It seems that the existing DIY for the ECU removal has missing photos - so I have provided an updated DIY for this.
Tools:
#2 Philips screw driver
Ratchet and 10mm socket; or a 10 mm wrench.
Flashlight
Before starting this process - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.
1) Open the glove box. Using a #2 Philips screw driver, remove three screws from the upper edge of the glove box. (See three pictures below)
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2) Close the glove box and remove the three screws under the bottom edge of the box. (See three photos below)
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3)Open the glove box again, grab both sides and pull straight down. Do not use excessive force, just one or two short pulls should pop it loose from the dash board.
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Note: After the compartment is loose, you will need to disconnect the glove box light located on the right side behind the box.
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4) For the next several steps, I found it easiest to recline the seat, lay on the floor with my head under the dash, my legs on the seat with my feet hanging over the top of the headrest. There are two wiring harnesses mounted to a metal bracket that looks like a goal post. Disconnect both plugs as shown below and remove the single screw that holds the bracket in place.
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5) This is where you will need some patience. Disconnecting the plugs from the ECU can be a bit tricky as there is not much room to get your hand between the ECU and the firewall to remove the plugs. Here is what I found to be the easiest for me. There are two bolts that hold the ECU in place; remove both of them and gently pull down on the ECU until it is loose.
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Note: There are two arrow-shaped prongs at the top of the ECU with rubber gromments that slide up into the top of the mounting bracket. In order to remove the ECU, you will need to gently pull down until the prongs pull all the way out. This can be done before removing the wiring harnesses or after; what ever is easiest for you.
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6) Now, you will need to remove the 5 wiring harnesses that are plugged into the ECU. Grab the base of the plugs, not the wires! The first one (closest to the floor) should come loose after slightly wiggling it back and forth until it is free of the ECU. The next three have a lever that secures the plug in the ECU. To remove these, you will need to feel around the top of the plug until you find a raised tab that holds the lever in the upright position. Push the tab down and rotate the locking mechanism down until the plug comes free from the ECU. Repeat this for the next two plugs. The last one (located at the top of the ECU) is similar to the first one. It can be removed by gently wiggling the plug back and forth until it free from the ECU.
The next several pictues show the different plugs from different angles to help understand how they lock in place and how they are removed.
Note: When reinstalling the ECU, be sure the levers that lock the plugs in place are in the unlocked position until the plug is pushed all the way into th ECU. If they are not, they will not stay in place and your car will likely not start.
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The ECU should now be free from the bracket and can be removed from under the dash.
Tools:
#2 Philips screw driver
Ratchet and 10mm socket; or a 10 mm wrench.
Flashlight
Before starting this process - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE.
1) Open the glove box. Using a #2 Philips screw driver, remove three screws from the upper edge of the glove box. (See three pictures below)
2) Close the glove box and remove the three screws under the bottom edge of the box. (See three photos below)
3)Open the glove box again, grab both sides and pull straight down. Do not use excessive force, just one or two short pulls should pop it loose from the dash board.
Note: After the compartment is loose, you will need to disconnect the glove box light located on the right side behind the box.
4) For the next several steps, I found it easiest to recline the seat, lay on the floor with my head under the dash, my legs on the seat with my feet hanging over the top of the headrest. There are two wiring harnesses mounted to a metal bracket that looks like a goal post. Disconnect both plugs as shown below and remove the single screw that holds the bracket in place.
5) This is where you will need some patience. Disconnecting the plugs from the ECU can be a bit tricky as there is not much room to get your hand between the ECU and the firewall to remove the plugs. Here is what I found to be the easiest for me. There are two bolts that hold the ECU in place; remove both of them and gently pull down on the ECU until it is loose.
Note: There are two arrow-shaped prongs at the top of the ECU with rubber gromments that slide up into the top of the mounting bracket. In order to remove the ECU, you will need to gently pull down until the prongs pull all the way out. This can be done before removing the wiring harnesses or after; what ever is easiest for you.
6) Now, you will need to remove the 5 wiring harnesses that are plugged into the ECU. Grab the base of the plugs, not the wires! The first one (closest to the floor) should come loose after slightly wiggling it back and forth until it is free of the ECU. The next three have a lever that secures the plug in the ECU. To remove these, you will need to feel around the top of the plug until you find a raised tab that holds the lever in the upright position. Push the tab down and rotate the locking mechanism down until the plug comes free from the ECU. Repeat this for the next two plugs. The last one (located at the top of the ECU) is similar to the first one. It can be removed by gently wiggling the plug back and forth until it free from the ECU.
The next several pictues show the different plugs from different angles to help understand how they lock in place and how they are removed.
Note: When reinstalling the ECU, be sure the levers that lock the plugs in place are in the unlocked position until the plug is pushed all the way into th ECU. If they are not, they will not stay in place and your car will likely not start.
The ECU should now be free from the bracket and can be removed from under the dash.
