[Skorch]

I'm considering getting a new clutch/flywheel after I figure out the problem with my transmission. I pretty much narrowed it down to a Fidanza fw with a Clutchmasters clutch. The question is, what stage would be optimal for me? I don't think Stage 1 is strong enough, but whether I need Stage 2 or 3 is where I'm not sure. I am currently I/H/E, Mafterburner and ud pulley, pushing 183 whp. I don't really plan on F/I anytime soon, the only major future mods being cams. Please give me suggestions.

 

[UltraRev]

I'm considering getting a new clutch/flywheel after I figure out the problem with my transmission. I pretty much narrowed it down to a Fidanza fw with a Clutchmasters clutch. The question is, what stage would be optimal for me? I don't think Stage 1 is strong enough, but whether I need Stage 2 or 3 is where I'm not sure. I am currently I/H/E, Mafterburner and ud pulley, pushing 183 whp. I don't really plan on F/I anytime soon, the only major future mods being cams. Please give me suggestions.

Stage 3 would be a better choice, the 2 and 3 have the same pressure plate but the 3 holds more power because of the stronger disk. keep in mind they are usually the same price.

 

[Orlean]

Im going with RIPP's stage 2 setup - thats rated at 400 hp and I probably will never achieve that much with this car. Stage 2 is for daily driver and track use so it doesnt fully take the discomfertment of a stiff clutch - Stage 3 is going to be alot different than stock or whatever other setup you have now since its more for track use rather than both . If you dont plan on going F/I for a while I would go with a Stage 2 - I personally think having a stage 3 with under 200 hp is useless. These are just my opinions and the information I have gathered when I choose to buy one last week. Isnt the stage 3 clutch not a full-face setup but rather having pucks which leads to a more rough engagment ? (correct me if Im wrong)

 

[bagpiper]

That's what I was thinking, a stage 3 sprung if you get a CM. I'm 251whp and getting a stage 4. The unsprung and/or 4 puck is more aggressive, and the 6 puck sprung makes a smoother transition but still grabs tight.

 

[Skorch]

Considering I'll probably get cams and be around 200 whp, would Stage 3 be more effective than Stage 2? From my understanding a sprung Stage 3 would be more comfortable to drive, right?

 

[Sky.J]

How do u replace the clutch anyways?

 

[bagpiper]

Considering I'll probably get cams and be around 200 whp, would Stage 3 be more effective than Stage 2? From my understanding a sprung Stage 3 would be more comfortable to drive, right?

From everything I've been researching. the stage 3 isn't as hard to shift as it would seem. I've read where a lot of prople have bought what they thought was a sufficient stage, only to find out they should've gone a stage higher. I was going to get a stage 3, but everyone including nextgen and ultrarev said stage 4, and that it wasn't going to be that difficult to shift with the 6 puck sprung.

If your gonna be at 200whp, I'd say a stage 3 sprung sounds right to me. Call up Ultrarev (sponsor on here).

 

[bagpiper]

How do u replace the clutch anyways?

Get the car up and remove crossmember, axle, gearbox, etc., or take the engine out the top.

 

[kartunez]

Isnt the stage 3 clutch not a full-face setup but rather having pucks which leads to a more rough engagment ? (correct me if Im wrong)

That would be wrong, the 3 and the 2 are both full face, the 3 just has a more aggressive material, i.e. bites harder. The 3 is the highest stage recommended for daily driving from CM, some have a stage 4 and daily drive and say it is a bit of a PIA to do. The 2 and the 3 are almost the same, the 3 will grab harder, but the 2 will last a little bit longer, not really sure how much, niether was CM. I got all of this straight from CM tech department, so "Straight from the horses mouth" would apply to the above statements. CM also recommended the stage 4 to be above 250, 275 HP range. Also, I believe Fidanza's stage 3 is a 4 puck style, stage 4 is a more aggressive 4 puck, and the stage 5 is a 6 puck! I haven't seen the actually line up for the Tib yet from them, so I am not a 100% on all of that! UltraRev should have more input on that! It is also recommended to get a sprung hub, makes less noise and is easier to drive, gathered from multiple statements around these boards. L8R

 

[Skorch]

That would be wrong, the 3 and the 2 are both full face, the 3 just has a more aggressive material, i.e. bites harder. The 3 is the highest stage recommended for daily driving from CM, some have a stage 4 and daily drive and say it is a bit of a PIA to do. The 2 and the 3 are almost the same, the 3 will grab harder, but the 2 will last a little bit longer, not really sure how much, niether was CM. I got all of this straight from CM tech department, so "Straight from the horses mouth" would apply to the above statements. CM also recommended the stage 4 to be above 250, 275 HP range. Also, I believe Fidanza's stage 3 is a 4 puck style, stage 4 is a more aggressive 4 puck, and the stage 5 is a 6 puck! I haven't seen the actually line up for the Tib yet from them, so I am not a 100% on all of that! UltraRev should have more input on that! It is also recommended to get a sprung hub, makes less noise and is easier to drive, gathered from multiple statements around these boards. L8R

Wait, so stage 2 will last longer than a stage 3? I figured since stage 3 is a harder clutch it would last longer too... Right now it sounds like a CM stage 3 sprung mated with a Fidanza fw will be my best bet.

 

[jsdragonsoul333]

Wait, so stage 2 will last longer than a stage 3? I figured since stage 3 is a harder clutch it would last longer too... Right now it sounds like a CM stage 3 sprung mated with a Fidanza fw will be my best bet.

Hey dude this was the setup I was seriously considering so let me know how it works out. Is there any difference in quality of the CM flywheel and the Fidanza flywheel? Other then wieght?