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I've been thinking about getting headers and an exhaust system made up but it would really only affect sound as mods on NA are miniscule in terms of power to money spent. I was thinking of getting 4-2-1 headers and the rest of the exhaust system custom made.

In terms if power how much bhp do you think that would gain? I'm assuming 5, maybe 10 if I'm lucky?
 

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2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0l i4 - 5 spd - MAP Based
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I don't have any "recorded information for you, but headers can create more power. It depends on your current upgrades, state OBDII compliance guidelines and personal opinion (to be honest). I'm in LA, so we only have a "basic" inspection, and it can be 1 or 2 years depending on cost. I don't have any cats, but I am trying to incorporate a high flow cat on my 2.0 SC E85 because I don't want to leave a bigger footprint than the other guy just because I'm cheap :).

On a lighter note, I noticed a good gain and definitely tone from my I4 tib with just the 4-2-1 header installed and no cat. Of course, this was when my car was 14 years old @ 135K miles. I bought it at 130K from a small used car salesman in 2016. The ram air and header made her louder for sure and maybe 10% more responsive...I say this though because my cat was ugly like the owner before me ran kerosene and straight carbon as fuel! With the stock exhaust from the header back she was sounding pretty good, but I honestly heard the ram air more than the exhaust. The age of my tib had caused the resonator to just be mostly dust and rust particles inside the perforations so it was pretty raspy.

Sorry, but it's up to you on the exhaust because it honestly doesn't net enough BHP or torque for the cost VS a full exhaust system. Especially when considering NA, I would urge you to try some FI stuff, dude? LOL. I am just a big enthusiast on FI because our cars are - plain and simple - BEASTS!. I'm currently doing my final upgrades with E85/Eaton M62/intercooler/BOV/Fuel pump and filter - SS lines/AEM FIC (injectors only basically - 550cc Lancer)/rebuilt crank and rod bearings/water and oil pump/ new gaskets from bottom up/no AC (roots SC is located there with homemade brackets)/returnless fuel system w/ RRFPR set for 1:1 to compensate for boost pressure/new COP - coil over plugs w/ AEM/rebuilt 04 Elantra 5sp. gearbox with my bellhousing/ and everything else I forgot. Man, I've spent about $2,500 on all my upgrades...but I'm able to install and tune myself. The car you have is AWESOME, but if you don't have the elecrical/mechanical ability to do any of this I would suggest the headers plus a catback because the headers don't add much unless you're deleting the catalytic converter. Even then, you have to consider the stock Hyundai's ECU because it will adjust STFT and LTFT (short and long term fuel trims) based off both of your O2 (oxygen sensors) and you will throw a code if you just throw on a header. Meaning you need to reset the ECU by pulling the engine bay ECU fuse every - let's say 2-3 days :cautious:.

The Hyundai ECU is a pain, but you can get some reasonable gain if you do it right. For the 5-8% header gain you could get a high flow CAT with the header and be golden. If you want to delete the CAT (shame on you ;) - and OBDII isn't an issue - then you can actually get away with NA and a header if you use an O2 sensor (fouling extender/coupler) on the upstream and downstream O2 sensor...anyone else with better info than me please join in because I haven't done this myself. I used a header and just left my downstream O2 strapped to my exhaust behind the flex right where the downstream O2 used to thread in my exhaust. I wouldn't suggest this if you have any OBDII in your area... I didn't have this setup for long before I had an Eaton M62 from a Mercedes installed where the A./C normally goes and pushing 6-8 PSI with stock ECU and 290cc injectors. She worked.

If you want the header man, do it...just keep in mind our ECU is monitoring both O2 sensors for fuel trims. Do some searching on this site...takes a minute... and see that the gains don't necessarily outweigh the...Hyundai ECU headache without a piggyback or standalone ECU. I hate myself for saying that btw.
 

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Cheers for the reply, I have done my fair share of research on here and other forums about stuff I was curious about but it was either people making stupid claims like an extra 15whp or else saying it's worse, also the fact I live in Malta in Europe makes this worse as over in Europe we don't have access to any aftermarket parts like you guys in the US, everything we do has to be custom. Also, were you saying that a full exhaust system would net gains that would make it worth the money? (I mean I doubt it since this is NA lol but yea). I have considered FI BUT highly unlikely, it costs way too much money and I would rather save that money to go towards my dream car, an RX-8, when I can be insured on it in a couple years. People have gotten power from their NA tib, a couple guys here have theirs boosted and pushing 500bhp but it costs them a pretty penny obviously. As for road inspection, mine is every 2 years due to the low mileage of my tib and also it's not so thorough so you can get away with alot.

I can get mild steel headers made up for roughly 300 euro is what I was quoted, full exhaust system I'm looking at 600-800 probably, and that MIGHT net me what?, 10bhp? but it would sound awesome I bet.

But yea that's where I'm currently at, debating whether to bother spending any money on it or just enjoy it as it is till I can get my dream car, putting the money towards that. For where I am it is decently quick, nothing impressive but quick, not to mention it looks really good and is comfortable.
 

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2003 Hyundai Tiburon 2.0l i4 - 5 spd - MAP Based
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Exactly what I would think from your NA setup. I haven't looked or noticed if you said anything about a nice K&N ram or cold air intake. I don't like cold air just because if you're somewhere that tends to have puddles and don't run the piping right - water through the intake is obviously very bad news.

Usually the NA guys here go with I/H/E intake/header/exhaust because a header is only as good as the remaining downstream system (bottleneck). I say bottleneck loosely because NA gains from I/H/E are IMO due to the loss of catalytic converter flow. However, there's more to just deleting a cat than putting on the header...since our cars ECM sees this with the downstream O2 (upstream as well if the header used has a bad location. A lot of people use the 4-2-1 and then have a bung for upstream on a single cylinder. This is dangerous because you're only monitoring that one cylinder. I have this BUT I have a wideband reading all and a piggyback helping out, so I just use an extender and put my stock narrowband O2 on a single pipe.

If you're looking to get the RX-8 because that's your dream car then I don't have any suggestings LOL - because I like those too. I'd say save your funds for upgrades to make that sucker look or sound better.

You have to understand though brother - I'm the cheapo here. I have a junkyard Mercedes M62 that I rebuilt and a bunch of Amazon and Ebay parts along with my AEM FIC and some expensive Genesis injectors (cuz I don't cheap out on the super important stuff). :ROFLMAO:

My exhaust consists of a $70 Ebay header that is really for the earlier RD tibs but I made some adjustments. The remaining exhaust is from a Ford Edge at, yup you guessed it, a junkyard. Used some Auto store couplings/bends/etc goop to make it fit. I haven't been to a dyno but I can tell you that I jump everything I've raced from the line and most give up before 3rd. Except for that ridiculous STI a few weeks back running who knows but definitely N2O. Mine isn't hooked up yet or honestly...because I'm a better driver LOL i would have been able to keep up. Oh...hes AWD and I jumped him at the start too - roots SC at low RPM! Usually I just get a weird look from people like, dude what is that sound I'm hearing?

Bought car for $1,500. Dropped about $3K into her thus far and most wouldn't think I have a $4,500 investment when they're looking at the tail lights.
 
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