasket with skim and new head bolts) turned out to be a faulty heat gauge

Then slapped it on the dyno and had a bit of a tune.. performance improved "slightly" yet still guzzles fuel .. basically get 80Km's on 15liters.. the pic below is what it pushes now - up from 141Kw

Went out last week and got me an N75 electronic boost controller. The XMS system the car is running supports it so will be going up to 0.8 bar by the end of the month. Will post dyno sheets when it happens as well as a vid possibly.


The boost in this pic sits between 0.3 and 0.4 bar. so all that work i did on the motor had a positive regardless.. :)
That's some nice output there, where you heavy footed or running extremly rich? driving in town? I think the fuel economy is a bit worse than normal..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
That's some nice output there, where you heavy footed or running extremly rich? driving in town? I think the fuel economy is a bit worse than normal..
yeah.. heavy footed a bit yet it does run very rich. the next tune should sort it out a bit.

Looking at about 0.8bar so have no idea what the power output will be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
Nice numbers at 5700. Why so low? Were there issues going to redline?
Nah. no issues. This was still during tuning so Garth gave a print out at the first part of the tune. There is still another one which im trying to recover off my phone to post here with 204Kw and 388Nm - which is where it is now.

2 gearboxes and 2 clutches this year already. Gearbox certainly doesnt enjoy power being put thru it in any type of bends. First gearbox stripped planetary gear and second gearbox sent the diff completely off its axis and spilt the gearbox casing thru the middle. So its been a fun year - not :)
The clutch is only a 4 pot copper plate unsprung which is good for 200Kw. Yet when it gets warm it allows slippage between 2nd and 3rd. and eats the flywheel so on the second one for the year of those too.

I must admit the torque curve is pretty awesome so when I post the 204Kw run it can be clearly seen - and its SO much fun having the torque come in pretty low down and climb rather quickly, then still carry to redline without dropping too much.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
...... but I was running 397/392 on a stock Tranny and had no issues so not sure was is going on there.
Im going to go with too much torque and then grip on only one side of the drive train. Adds stresses more than what the box is able to handle I guess on multiple occasions. And in the bends, low down torque really pulls the gearbox apart with slipping diff.

The guy that is doing the gearbox now mentions he will do a small "mod" internally to limit the slip a bit and allow the power to be put down more equally"rather than one of the wheels spinning and the other not.

Will be refitting the turbo and manifold on Monday again then back to Garth for a retune on 2 maps (0.4bar (+-140Kw) and 0.8Bar (+-200Kw))

Then will see later in December how it performs and work with the gearbox from there. Possibly may need an up-rated clutch kit as well depending on how well the results of the tune are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,088 Posts
I dragged and tracked my 2.0 Tib quite a bit back in the day with its open diff. Never had an issue. In fact the built motor and trans still lives on in a friends 99 Tiburon. So unless SA gets weaker parts or you did way to hard of launches something else was going on.

I'd be weary of any 'slight mod' they'll do to the tranny to limit slip. The only true way is a new mechanical limited slip differential. Anything else is just asking for trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
408 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
.......but I was running 397/392 on a stock Tranny and had no issues so not sure was is going on there.
Yeah.. I think i was a bit over zealous when it came to high speed cornering. I still stick with the wheels spinning at high speed in the corners and putting too much strain on the diff and casing. My boosted elantra did precisely the same thing back in 2002. Uphill corners at 180Kph+, inside wheel spinning faster, and boom.. diff decided to explode on its own axis and take the housing with it.

Got the car back today with the box sorted. Shifting is a lot more crisp now as well. Taking it for full tune tomorrow at Garth. Also did a bit of "mending" on the manifold and put new gaskets all round for them. Should be good for another year or so.. lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
Looks like a sweet build 🙂 I feel you're pain though with the broken gearboxes. I'm on my first replacement of the year already. I managed to grenade 4 boxes last year! With the recent breakage I was on a track day, come down the back straight at 140mph, then after slowing for a hairpin left (2nd gear job) with lots of wheel spin I shifted into third and when I reached 6000rpm... BOOM! Ripped some teeth off the gearset. More commonly though like you mention, the factory diff just can't handle excessive torque, especially when your loading just one side of the diff like when accelerating out of corners etc. I'm hoping my custom gearset + quaife diff I've put in my new box holds up better than the factory boxes I've gone through recently... If not then it's just a bloody big expense lol
 
41 - 60 of 70 Posts
Top