Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Alpine Stage 1 turbo problem

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
M

Mikers411

· Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I really could use some help here. I was driving my tib around today and the car was boosting great, no signs of any trouble. Parked the car, came back and started it about 20 minutes later. As I'm driving home about 10 minutes into the ride the car throws a CEL then turns itself off. I turn it on again, drive for about 15 minutes, turns itself off again. Turn onto my road, kills itself again. Turn into my driveway and it dies again. I grab my OBD II scanner and I've got 3 codes:

P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure High Input
P0176? System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0335 Crank Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

I had just received a replacement Unichip from Alpine as my first one had failed, and this was day 2 of having the new one in. I know the wiring is correct, so I'm looking for any other ideas to go with. I didn't have a multimeter tonight to check the ground, so that's first on the agenda for tomorrow (probably take it straight to the battery to be sure). Any thoughts?
 
#2 ·
I definately recommend running all brown wires from the Unichp to the battery negative. That's the best ground source. Your MAP high input means your Turbo Module clamp needs slight adjustment. There is a little trim pot screw next to the plastic barb on the turbo module. Reset your ECU and turn that trim pot 3 times clockwise. If that doesn't take away the MAP high input repeat the above steps till it does. They are supposed to be preset from Unichip but we've noticed a few that weren't.
As for your 'too rich' code it seems that on some cars the secondary O2 will throw this code. Throw a 18mm Spark Plug non-fouler between the 2nd O2 and exhaust pipe and problem solved.
 
#3 ·
your crank position sensor may have just ****'ed itself. which means you need to go have the dealer replace it. your car will not run without it and will die if you ever get it to start because of it. tibby's that havent had them replaced have a bad problem with melting them due to inadequate heat shielding around the input to the block. I had my turbo do the same thing because that sensor went out (check your general sensors fuse in your engine bay as well it tends to blow that fuse). dont try and drive it to the dealer b/c it will 99% likely die again... so have them tow you there
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I adjusted the screw like you mentioned, and haven't thrown the MAP CEL again. However, my car will drive about a 1/4 mile then die, then repeat the process over and over. Sometimes it almost dies, then brings itself back to life, but still throws that P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor CEL. I'm going to take the Unichip out of the equation later by jumping the blue/green and black/white wires to see if the problem continues...
 
#5 ·
Mikers411 said:
I adjusted the screw like you mentioned, and haven't thrown the MAP CEL again. However, my car will drive about a 1/4 mile then die, then repeat the process over and over. Sometimes it almost dies, then brings itself back to life, but still throws that P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor CEL. I'm going to take the Unichip out of the equation later by jumping the blue/green and black/white wires to see if the problem continues...
Click to expand...
Did you solder that connection between the UniChip wiring and the Crankshaft Position sensor? If not please do. Also make sure the sensor or wiring isn't touching the turbo or exhaust manifold, since it is relatively close. Out of curiosity, which wires did you tap on the CPS?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Red2.0Tib said:
Did you solder that connection between the UniChip wiring and the Crankshaft Position sensor? If not please do. Also make sure the sensor or wiring isn't touching the turbo or exhaust manifold, since it is relatively close. Out of curiosity, which wires did you tap on the CPS?
Click to expand...
All wires have been soldered, and the only line tapped on the crank position sensor was the pink wire. When I took the wiring back to stock I came up with the same results, car randomly turning itself off.
 
#7 ·
Mikers411 said:
All wires have been soldered, and the only line tapped on the crank position sensor was the pink wire. When I took the wiring back to stock I came up with the same results, car randomly turning itself off.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, which model UniChip do you have, the newest one? I have the previous model and I had to splice 1 or 2 wires into the pink wire as well as another wire into another wire(the colors eludes me right now), but I have pics somewhere. It sounds to me like you're getting intermittent signal from the Crankshaft Sensor, so either a grounding issue, a bad Sensor, or maybe the sensor needs some cleaning at the connection point. Wish there was more for me to interject with, but that's about all I got.....
 
#8 · (Edited)
OH MY GOD

I'm having the SAME problem with the crank sensor right now and the car turning itself off. I even changed the sensor at first, I thought it was the problem.

These unichips are really **** it seems.

PLEASE update if anything.

Im noticing the central turbo clamp is cracking thus causing the turbo to rotate by itself maybe?

and it is now touching the sensor wiring which it never did before. :3_confuse
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Red2.0Tib said:
Gotcha, which model UniChip do you have, the newest one? I have the previous model and I had to splice 1 or 2 wires into the pink wire as well as another wire into another wire(the colors eludes me right now), but I have pics somewhere. It sounds to me like you're getting intermittent signal from the Crankshaft Sensor, so either a grounding issue, a bad Sensor, or maybe the sensor needs some cleaning at the connection point. Wish there was more for me to interject with, but that's about all I got.....
Click to expand...
The only wire I had to tap was the pink one and connected that with a blue wire going one way, and a green wire going the other. I don't think it's a grounding issue as when I took the wiring back to stock before I didn't have this problem, and since the wiring is bypassing the Unichip it shouldn't be grounding out.

Kewlkat, I just received a new Unichip and it seems that it's not the problem this time. Last time the car would not start with the Unichip wired in, but started fine without it. Now it starts fine either way, just doesn't like to run very long. Same thing though, let me know if you find your problem. I've double and triple checked the plug to make sure it wasn't corroded, and it really seems like there's nothing else it could be besides the sensor....
 
#11 ·
Well the first time the sensor got shorted somehow.

I replaced it. Ran fine for about 25 minutes, then stopped again.

I would reset the Unichip and ECU then it would magically start working again. For like 10 mins, and if I got on the boost ---- bam, car would stop, crank sensor failure.

I'm taking out this kit tomorrow.

I will get the SMT6+turbobox with dual rail adaptor.

And I'm buying this from Atelier HP, WHO BY THE WAY is local to me and will be the shop who will SUPPLY the newer rail kits and whatnot to alpine, for their extreme kits. If they ever come out.
 
#20 ·
I have the Unichip on the Beta II SC kit and have had problems simliar to yours. It finally seems to be working OK now but who knows how long till it screws up again?

Here are a couple of options I am considering to replace the Unichip. AEM says their controller will be available in June.

http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=116

The MAPECU-2 is available now, if it does what they say it can it might be the answer.

http://www.mapecu.co.nz/map2.html
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
About this Discussion
19 Replies
11 Participants
Last post:
larryinkc
Hyundai Tiburon Forums
posts
3.2M
members
61K
Since
2004
A forum community dedicated to Hyundai Tiburon owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, troubleshooting, reviews, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Tiburon General Discussion Exterior V6 - Naturally Aspirated Parts for Sale Wheel, Tire, & Suspension