ttt....ANYONE????
Where to mount crossovers for front component speakers?
I just purchased a JL XR650-CSi 2-Way Component System to replace the front speakers. Where should I mount the crossover networks at? The place I bought them at said to mount them with the front speakers inside the doors but that would make adjustments a pain in the *** since the networks have adjustments. Any suggestions or pics of setups?? I was thinking behind the rear seat next to my amp but that means I have to run more speaker wire.......
Or maybe under the seats?? I want it to hidden as much as possible.....HELP!!!!
Or maybe under the seats?? I want it to hidden as much as possible.....HELP!!!!
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Realize that water runs through the doors, so inside is not a good idea. Maybe put them in the map pocket in the door panel. Running new wires also means you have to take the doors off the car, which believe me isnt fun. But its the only way to do it right.
jasontib777 said:Realize that water runs through the doors, so inside is not a good idea. Maybe put them in the map pocket in the door panel. Running new wires also means you have to take the doors off the car, which believe me isnt fun. But its the only way to do it right.
I mounted them under the dash. Seems to have worked good.
I recently ordered a set of Infinity components - I think I'm going to mount them in that little space, near where the trunk release switch is - seems like a decent spot to me ...
I have the same components. I went behind the back side panel where the original factory amp was and made a plate to mount them on. It's not easily accesable, but it's a lot easier than pulling each door panel off. And it's out of the way. Trust me, you won't need to program those crossovers once you get them set.
flush mount in the kick panels.
Where's your set at? Do you have an amp powering yours or they just powered by the head unit?b-dirty said:I have the same components. I went behind the back side panel where the original factory amp was and made a plate to mount them on. It's not easily accesable, but it's a lot easier than pulling each door panel off. And it's out of the way. Trust me, you won't need to program those crossovers once you get them set.
In the door panel is the easiest and best location for the crossover, I have an infinity component set in my car among the tons of other audio equipment ( if you think you have me beat leemme know have not found a tib louder yet ) but thats the best spot!
mines prety loud and migth have you beat, or at least soon will. Can hear the lyrics of the song 2 blocks away, cleanly, go JL system, might not look like alot but man is it clean!
Mine are powered by an amp in the back (see here). If you pull the rear panel behind the drivers seat (where the rear speaker grill is), you will find the factory amp mounted there. It's a huge cavity where you can mount just about anything that you are trying to hide. You can take a scrap sheet of metal or wood and cut out a plate about 13"x8" (or something like that) to mount your crossovers on, then mount the board where the amp was. Be sure to use some doublesided foam tape between everything you screw together to keep vibration/rattleing to a minimum. This is a good spot for crossovers because if you are using factory wire, it has individual sets of wire going to the tweeter and mid on each door. Also, if your amp is in the trunk, it will only take about 4 feet of wire to get to it.winger4800 said:Where's your set at? Do you have an amp powering yours or they just powered by the head unit?
Oh, and I might add that you should really use an external amplifier for these components. I have heard some people who use the factory amp with aftermarket components and it's not that bad. But if you are willing to drop some money on some good speakers, you should pair them with a good amp that will make use of them. :3_yes:
Yeah, but loud means nothing if it's not crystal clear. Who cares how loud you can be if you can't sound good doing it? No one wants to listen to a distorted/muddy system. Just keep that in mind when you make those comparisons.cusumtib said:In the door panel is the easiest and best location for the crossover, I have an infinity component set in my car among the tons of other audio equipment ( if you think you have me beat leemme know have not found a tib louder yet ) but thats the best spot!
Anyhow, you can mount you x-overs pretty much anywhere you feel like taking apart and running wire to. map pockets sound the easiest, you'll just have to drill holes through the panel to get wires to the speakers. I had a friend hide them in the trunk with his amps, but you have to run twice as much wire that way. Inside the door panel is generally the standard way to go.
Nice choice on speakers though. (Don't forget the rears!) I wish they made an XR 6x9 :3_saai:
I'm installing all my stuff this weekend. Here's what I got:b-dirty said:Mine are powered by an amp in the back (see here). If you pull the rear panel behind the drivers seat (where the rear speaker grill is), you will find the factory amp mounted there. It's a huge cavity where you can mount just about anything that you are trying to hide. You can take a scrap sheet of metal or wood and cut out a plate about 13"x8" (or something like that) to mount your crossovers on, then mount the board where the amp was. Be sure to use some doublesided foam tape between everything you screw together to keep vibration/rattleing to a minimum. This is a good spot for crossovers because if you are using factory wire, it has individual sets of wire going to the tweeter and mid on each door. Also, if your amp is in the trunk, it will only take about 4 feet of wire to get to it.
Oh, and I might add that you should really use an external amplifier for these components. I have heard some people who use the factory amp with aftermarket components and it's not that bad. But if you are willing to drop some money on some good speakers, you should pair them with a good amp that will make use of them. :3_yes:
JL XR650CSI components for front.
JL TR690TXI for the rear
JL 300/4 amp for the speakers
Infinity Basslink 200 watt sub
I picked the basslink cause I wanted as much trunkspace as possible UNTIL I saw your set-up WOW that is VERY clean and well hidden. You shoul build those and patent that sub/amp enclosure before JL or some other company picks up on that. I'd pay you to build me one and carpet it..... :3_yes:
Where's your speaker amp at or does your amp power both the subs and speakers??? I have an se model so I don;t have a factory amp but I may run my crossovers in the rear panel behind the drivers seat anyway and maybe the amp too, but i'm the type yhat always likes to fiddle around and adjust stuff as far as the settings on the amp go....so I may mount the amp on the back of the rear seat....BUT i also would like it all hidden...UGH!!!!!! choices.....
I like a lot of bass but i really hope that basslink provides atleast a decdent amount of bass combined with the new speakers...My whole intention was to have some bass BUT retain trunkspace. :3_nosthum
This may sound like a stupid question but:
The speaker wire I bought is blue/silver . what color would generally be used as negitive?
If I do choose to mount the crossovers in the rear (where the factory amp would be) how were the speaker wires routed from the factory . Would'nt routing the speaker wires to the door be a pita??? To do allt his work I'm pretty much looking at a whole day of work...hopefully it pays off....guess I should take some pics whil in the process....
Next, What about the amp power wire. I noticed that factory positive battery terminal is goofy....How would I tap into that termal without having to go by a dual termail battery?
Should I run two power wires (one for my amp, then the other for my basslink) or just use one wire(4 GA) and then splice off that one? I know I'm making all this a big deal but I want it PERFECT...Thanks for all the input guys...anything is helpful!!!
The speaker wire I bought is blue/silver . what color would generally be used as negitive?
If I do choose to mount the crossovers in the rear (where the factory amp would be) how were the speaker wires routed from the factory . Would'nt routing the speaker wires to the door be a pita??? To do allt his work I'm pretty much looking at a whole day of work...hopefully it pays off....guess I should take some pics whil in the process....
Next, What about the amp power wire. I noticed that factory positive battery terminal is goofy....How would I tap into that termal without having to go by a dual termail battery?
Should I run two power wires (one for my amp, then the other for my basslink) or just use one wire(4 GA) and then splice off that one? I know I'm making all this a big deal but I want it PERFECT...Thanks for all the input guys...anything is helpful!!!
Silverwinger4800 said:This may sound like a stupid question but:
The speaker wire I bought is blue/silver . what color would generally be used as negitive?
Yep. You need to take the door off the car, and drill into the factory plug int the door. Not easy, but the most professional way to do it.winger4800 said:If I do choose to mount the crossovers in the rear (where the factory amp would be) how were the speaker wires routed from the factory . Would'nt routing the speaker wires to the door be a pita???
Just loosen one of the 3 bolts on the factory + distribution, and slip your ring terminal over it, and tighten it. Then you have to cut away a little plastic so the wire can pop out of that plastic cover.winger4800 said:Next, What about the amp power wire. I noticed that factory positive battery terminal is goofy....How would I tap into that termal without having to go by a dual termail battery?
Yeah, the best way is to run a wire to the back, and then use a distribution block there. Remember to fuse any connection where it goes from a lower gauge to a higher gauge.winger4800 said:Should I run two power wires (one for my amp, then the other for my basslink) or just use one wire(4 GA) and then splice off that one? I know I'm making all this a big deal but I want it PERFECT...Thanks for all the input guys...anything is helpful!!!
^^^
I can't really put it to you any better than that.
But in regards to running new wire to the doors, I did it the easy way and just used the factory wiring. I know, I know... that's not the professional way to do it, but I'll put down money to anybody who can tell a difference in a car with a comparable system. Not worth the pain in the *** if you ask me.
My amp is a four channel with bridgable channels (use two channels to make one mono channel). So I am running the fronts and the sub from that one amp. I have my factory speakers in the back wired up to my headunit amp, but I never have them on unless somebody rides in the back seat. And that will probably never happen. I just wired them up for the heck of it. Yeah, I'm prety proud of the fiberglass sub, but I can't take any credit for originality. This has been done many times over long before I attempted it.
You have some prety nice stuff there, but I wouldn't put so much into the rear speakers. Keep your soundstage in front of you. Rear speakers are for rear seat passengers, and I don't know anybody that small that doesn't need a car seat. Pushing two channel audio through 4 chanels only opens up a problem for imaging. It will sound cleaner if you just leave the fronts on. And trust me, they will get loud enough for your personal listening enjoyment. :3_nosthum
I can't really put it to you any better than that.
But in regards to running new wire to the doors, I did it the easy way and just used the factory wiring. I know, I know... that's not the professional way to do it, but I'll put down money to anybody who can tell a difference in a car with a comparable system. Not worth the pain in the *** if you ask me.
My amp is a four channel with bridgable channels (use two channels to make one mono channel). So I am running the fronts and the sub from that one amp. I have my factory speakers in the back wired up to my headunit amp, but I never have them on unless somebody rides in the back seat. And that will probably never happen. I just wired them up for the heck of it. Yeah, I'm prety proud of the fiberglass sub, but I can't take any credit for originality. This has been done many times over long before I attempted it.
You have some prety nice stuff there, but I wouldn't put so much into the rear speakers. Keep your soundstage in front of you. Rear speakers are for rear seat passengers, and I don't know anybody that small that doesn't need a car seat. Pushing two channel audio through 4 chanels only opens up a problem for imaging. It will sound cleaner if you just leave the fronts on. And trust me, they will get loud enough for your personal listening enjoyment. :3_nosthum
b-dirty said:^^^
I can't really put it to you any better than that.
But in regards to running new wire to the doors, I did it the easy way and just used the factory wiring. I know, I know... that's not the professional way to do it, but I'll put down money to anybody who can tell a difference in a car with a comparable system. Not worth the pain in the *** if you ask me.
My amp is a four channel with bridgable channels (use two channels to make one mono channel). So I am running the fronts and the sub from that one amp. I have my factory speakers in the back wired up to my headunit amp, but I never have them on unless somebody rides in the back seat. And that will probably never happen. I just wired them up for the heck of it. Yeah, I'm prety proud of the fiberglass sub, but I can't take any credit for originality. This has been done many times over long before I attempted it.
You have some prety nice stuff there, but I wouldn't put so much into the rear speakers. Keep your soundstage in front of you. Rear speakers are for rear seat passengers, and I don't know anybody that small that doesn't need a car seat. Pushing two channel audio through 4 chanels only opens up a problem for imaging. It will sound cleaner if you just leave the fronts on. And trust me, they will get loud enough for your personal listening enjoyment. :3_nosthum
But the rear speakers will put out a little bit of bass though....since all I have is a small basslink sub I need all the help it can get.(it's still new in box I could return it....) unlike you where you got a nice sub to take care of the bass :3_nosthum
The problem is when you need 2 sets of wires if you put the xovers elsewhere. There is only 1 set of factory wires going into the doors, so you could only hook in the woofer or the tweeter.b-dirty said:^^^
But in regards to running new wire to the doors, I did it the easy way and just used the factory wiring. I know, I know... that's not the professional way to do it, but I'll put down money to
As for rear speakers..you dont need 'em. You wont get good midbass anyways unless you build them into boxes. I use rear speakers, but only because I do Dolby Digital 5.1 surround sound...which necessiitates this.
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