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Discussion Starter #21
I disagree with this. When seals become hard and old, even if they dont leak, the change in hardness is what causes little grooves to wear into the metal faster. Repair sleeves are not always available. Once a deep enough groove is established and a leak finally does occur, you may not be able to stop the leak with a new seal.

Professionally we replace all seals. However from a DIY aspect, i can understand trying to avoid a headache when replacing them. If you arent used to dealing with seals like that, you can absolutely risk damaging it on installation. It does require patience and attention to detail.
Well looks like I'm going to amazon prime a couple of seals then. I bought a kit from Aveenav, he said it should be here around mid next week.
I feel like I might as well do the valve cover gaskets but I'm not really sure how I feel about taking the intake manifold off and various pieces in that area. I might just go with your plan and get a cam-holder tool, which I think I need to buy anyways because I need something to hold the crank pulley when I tighten it back up (I think). My next big issue is finding out how I can get the crank pulley off. Can it be done with a breaker bar?

I had a Gates lit put in 3 years ago and the water pump gasket already failed. I just replaced the kit again myself and I went with the factory gasket. It was much higher quality!!
I'm never using a paper water pump gasket ever again. I just put one in my miata and it leaked on day one. Thanks for the advice, Aveenav is sending a metal WP gasket!
 

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I might just go with your plan and get a cam-holder tool, which I think I need to buy anyways because I need something to hold the crank pulley when I tighten it back up (I think). My next big issue is finding out how I can get the crank pulley off. Can it be done with a breaker bar?
You might be able to fit the cam holder in there. I have used it on some harmonic balancers before. Its generally hit or miss. But if it does fit, then you sure can use a breaker bar to crack the bolt loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I like to change my underpants after turning the key and the car starting up fine.
I can't wait for this moment. Knowing all those fresh fluids are getting churned by a brand new belt is going to make me so happy.

You might be able to fit the cam holder in there. I have used it on some harmonic balancers before. Its generally hit or miss. But if it does fit, then you sure can use a breaker bar to crack the bolt loose.
I ordered the camshaft holder tool. I figured it's cheaper than 4 adjustable wrenches anyways. I also ordered cam/crank seals and valve cover gaskets and the seal removal tool that you recommended. I also nabbed an intake plenum gasket since I'm pretty sure the intake is coming off to remove the rear valve cover.

I'm still on the fence for an impact. I am about 90% ready to do this job!
 

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Also, be careful with the seal puller. Make sure you only grab the seal, and not the aluminum. I've seen a lot of guys that get behind the seal and gouge the side wall where the outside of the seal sits against
 

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I do a lot of work myself as I have both an ‘06 GT V6 AT with the bump shifter, and also an ‘05 SE V6 w/6 spd manual. The best of both I think. 🙂

I bought my ‘06 GT new, with 7 miles on it. But I was lucky to have an independent shop a mile from home, owned by a Vietnamese guy who is a master mechanic...who charges only $60/hr labor! So from the first oil change, I’ve only used Mobil 1 5w-30, and Hyundai SPIII ATF changed every 30K. It’s 14 yrs old now, with 110K on it, and the engine still has no belt noise, the AT is as strong as it was new, and the only failure it’s ever had was the AC clutch magnet a yr ago. VERY hard to just access the compresso, much less R&R it! I bought the exact same compressor it was built with, as well as a new condenser (cheaper for the entire unit than to just replace the desiccant bag), and new radiator, all for $200 total on Amazon. Gave him the parts, and glad I did! To pull the compressor he had to unbolt the motor mount & jack up the side. But as you need to open the system & remove the compressor. You need to pull the radiator & condenser anyway. So for both the parts, and his labor, $450 and the AC is basically brand new. I had no doubts. When he does my ATF changes, he cleans the throttle body as well, and she shifts firm & quick just like new. When you find a good mechanic, it’s as important as having a good dentist! Lol

I’m impressed by the pluck of those doing timing belts on their own. But I’ve had it done twice now on my GT, and once when I bought the SE (had 105K and no records so I had the timing belt done). But I always get the Gates full kit from either RockAuto, or Amazon, whichever is cheaper. And on the 2nd belt change on my GT, also had him replace the tensioner & water pump. The first time he did a timing belt on my GT, he didn’t ask, he just replaced the cam seals as well. But not the crank seal or anything else. He said the crank seal rarely fails, but cam seals are essential, and cheap insurance.

To date, my ‘06 GT doesn’t have a drop of oil or anything on the block or in the engine compartment. Absolutely nothing leaks or ever has! And runs just as it did when I bought it new! And when I bought the SE, I also had him do timing belt inc. tensioner & water pump, and also condenser, radiator, hoses, and new fans, as it all pulls out as one unit, and at the time, those OEM parts were dirt cheap. So not really anything to break now, unless it throws a rod or something, highly unlikely! It also now idles silent like my GT as well, and not a leak of any kind.

I’ll do brakes and other maint myself where it isn’t a close tolerance job. But when it comes to very difficult labor, or exact tolerance work like the timing belt. Where one mistake can destroy the pistons & heads. I leave it to the guy who has done it hundreds of times, and also replaces things that he just knows can cause problems that aren’t usually in a timing belt kit. And it’s not a weekend of frustration for me! I ”could” do all of these myself. But if you have an independent mechanic who cares about your Tib, and not some random guy, the dealership mechanics were totally inept. It’s never been overly expensive, so its been worth every penny to let him do it where it’s fairly technical, and always a perfect job.

Not to say there aren’t really skilled folks here who can DIY it and do just as good a job. But if you’ve never done it on a Tib like me. There’s just too many things that I could easily overlook and cause major damage. I’ve not done it on an interference engine! So I leave it to who I trust, and couldn’t be happier to pay a reasonable labor charge, with my choice of parts, and know it’ll be a perfect assembly! And with a good timing belt job/belt replacement. Any squeaks are gone, and it’s silent at idle afterwards if it was noisy before! Just IMHO, but for how well my Tibs run, with both of them just over 100K and zero issues says to me that I made the right choices.

That said, the members here are knowledgeable and an awesome community! I’ve gotten great advice and hard to find info. And I’m glad when I can provide unique info when someone is tackling something tricky which I’ve done first hand. Big thanks to the members here!
 

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I do a lot of work myself as I have both an ‘06 GT V6 AT with the bump shifter, and also an ‘05 SE V6 w/6 spd manual. The best of both I think. 🙂

I bought my ‘06 GT new, with 7 miles on it. But I was lucky to have an independent shop a mile from home, owned by a Vietnamese guy who is a master mechanic...who charges only $60/hr labor! So from the first oil change, I’ve only used Mobil 1 5w-30, and Hyundai SPIII ATF changed every 30K. It’s 14 yrs old now, with 110K on it, and the engine still has no belt noise, the AT is as strong as it was new, and the only failure it’s ever had was the AC clutch magnet a yr ago. VERY hard to just access the compresso, much less R&R it! I bought the exact same compressor it was built with, as well as a new condenser (cheaper for the entire unit than to just replace the desiccant bag), and new radiator, all for $200 total on Amazon. Gave him the parts, and glad I did! To pull the compressor he had to unbolt the motor mount & jack up the side. But as you need to open the system & remove the compressor. You need to pull the radiator & condenser anyway. So for both the parts, and his labor, $450 and the AC is basically brand new. I had no doubts. When he does my ATF changes, he cleans the throttle body as well, and she shifts firm & quick just like new. When you find a good mechanic, it’s as important as having a good dentist! Lol

I’m impressed by the pluck of those doing timing belts on their own. But I’ve had it done twice now on my GT, and once when I bought the SE (had 105K and no records so I had the timing belt done). But I always get the Gates full kit from either RockAuto, or Amazon, whichever is cheaper. And on the 2nd belt change on my GT, also had him replace the tensioner & water pump. The first time he did a timing belt on my GT, he didn’t ask, he just replaced the cam seals as well. But not the crank seal or anything else. He said the crank seal rarely fails, but cam seals are essential, and cheap insurance.

To date, my ‘06 GT doesn’t have a drop of oil or anything on the block or in the engine compartment. Absolutely nothing leaks or ever has! And runs just as it did when I bought it new! And when I bought the SE, I also had him do timing belt inc. tensioner & water pump, and also condenser, radiator, hoses, and new fans, as it all pulls out as one unit, and at the time, those OEM parts were dirt cheap. So not really anything to break now, unless it throws a rod or something, highly unlikely! It also now idles silent like my GT as well, and not a leak of any kind.

I’ll do brakes and other maint myself where it isn’t a close tolerance job. But when it comes to very difficult labor, or exact tolerance work like the timing belt. Where one mistake can destroy the pistons & heads. I leave it to the guy who has done it hundreds of times, and also replaces things that he just knows can cause problems that aren’t usually in a timing belt kit. And it’s not a weekend of frustration for me! I ”could” do all of these myself. But if you have an independent mechanic who cares about your Tib, and not some random guy, the dealership mechanics were totally inept. It’s never been overly expensive, so its been worth every penny to let him do it where it’s fairly technical, and always a perfect job.

Not to say there aren’t really skilled folks here who can DIY it and do just as good a job. But if you’ve never done it on a Tib like me. There’s just too many things that I could easily overlook and cause major damage. I’ve not done it on an interference engine! So I leave it to who I trust, and couldn’t be happier to pay a reasonable labor charge, with my choice of parts, and know it’ll be a perfect assembly! And with a good timing belt job/belt replacement. Any squeaks are gone, and it’s silent at idle afterwards if it was noisy before! Just IMHO, but for how well my Tibs run, with both of them just over 100K and zero issues says to me that I made the right choices.

That said, the members here are knowledgeable and an awesome community! I’ve gotten great advice and hard to find info. And I’m glad when I can provide unique info when someone is tackling something tricky which I’ve done first hand. Big thanks to the members here!
where do you live man? i need to know this Vietnamese guy!
 
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