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F/I Guys...New Turbo Owner Needs Your Advice!

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heratik

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, looks like I'll be firing her up for the first time this weekend. Granted, I have a few hundred miles before I even consider boosting (keeping in mind that this turbo system is not new), and about 1000 miles before I get on the clutch (brand new).

I am kind of hunting for advice from the pros in general on driving, maintaining, and just overall owning a turbo'd tibby. It can be general advice or very specific advice for my setup...I don't care...I'm just looking for wisdom and insight from people that have the experience that I don't. I'm not a kid and I have plenty of patience and restraint to do things the right way (within reasonable budget constraints), so feel free to critique the hell out of my setup so far.

Here it is...

Stealth Turbo kit
  • Master Power 60-trim turbo
  • Greddy BOV
  • Turbonetics Wastegate (5 psi spring currently installed)
  • All piping, fittings, hoses, etc.
Supporting mods
  • Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR
  • Mafterburner - Stage 1
  • ODBII reader
  • AEM UEGO Wideband (non-logging)
  • Vac/boost gauge
  • Oil pressure gauge
  • Volts gauge
  • Boombop closed catch can (will upgrade at some point)
  • Poly (?) custom motor mount inserts (made by Duffer)
  • Battery relocation to trunk (sealed...still need to get the kill switch on there)
  • NGK BKR6E-11 (1 step colder) plugs gapped to .033-.034 (as accurate as I could get)...they were cheap...need some advice on the drawbacks of using these plugs vs NGK iridiums
  • Clutchmasters stage 4 6-puck clutch (my foot will hate me after a week of driving, i'm sure)
  • Fidanza (HY5) flywheel
  • Tsudo catback
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
DownSouthGT said:
Try to get your hands on a better fuel tuner, or even hit up TC for a reflash. You need to adjust timing when boosting with a Turbo.
Change your oil 3,000 miles, but keep a check on it.
Keep an eye on your coolant and temps for a while.

These are just basic know hows.
I've came to the Tibby world from owning a very fast Eclipse GST.
Click to expand...
Thx for the write-up...will take it all into consideration.

Better fuel tuner? You mean like a standalone? What are the drawbacks of the Mafterburner Stg1?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Ok, phew...you had me worried there about even starting the car @ 5psi. This will go on my mod list for upping the boost. For the time being, I'm just happy to be boosted. :D Thanks again!
 
#4 ·
I suggest you check you oil as often as you can..

I do it almost everyday just to be sure.... One day I got lucky cuz my oil feed line busted and was leaking.... Luckily the fan thru the oil all over and on to the headers cuz I would've never known I had a leak without the smoke..

Good Luck and Happy Boosting
 
#6 ·
I think downsouth means subtract NOT add timing at anything above 8psi boost pressure. At 5psi you should be fine as long as you don't boost spike. Also Iridiums are awesome plugs, just stay away from the NGK ones as they don't hold their gap for sh*t. And whoever said they can't be gapped are just wrong, plain wrong. :)
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
YoYo said:
Also read about how turbo works and learn some ;)
Click to expand...
Cool...I'm about half way through Maximum Boost...just having a little trouble finding time to finish it. I'm definitely learning a ton about how a turbo works, matching a turbo with a particular application, etc. Good stuff.

dmdicks said:
I think downsouth means subtract NOT add timing at anything above 8psi boost pressure. At 5psi you should be fine as long as you don't boost spike. Also Iridiums are awesome plugs, just stay away from the NGK ones as they don't hold their gap for sh*t. And whoever said they can't be gapped are just wrong, plain wrong. :)
Click to expand...
Ok, will cross that timing bridge when I come to it. Regarding boost spiking, I will look into that more. I haven't heard anything bad about the NGK Iridiums yet, but I'll look into different brands since you mentioned it. Any reason they are the popular choice if they're so bad?

faus03 said:
maybe get a vac/boost gauge to check for vac leaks and to tell you when you're actually going into boost. thats if you dont have one already :D
Click to expand...
Ah crap, forgot to list my gauges. Thanks faus, updating the original post now! I have vac/boost, oil pressure, and volts. I was thinking I need EGT and oil temp still. Comments?
 
#9 ·
I would just pick up some copper spark plugs with a step colder. They don't last as long but they do work better and are cheap. The biggest plus to irdiums is that they last longer.
 
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#10 ·
dmdicks said:
I think downsouth means subtract NOT add timing at anything above 8psi boost pressure. At 5psi you should be fine as long as you don't boost spike. Also Iridiums are awesome plugs, just stay away from the NGK ones as they don't hold their gap for sh*t. And whoever said they can't be gapped are just wrong, plain wrong. :)
Click to expand...
About the plugs..... When mine came in the instructions stated not to gap them....Leave them alone...???

Any ideas
 
#11 ·
^Instructions are for wusses ;) They don't want you to gap them for fear that the idiots would break the electrode.
 
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#13 ·
About the plugs

Personally my car runs NOTICEABLY better on cheapy crap copper plugs (seriously the 3 dollar brand) and much worse on iridiums (NGK or any others), not sure why. They WILL Foul out shortly especially since youll be tuning it on this first set of plugs, so Id suggest checking them in a month once you get your tune dialed in. @5PSI you really dont have too much to worry about. Just make sure your car doesnt leak too much oil (I leak a little sometimes) and all your connections stay tight. Its a whole lot of fun, oh and always run premium like was mentioned. Ill post if I remember anything else.

Oh Im not sure how high you have your FPR set but I know mine is maxed out at 5PSI, so to save yourself some trouble you might just want to crank it and start from there. Also the UEGO is a headache to even attempt to try and tune by, so get to a dyno!
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Haha, thanks for the info indifference. I guess these plugs will be martyrs. ;)

On a sidenote, do you remember it being a b!tch to get some of the wastegate screws in? Also, did you put gaskets on all your pipe connections (wastegate connections, turbo/downpipe, etc.)? Since this is a used system, I'm just not sure. I went ahead and threw everything together with some fabbed gaskets using gasket-making material.

I have a ton of questions for you if you don't mind, Indifference. Would you mind popping in here every now and then? I'm sure that it would benefit others to see the Q&A.
 
#15 ·
Indifference126 said:
About the plugs

Personally my car runs NOTICEABLY better on cheapy crap copper plugs (seriously the 3 dollar brand) and much worse on iridiums (NGK or any others), not sure why. They WILL Foul out shortly especially since youll be tuning it on this first set of plugs, so Id suggest checking them in a month once you get your tune dialed in. @5PSI you really dont have too much to worry about. Just make sure your car doesnt leak too much oil (I leak a little sometimes) and all your connections stay tight. Its a whole lot of fun, oh and always run premium like was mentioned. Ill post if I remember anything else.

Oh Im not sure how high you have your FPR set but I know mine is maxed out at 5PSI, so to save yourself some trouble you might just want to crank it and start from there. Also the UEGO is a headache to even attempt to try and tune by, so get to a dyno!
Click to expand...
why do you say the uego is bad to tune by i just installed mine today and it seems to do just fine? other then the fact it doesnt datelog and when i get on it when i hit the higher rpms i go to an amazing 10:1 afr lol
i got to get around to tuning with it but im gonna have my roomate help.

thanks
 
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#16 ·
Heratik - I dont recall having any issues with the wastegate screws, however all my stuff was new (straight from ngm) so I dont know if that had any affect. The biggest ***** I had was pipe fitment, and that still isnt perfect but it will do fine. About the gaskets - Mine was put on at a shop with a lot of experience in turbo things so we had a lot of spare gaskets, BUT we also used a LOT of liquid gasket stuff especially on turbo itself. Im pretty sure my downpipe will never come off the turbo lol. The gasket sealer is a good idea as far as im concerned because even though the cuts were very flatt on the pipe I didnt want anything coming loose. ALSO MAKE SURE you use HIGH GRADE/TEMP SCREWS on the downpipe to turbo connection. I didnt think to do that and have one screw that is broken apart by heat but its not a problem because the connector still has 3 other screws and gasket sealer holding it together. I dont mind answering any questions man just post em up or PM me. I try to come by once every day or so so Ill answer anything I see to the best of my knowledge.

6speed - As a wideband it works fine, but trying to tune your AF out with that is extroardinarily difficult without datalogging. Im not sure if youve tried but doing WOT runs all day and trying to see your RPMS while watching that and keeping track of adjustments is a huge *****. Also it will read slightly different from a dyno sniffer. For small adjustments it works well enough, but if you stick on a turbo and have never tuned your afc your never going to balance it out due to trim changes over time and it shifting from close to open loop since you need to tune the closed loop over the entire RPM band and the open loop over the entire RPM band. If you can get a dyno to give you a flat fee for unlimited tuning on a non busy night(s) like I ddi it will make tuning exponentially easier.
 
#18 ·
SIX_SEVEN_ONE said:
So your saying that I should of gapped them..
Click to expand...
Yes. Chances are that the gap you need is going to be different than what it comes with, especially if you're boosted.
 
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#20 ·
Indifference126 said:
Heratik - I dont recall having any issues with the wastegate screws, however all my stuff was new (straight from ngm) so I dont know if that had any affect. The biggest ***** I had was pipe fitment, and that still isnt perfect but it will do fine. About the gaskets - Mine was put on at a shop with a lot of experience in turbo things so we had a lot of spare gaskets, BUT we also used a LOT of liquid gasket stuff especially on turbo itself. Im pretty sure my downpipe will never come off the turbo lol. The gasket sealer is a good idea as far as im concerned because even though the cuts were very flatt on the pipe I didnt want anything coming loose. ALSO MAKE SURE you use HIGH GRADE/TEMP SCREWS on the downpipe to turbo connection. I didnt think to do that and have one screw that is broken apart by heat but its not a problem because the connector still has 3 other screws and gasket sealer holding it together. I dont mind answering any questions man just post em up or PM me. I try to come by once every day or so so Ill answer anything I see to the best of my knowledge.

6speed - As a wideband it works fine, but trying to tune your AF out with that is extroardinarily difficult without datalogging. Im not sure if youve tried but doing WOT runs all day and trying to see your RPMS while watching that and keeping track of adjustments is a huge *****. Also it will read slightly different from a dyno sniffer. For small adjustments it works well enough, but if you stick on a turbo and have never tuned your afc your never going to balance it out due to trim changes over time and it shifting from close to open loop since you need to tune the closed loop over the entire RPM band and the open loop over the entire RPM band. If you can get a dyno to give you a flat fee for unlimited tuning on a non busy night(s) like I ddi it will make tuning exponentially easier.
Click to expand...
ahh alright i got you ya i know what you mean know i have a smt 6 its getting hooked up to so i didnt think much of the datelogging being a problem. but i gotcha now . as far as going on the dyno my school has 2 :) and i have a class coming up on it so im not to worried thanks. i thought you were saying the aem was no good lol.
 
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