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Battery Relocation

33K views 44 replies 38 participants last post by  Rufo Delfino  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hey guys and gals, I'm new to posting, but I've been reading these forums for a while now. I figured it is due time that i contribute something back to this site. This DIY is a chance for you to relocate your battery to your trunk and to get more room under your hood for other mods(custom CAI, MSD 4 ignition, intercooler piping.. etc). What this does: it offsets the weight of the driver being in the car. Batteries weigh about 45 to 50lbs. If you move your 50lb battery to your trunk, this will equal a 100lb shift in weight. Why you ask? i personally have noticed a difference in the handeling ability on my stock suspension. the back end of the car slightly gives a little more, and kinda drifts when taking corners really fast. mmmm...fast cornering. I will not be held responsible for any damage to you, your vehicle, your tools, any void in your warranty, basically, do this at your own risk.

What you need: (This is what i used, im sure ya'll can find a cheaper way to do this)
-1 new (+) terminal connection
-1 new ground wire 2ga or 4ga (36")
-1 buss connector (optional)
-1 plastic marine battery box (get at NAPA or advanced auto parts or autozone...etc.)
-lots of zip ties to make it look pretty
-approximately 20ft of 2ga or 4ga wire please measure how much you are going to use before you even start this mod!!!! (this is to route your existing (+) connection to where your battery is going to be)(get this at home depot or lowes or sponsors)
-tool set to remove splash guard, battery, battery mount, foot rest, trim running along your door sill and trunk trim pieces
-it was recommended by a newtiburon.com member to use a breaker or fuse, but i did this w/o one and havent had any problems

Ok here we go:
REMOVAL
1. Remove your battery do not put your battery on the concrete, i dont know why, but this will drain your battery
2. Remove the negative wire that is bolted to the battery mount
3. Remove your battery mount
4. Remove your drivers side splash guard (refer to resonator removal DIY, now would be a good time to do this if you haven't already...takes like 15minutes)
5. Remove your foot rest and triangle trim piece next to to it
6. Remove the door sill plastic piece (tuscani replacement piece)
7. Remove your trunk matting particle board stuff
8. Remove the (lookin from the back to the front) right side trim piece and the cargo cover

INSTALLATION(it will take you longer to read this than to actually do it)
1. Route the (+) wire extension from the old terminal connection to the trunk via the following path and zip tie it along the way:

-->down thru the hole where the stock resonator intake sat (sits if you havent removed the resonator yet... better git 'er done!) :3_devil_w

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--> then alongside the headlight wire bundle inside your fenderwell

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-->thru the conduit on the door that your auto window and auto locks wire bundle run thru, or you could go thru the firewall...somwhere

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--> into the cab where your foot rest sits

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--> then run it in the little space you have alongside your seat mounts(you might hafta lift your carpet a little bit) OR if you do not have enough room nex tot he bundle of other wires, remove your seat and run it under the seat via the alternate route

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-->then lift up your back seat by pushing the two tabs in and lifting up and run the wire under the seat or behind the panel next to the seat

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-->next climb up into your trunkspace and route the wire alond the little trough that looks like it was made to route this cable thru.

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-->next run it along the right side fenderwell (inside you trunk) and out thru the jackstand hole

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WHEW! that was a pain

2. Now, mount the straps that came with the battery box to the car(requires 4 drilled holes) Make sure you drill holes that are smaller than the screws so they wont be too loose

3. Put your trunk matting back into your trunk so you can mark where the straps are going to come thru. Now mark it and cut the slots out with a carpet knife or dremel tool

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4. Find a good ground to connect your new 36" ground lead to and attach it. I used the passenger side seat belt mount and mounting bolt.

5. Connect your new (+) terminal connection to the long wire you just routed

6. Put your battery in the battery box and place it in the middle of the straps

7. Connect the (-) to the battery

8. Connect the (+) to the battery

9. Put the lid on and strap it down

10. Now, connect the other end of the long wire to your old (+) connection or buss connection. I am still waiting on autozone to get my buss connector, thats why i have mine rigged that way in the pictures.

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11. Put everything back together (fenderwell, seat(s), door sill etc.

12. Make sure you didnt leave any tools laying around, pick up your stuff and go drive...fast.

If you have any questions, let me know.
 
#4 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

thats a nice write up great pics too. very easy to follow. this will come in handy with the new NGM turbo setup coming out soon. thanx man. keep up the good work
 
#5 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

Anyone know if the trunk is ventilated? It wouldn't be a good idea to put your battery inside the car unless the compartment is properly ventilated. I can't remember if the fumes are toxic or explosive.
 
#6 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

The fumes are corrosive AND explosive. Everyone I know goes to a "dry cell" type battery for a relocation like this. Like an Optima.
 
#7 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

even dry cell batteries are hazardous. the hazard is in the terminal connections themselves as well. cars w/out true trunks, like the hatchbacked tiburon should use a sealed battery box with a vent tube routed outside of the cabin...the actual battery type doesn't matter in this case.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

hmmm I like the idea of relocating the battery as also the new BMW 1 has the battery in the trunk. in the spare tire space...

it should be installed in the spare tire space to have a low center of gravitiy and near to the rear axle for dynamic stability...
 
#9 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

In regards to the fumes and the hazardous effects of having a battery in the trunk here goes. By the way,I am an electrician that specializes in large batteries (the size of a room). Typical lead acid batteries (what we have) will gas when electricity is passed through them (charging/discharging). This is due to electrolysis (I'm a certified electrolysis oxygen generator technician too). When electricity is passed through water containing an electrolite (the acid) this causes two water molecules to break into two hydrogen and one oxygen gas molicule (2 H20->2 H2 + O2). These gasses will build up in an nonventilated area until the hydrogen concentration becomes flammable at 4%. If it doesn't burn and continues the build up the hydrogen will become explosive at 8%. This is the same H2 and O2 that forces a space shuttle into outerspace, so it's something to take seriously. To make things better battery manufactures typically put antimony in the battery's positive plates for structural purposes that tends to produce a toxic and deadly stybine gas when heavily charged this will also build up in the vehicle. Many people will switch to a gel style battery which is great for elliminating acid spills but when heavily charged this battery will produce hydrogen gas and other toxic gasses as well. Also, routing a tube outside will do nothing more than help concentrate these dangerous gasses inside the tube. In my opinion it will help create an explosion, unless you install something to force the air out of the tube. In that matter never even smoke above your battery in the engine compartment, because it can explode is your face. To counteract these effects called "Battery Phenomina" all cars have some sort of vent in the rear of the passenger compantment that will give aids in the solution to this problem. The purpose of this vent it to give air an easy exit from the vehicle when ventilating from outside air (using the heater/air conditioner/vent and drawing air from outside the car). This will provide air flow into the vehicle, through the cab, past the battery box then outside. If you choose to move your battery to any enclosed space you will need some sort of ventilation system, and if you put your battery in the passenger compartment your stock ventilation system will work fine. Drive your car frequently roll your windows down or use your heater/air conditioner/vents without recirculating. This will change out the air in your car and remove unwanted gasses, just pretend someone farted and do the same thing. However if the vehicle will be stored with the windows up for an extended period of time disconnect the battery to remove the electrolysis effect. With this said, make an educated decision of what you want to do. I personnaly will move the battery to the rear of any sports car I own. Just do it right and know what needs to be done about the gasses.
 
#39 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

In regards to the fumes and the hazardous effects of having a battery in the trunk here goes. By the way,I am an electrician that specializes in large batteries (the size of a room). Typical lead acid batteries (what we have) will gas when electricity is passed through them (charging/discharging). This is due to electrolysis (I'm a certified electrolysis oxygen generator technician too). When electricity is passed through water containing an electrolite (the acid) this causes two water molecules to break into two hydrogen and one oxygen gas molicule (2 H20->2 H2 + O2). These gasses will build up in an nonventilated area until the hydrogen concentration becomes flammable at 4%. If it doesn't burn and continues the build up the hydrogen will become explosive at 8%. This is the same H2 and O2 that forces a space shuttle into outerspace, so it's something to take seriously. To make things better battery manufactures typically put antimony in the battery's positive plates for structural purposes that tends to produce a toxic and deadly stybine gas when heavily charged this will also build up in the vehicle. Many people will switch to a gel style battery which is great for elliminating acid spills but when heavily charged this battery will produce hydrogen gas and other toxic gasses as well. Also, routing a tube outside will do nothing more than help concentrate these dangerous gasses inside the tube. In my opinion it will help create an explosion, unless you install something to force the air out of the tube. In that matter never even smoke above your battery in the engine compartment, because it can explode is your face. To counteract these effects called "Battery Phenomina" all cars have some sort of vent in the rear of the passenger compantment that will give aids in the solution to this problem. The purpose of this vent it to give air an easy exit from the vehicle when ventilating from outside air (using the heater/air conditioner/vent and drawing air from outside the car). This will provide air flow into the vehicle, through the cab, past the battery box then outside. If you choose to move your battery to any enclosed space you will need some sort of ventilation system, and if you put your battery in the passenger compartment your stock ventilation system will work fine. Drive your car frequently roll your windows down or use your heater/air conditioner/vents without recirculating. This will change out the air in your car and remove unwanted gasses, just pretend someone farted and do the same thing. However if the vehicle will be stored with the windows up for an extended period of time disconnect the battery to remove the electrolysis effect. With this said, make an educated decision of what you want to do. I personnaly will move the battery to the rear of any sports car I own. Just do it right and know what needs to be done about the gasses.
Insanely well said! Haha
 
#10 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

c-man said:
even dry cell batteries are hazardous. the hazard is in the terminal connections themselves as well. cars w/out true trunks, like the hatchbacked tiburon should use a sealed battery box with a vent tube routed outside of the cabin...the actual battery type doesn't matter in this case.

:3_yes: thats right hehehe and about this DIY you can pass the battery cable under the car to get it to the trunk too is more easy and work great
 
#11 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

hammerhead said:
hmmm I like the idea of relocating the battery as also the new BMW 1 has the battery in the trunk. in the spare tire space...

it should be installed in the spare tire space to have a low center of gravitiy and near to the rear axle for dynamic stability...

i believe all bmws have rear located batteries...they also have ventilated trunks to provide air circulation as well as a breather tube to direct the concentrated gasses toward the vents.
 
#12 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

Finally got around to mounting the battery in the trunk with a GREAT frame I got off of ebay.
The Frame is securely bolted to the spare tire well floor. This makes the Battery frame HOT neg. DoN"T forget that!
On top on the positive side have a 120 amp breaker.
This is as far as I got today still need to run the cable to the front.
Image
 
#14 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

YoMike said:
Finally got around to mounting the battery in the trunk with a GREAT frame I got off of ebay.
Image
WOW! looks really good. the only reason i didnt mount mine in the spare tire rack is b/c my tibby is a daily driver. Plus there are huge pot holes in the road going to/from work. Gotta have a spare. BTW how much did you pay for your mount?
 
#15 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

just did the diy today anyone experience bad startups or anything? Not that I have but just curious if any of you guys have. I also used 2awg wire with a 4awg ground, I need to get a box for it soon though only have the batt. just sitting in the trunk.
 
#17 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

leber066 said:
Also, routing a tube outside will do nothing more than help concentrate these dangerous gasses inside the tube. In my opinion it will help create an explosion, unless you install something to force the air out of the tube.
makes sense... The engine compartment is already ventilated, so no need for tubes. As for the battery in the trunk.. i can attest to the fact that a lotta small airplanes have batteries located behind the passenger cabin. These generally have at least 2 tubes that lead out the bottom of the aircraft;, one for Ram air coming in, and one creating a suction. The tubes are cut at a 45 degree angle, one facing open to the front, one facing open to the rear.
 
#19 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

On rwd, the battery as far back helps with traction. But since we have fwd, the weight is better up front. If you must relocate the battery from the engine bay, try to keep the battery in front of the rear wheels if possible and on the passenger side for better weight distribution.
 
#20 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

Just adding my Two cents. I grew up racing at the drag strip. Now I grew up on RWD cars and trucks too. NHRA states that to race at a NHRA track if your battery is relocated to the truck or in a hatchback that the battery needs to be in a sealed box and vented outside the car. If it is not vented then it must be sealed off from the passenger compartment, ie a rear fire wall. This is due to the gases and such. I'm not sure about IHRA rules but just FYI if you guys plan on going to the track with a battery relocated and not in a sealed box.
 
#21 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

Just get a sealed battery like optima and you dont have to worry on the ventilation... Thats why I also have an optima battery in my car..... ( only reason I got it..)
 
#22 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

YoMike said:
Finally got around to mounting the battery in the trunk with a GREAT frame I got off of ebay.
The Frame is securely bolted to the spare tire well floor. This makes the Battery frame HOT neg. DoN"T forget that!
On top on the positive side have a 120 amp breaker.
This is as far as I got today still need to run the cable to the front.
Image


will the spare tire cover still go back on with that installed? Also where did you get that mount from(do you have a link to the seller?) and what did it cost? I am going to do this soon reagrdless I am just asking.
 
#23 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

Duffer said:
The fumes are corrosive AND explosive. Everyone I know goes to a "dry cell" type battery for a relocation like this. Like an Optima.
optimas arn't dry cell....they are gel cell....
 
#24 ·
Re: DIY battery relocation to the trunk

Optima FAQ said:
Does OPTIMA ever Gas?
When used with a properly regulated constant voltage charging system (such as an alternator) the OPTIMA will usually not emit hydrogen gas. However, gassing can occur when charging at higher voltage levels or in extreme high temperature conditions. In automotive applications this typically will not happen if the alternator/regulator stay below 15 volts.

Most gel batteries have a much higher internal resistance, meaning they will not be able to deliver and receive current as efficiently. This is especially apparent at higher amperage levels. For example, most gel batteries will not work successfully in engine starting applications.
There is still risk of hydrogen emissions, which is why a vented box is required in the NHRA rules, (amongst others), regardless if its a wet or dry cell.