Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

Car: 2003 V6 6MT

I started hearing a screeching noise few days ago from the front driver side wheel. first guess was brake pads.
upon inspection the pads were thin enough that I was confident with my diagnoses.

So, got a new pads yesterday and replaced all front pads, but no luck, the noise is still there.
The noise is like a grinding/screeching noise at low speeds, and then it goes away at 25+ MPH
But it has been getting progressively worse over the last 2-3 days.

The WEIRD Symptoms:
Yesterday when I placed the car on jack-stands to replace the pads, car was in neutral and I have noticed that the passenger side wheel is spinning freely, but the driver side wheel is not.
I can rotate the wheel about 10 degrees in each direction only, it feels like the car is in gear, but it is not.

I am not noticing any transmission issues, and the car is making that noise at low speeds regardless of what gear I'm in, neutral or not, clutch or not.

Luckily I do have a brand new wheel hub with a new bearing setting in my garage, bought it last year but never needed it (another long story).
So I might replace it today if I found some free time.

But what do you guys think might be the problem, could it be internal to the transmission? the internal diff?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,978 Posts
Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Once the seals go on those any water or dirt that gets in the bearing chews it up pretty quick. Excessive camber will eat them pretty quickly as well. Plus they don't tend to last much longer than 100k anyways.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I am praying that it is the wheel bearing and not something in the transmission.
I do not have any camber on my car, it is pretty stock.

But how do you explain the wheel not rotating?!
I would have thought a bad bearing would make rotation hard, but not restrict it totally.

Anyway, few more hours and I will get home and try to install it,
the bearing and the hub are already in the freezer :p
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,612 Posts
Sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Once the seals go on those any water or dirt that gets in the bearing chews it up pretty quick. Excessive camber will eat them pretty quickly as well. Plus they don't tend to last much longer than 100k anyways.
FWIW....agreed.
Trans issue (basically differential) should affect both wheels on the front of a FWD car.
Since you have one bad wheel, if caliper is free, matching wheel is free, what's left????....wheel bearing......


Please post a followup.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I haven't forgot you guys, but did half of the job on Tuesday, then found out that the bearing press I rented from AutoZone is a bit smaller than needed,
and didn't have time to do anything yesterday.
So today I will stop by Harbor Freight and get an 8" C-Clamp to finish installing the bearing.

But on the positive side, the bearing was in a super bad shape, and I would not find it hard to believe that it was the cause of the sound.
While I am at it as well, I bought 3 Qts of 75w90 oil for the transmission, but I will finish the wheel hub/bearing first, test drive it, make sure the sound was from that, then change the trans oil.

So I will update you guys tomorrow, or over the weekend at most.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
A C Clamp doesn't provide near enough consistent pressure to press in the bearing. You need a 20 ton press to do it right. Chances are the clamp will break or slip off.
You are 100% right!!
All these kits that you can rent/buy from (AutoZone, Harbor Freight, .. etc) are good for things like bushings and things of that sort.

When getting the wheel hub out, part of the failing bearing was still stuck to it, and another was stuck to the spendel.
Now I don't care about the wheel hub since I got a new one, but the one in the spendel is IMPOSSIBLE to take out.
Then after you somehow manage to take it out without damaging your spendel, the new bearing is F*** IMPOSSIBLE to press-in with these pedestrian tools.

Long story short, I took my spendel, bearing, and hub to a shop near me, and they pressed them for me for $50. Best $50 I spent in my life!
I didn't get a chance to put everything together yet, will do that tonight and update you guys tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Oh!, and I forgot to say that I stripped the nut of my tie rod end .. hhhhh
a trip to HomeDepot is needed before assembling the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
FINAL UPDATE:

So, the new bearing/hub are in, and the car is driving perfectly again.
the whole issue was from the bearing, even the limited rotation when the car is in neutral, now it is all back to normal.

Assembling everything was pretty easy and straightforward, took less than an hour to put in the spindle, shaft, sway bar link, ball-joint, tie-rod, caliper bracket, brakes, caliper, wheel, and torque everything to "spec" ;P

BTW, didn't do the trans oil change, because I can't find the 3 Qts I bought. my wife is telling me that she might have trashed the box by mistake on the last bulk trash day. 45 bucks down the drain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,978 Posts
Good times....been there done that. This one time at band camp I bought a 50 dollar 5qt bottle of Royal Purple motor oil and proceeded to drain the old oil out and fill up the engine with new oil only to realize I never put the oil pan drain plug back in so my fresh new oil was now in my dirty old drain pan. Good times....NOT!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top