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2.7L Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

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76K views 24 replies 21 participants last post by  fishinking86  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Coutesy of OZTuscani

Tools Needed:

Pliers
Ratchet
10mm Socket
12mm Socket

This DIY assumes you have already removed the Throttle Body & Upper Intake Manifold (which I covered in different DIYs). My pics show the Lower Intake Manifold removed as well, that is not necessary to just remove the valve covers.

REAR VALVE COVER REMOVAL

Since it is hardest, we will start with the valve cover in the back. First, remove the 3 plug wires from the valve cover (remember where they go!). If you do not have Hotwires installed you will not have to worry about unbolting the grounding straps.

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Now remove the vacuum hose attached to the right side of the valve cover (1) & the hose connected to both valve covers (2). You can also remove the hose connected to the front valve cover to get it out of the way (3).

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You are now ready to remove the 2 – 10mm bolts that attach the timing belt cover to the top of the valve cover. You will also need to remove the large black bracket (with foam padding attached) sticking up behind the valve cover (seen better in photo 1). There are 3 – 12mm bolts holding it on below the valve cover, you can’t see them & have to feel for them. This can be somewhat difficult, but it makes removing the valve cover much easier.

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Now remove the 8 – 10mm valve cover bolts and remove the valve cover (pry gently with screwdriver if needed). When lifting the valve cover off, make sure the gasket either stays on the head or comes off with the valve cover.

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FRONT VALVE COVER REMOVAL

After the rear valve cover removal, this is a piece of cake! Again, remove the 3 plug wires (noting where they go).

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Remove the 2 – 10mm bolts that attach the timing belt cover to the top of the valve cover.

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Now remove the 8 – 10mm valve cover bolts and remove the valve cover (pry gently with screwdriver if needed). When lifting the valve cover off, make sure the gasket either stays on the head or comes off with the valve cover.

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If you are not ready to reinstall everything, I recommend covering everything up.
Here is what it looks like with both valve covers & the intake manifold removed. It is recommended to replace the gaskets since they are rubber (Cost about $30 pair from Dealer.)

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VALVE COVER REINSTALLATION

OK, now we are ready to reinstall the new valve covers! First you will want to make sure any fittings you may have removed from the old valve covers are reinstalled into the new ones. As mentioned before, you should have a set of NEW valve cover gaskets for the reinstall.

We will start with the rear valve cover. As a precaution (and completely optional) I am going to place a bead of gasket silicone on the head itself. Paying particular attention to each end where you will see a semi-circular hump & depression. The last thing you want to do is get everything back together and have a leak (especially the rear). First, flip the valve cover upside down and install the gasket, pressing it into the lip. If you find the gasket does not want to stay pressed in, you can use some silicone to help hold it. Next, place the bead of silicone on the head where the gasket will sit.

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Now you are ready to install the valve cover back on the head. Make sure the gasket is seated properly and then install the valve cover onto the head. It is a tight fit, & you kind of have to wiggle it into place. I found installing the end near the timing cover first was easier. Now you can reinstall the 8 -10mm valve cover bolts. Torque on these is only supposed to be around 4 lb.ft. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You can somewhat feel when it is tight enough, plus the valve cover will stop compressing onto the head.
Note: If for any reason you have are having trouble getting the valve cover on, check to make sure the gasket has not fallen out of the lip. If it has, you need to remove the valve cover and reinsert the gasket before continuing.

Now attach the wire loom bracket over the top of the timing cover with the holes aligned you can now reattach the 2 – 10mm bolts that attach the timing belt cover to the top edge of the valve cover.

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Now you will repeat the same steps for the front valve cover. Install the gasket into the valve cover lip, apply sealant to the head, install the valve cover and then reattach the 8 -10mm valve cover bolts & reattach the 2 – 10mm bolts that attach the timing belt cover to the top of the valve cover. This timing cover has 1 wire loom bracket that attaches with the rear bolt.

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Now with the both valve covers installed and bolted down you will want to reinstall the vacuum hose attached to the right side of the valve cover, the hose connecting both valve covers, and the hose connected to the front valve cover. There is one more vacuum hose which attaches to the right end of the back valve cover and goes to the air intake.

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Now you can reinstall the large black bracket (with the foam padding attached) behind the rear valve cover. There are 3 – 12mm bolts holding it on below the valve cover, you will have to work by “feel” here. DO NOT tighten these 3 bolts fully until after you have the upper intake manifold in place.

Lastly, reconnect the plug wires (remembering where they came from).
Here is the finished product! Be sure to check for any leaks when you start the car for the first time.

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Now you can proceed to my Upper & Lower Intake DIY :biggrin:

Enjoy
-Ryloth

V6 Valve Covers (Remove and Reinstall) - PDF - Archived
 
#2 ·
Re: DIY: V6 Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

hey im bout to polish my valve covers, but i need some help...
First is do you really need to get new rubber gaskets? will it do major leakage if not? like how realistically do u need the new gaskets? secondly what type of sealant did you use? because im havin trouble finding one that is heat resistant. so yeah that blue one u have looks pretty niffty, also lastly how do you check for leaks? just run it around the block and look for any leaking oil?
thanks
 
#3 ·
Re: DIY: V6 Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

make sure ur new gaskets come with rubber nubs that cover the dip in the head. i noticed my rocker gaskets didnt. i replaced it with my old gaskets but there seems to be a leak, but im not sure if there is or not, will fully inspect tomorrow. DUM DIY haha just kidding
 
#23 ·
Re: DIY: V6 Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

make sure ur new gaskets come with rubber nubs that cover the dip in the head. i noticed my rocker gaskets didnt.
I read this too late... :-(
I ordered a pair of valve cover gaskets from the dealer and noticed they did not have the rubber nubs, Part number is 22441-37104. But then I found this. The correct gaskets for my my car (that was built in 2002) seem to have part number 22441-37103. Also, if you search on eBay for "Tiburon 22441-37103" you get several hits with pictures of the gaskets with the nubs.
But all the dealer could say was: "The number 22441-37103 changed into 22441-37104".... Is the Hyundai parts database inaccurate or what?
 
This post has been deleted
#7 ·
Re: DIY: V6 Valve Covers (Remove and Reinstall)

Now you can reinstall the large black bracket (with the foam padding attached) behind the rear valve cover. There are 3 – 12mm bolts holding it on below the valve cover, you will have to work by “feel” here. DO NOT tighten these 3 bolts fully until after you have the upper intake manifold in place.


Enjoy
-Ryloth
do you really have to reinstall the black bracket? Does it protect your UIM from breaking in case it hits the firewall...or what?
 
#8 ·
Re: DIY: V6 Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

sorry....this is not a repost.....

How did you get those large bolt holes (for the engine cover) off? Did you just sand/dremel them all the way down?

And how did you get such a nice polish on it? I have both off right now and I just cant manage to get into all of the small cracks and it looks kinda like crap!

Someone needs to come up with a generic polishing DIY....
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY: 2.7L Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

I replaced my leaky valve cover gaskets this past weekend and followed this DIY. Great information and helpful pictures. I would recommend replacing the spark plug gaskets as well, just as a precaution. They came with my valve cover gasket set (Felpro).
 
#12 ·
Re: DIY: 2.7L Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

Hyundai says 8 ~ 10Nm (80 ~ 100kg.cm, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb.ft) torque

3 7 6
1 2
5 8 4
 
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#13 ·
Re: DIY: 2.7L Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

Hyundai says 8 ~ 10Nm (80 ~ 100kg.cm, 5.8 ~ 7.2lb.ft) torque

3 7 6
1 [====] 2
5 8 4
 
#19 ·
Re: DIY: 2.7L Valve Covers Removal & Reinstall

WORD TO THE WISE: If you do any work that requires loosening the back black bracket and taking the IM off, when reinstalling IM leave the black bracket bolts loose - this includes the bolts that hold the black bracket to the head as well as the bolts that hold the IM to the bracket. First, seat your IM and tighten bolts to spec in order below, and then tightened up the black bracket. Otherwise, you will probably get a vacuum leak.
 

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#21 ·
going through checking to make sure every thing is tight on the valve cover after installed the rear one and a bolt broke off closest to the driver even while i was thinking dont over do it!!!!.....is a screw and bolt extractor the best way to go? any exp with this? i have the valve cover installed already wishing i didn't have to take it off again over one bolt but i know it its a reality
 
#22 ·
For those curious about removing the spark plug tube seals, I removed mine using a flathead screwdriver. I put the screwdriver underneath the seal pried them out in a circular motion. Keep in mind you'll want to have new ones on hand as I destroyed most of my old ones in the process of getting them out; they are made of rubber.

To put the new ones in, I first cleaned all the oil and gunk out the area and then they just pop into the valve cover. It's kind of ***** to get them all the way in; I had to push hard all the way around until they were fully seated.
 
#24 ·
DO NOT DO THIS! they have a designated tool called a SEAL PULLER to pull these out. Easy as ever! prying them out either way can possibly and most likely cause a crack in the valve cover itself.. also another issue could be that when you do pry these suckers out, when you seat the new ones in you might have a leak issue all because you pryed them out too far!
the tool is around 12 bucks trust me worth it. besides when your're all done you can just return the tool.