Did you use standard size bearings? Did you have the crank machined?

 

Used some OEM ones i bought online since no local parts shop had them for my car lol. And no, the crank was fine, no sort of grooves or anything, i started hearing the noise and immediately drove to the nearest place that i could work on it to minimize the damage to anything.

Should i have used oil or the bearing grease (know the general name, not the exact name), i used oil to lubricate them though.

 

Connecting rod cap bolt proper torque is a 2 step process

step 1: 12-15 ftlbs
step 2: tighten an additional 90-94 degrees

Edit:

Connecting rod bearing oil clearance specs: (0.0020 in. or less/3.937 in.) 0.018 ~ 0.036 mm (0.0007 ~ 0.0014 in.) Minimum spec: 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)

hope this helps

 

O loads more, where'd you find this? I looked at the shop manual pdf that i found on the forums and it said 20-24.

Guess i'll take it apart again tomorrow and see what happens lol.

 

HMAservice.com. Make a free account-it will give you all the info you need.

 

There a specific browser i should use for this? I click on the link for the user agreement and just get a blank page, tried on both Safari and FireFox.:3_sadley:

oil should be fine, did you check to see if it turned over with a breaker bar before you put the head back on?

I checked it to make sure that it moved after i did the first bad bering set to make sure it still turned (it did) and then went on to replace the rest, but after seeing that Luke says to use 12lb.ft-15lb.ft it makes me think that since i put them all at 20lb.ft that they're just too tight and thats the problem.

 

oil should be fine, did you check to see if it turned over with a breaker bar before you put the head back on?

 

im confused as to what you are talking about lol...

the connecting rod bearings are in the bottom end and turning it without the heads just creates a headache for re timing lol

 

i used Mitchell's lol one of the perks of working at a shop hmaservice is good tho!!!

 

my thought was that he took the engine out of the car? lol every time i have done an engine rebuilt i put a torque wrench on it after the bottom end is together to see what the turning torque is...maybe im weird LOL

 

Wasn't able to do that since the closest place i had near me when i noticed the problem was my friends wood shop, he said i could work on it there for a bit but not for long since they have restrictions on what can and can't be done there. Right now, just trying to get it running so i can get it home and check everything else and hope that nothing else got messed up lol.

Did you put the bearing caps back on properly? If not you may have spun a bearing and the assembly is jammed now.

Also the specs are 12-15ft/lbs + 90deg turn...that will end up being about 20ft/lbs...take things apart and double check!

Yeah, they're on right, had a picture reference of before and after for the caps. I only spun it once (after putting in the first set of new ones) to make sure it turned fine, and it did so i did the rest of them and put everything back together and then tried to start the car and nothing happened. Took the spark plugs off also and no luck either.

Also, bearings in my honest opinion are kinda idiot proof since they only go in one way, least for the Tib anyways lol. :3_bier:

 

Did you put the bearing caps back on properly? If not you may have spun a bearing and the assembly is jammed now.

Also the specs are 12-15ft/lbs + 90deg turn...that will end up being about 20ft/lbs...take things apart and double check!

 

Wow wait,, i honestly didnt look but this is in the i4 section! sorry guys my torques were off.

the torque for the i4 connecting rod bearings is 37-39ft lbs!! not 20

sorry i honestly didnt look to see what section

 

well that makes a big difference lol.....but if he torqued them to only 20, why would it not turn over?

 

i am thinking that one has spun and bound up the crank, like slow 2K2GT said, makes sense unless there is another issue holding it up...

was the car in gear and a tire on the ground? lol
,

 

Lol, was up till 3am last night trying to get it to turn on... tried many things; put it in gear and tried to start it, tried to jump it, moved it a bit in neutral and then tried to start it, took the spark plugs off and tried to start it... pretty much anything that a persons desperate creativity can come up with at 3am. :3_chubby:

I read on Google to jack one side up, turn the steering wheel and then try to start it? Kinda ignored it till you brought it up...

 

Last year I helped rebuilt a pontiac 400 and had a similar issue on one of the rod bearings. Each time it was torqued the engine would lock-up. It turned out to be that one of the bearing insert sets was just a couple thou too wide; when torqued would pinch the fillet on the edge of the rod journal. Used a deburring tool to take the corner of the bearing insert down a tad and the engine turned smooth as glass.

 

Were they factory spec? I checked all the new bearings i used and they were all the exact same size. The engine also turned the first time after using the new bearings with no issues... But anyways, i got the torque wrong so i gotta take it apart again so i might as well check for this! :3_bier:

 

K... So spent the afternoon taking the oil pan off and checking the bearings, etc. And no luck on anything. Some of the bearings had a like blackish line (no grooves/signs of wear on the new bearings) which I'm guessing is from some sort of movement but I tried turning it by hand and no luck either. Any ideas on how to fix it? I actually considered towing the car to a mechanic today....

 

Did you replace all of the rod bearing? Did you spin the crank while you were under there?
Sounds to me that you got an undersized bearing ... which would be thicker and bind on a stock journal diameter.

 

I've tried to spin it both times that i've been under there, currently have it all taken apart waiting for my friend who's a quote on quote professional with engines to look at it to get the final opinion on what to do lol.

Also, don't think that the bearings are undersized or anything... They're OME bearings, even came in the blue Hyundai/Kia box. :3_shiny:

 

Lol, yeah, they're still attached. I unbolt them a bit and the entire engine moves, i start tightening them up and it starts to get harder and harder to move by hand.

This obviously wasn't a problem before lol. Could it be the lack of oil?

 

Did you do just one rod or have you taken all of the caps off?

If all caps were removed did you mark which cap came off each rod?

If not marked are you sure you put back the correct caps with each rod?

Did you assemble like this picture? Notches on same side?

 

I did all the bearings, and yes, they're all put on properly (i always take a picture when messing around with engine stuff to help me with the reassembly latter). I also did each bearing set one by one so i'm sure all the caps are placed correctly lol. And by notches, do you mean the tab insert thing from the bearings? I have them on like how the picture shows them, that picture off hmaservice? :3_wink:

Also, i'm turning the engine with a 3/8 ratchet with a 22 on it attached to a long iron tube, its around the same length as my 1/2 torque wrench, the car isn't the high off the ground so don't have that much room for a longer bar lol.

no if you oiled up the bearings that should be enough,,,

i have a 4cyl motor sitting in my basement that has been stripped down to a long block for about a year now and i can turn it by hand..

i think there is one thing we are forgetting here tho... you shouldnt be able to turn it by hand anyways, its really hard to turn the motor by hand when you are also turning the cam's

how is your timing belt and the condition of your cylinder head

Heads fine its the first thing i took apart to check the tappets since i knew they were an easier job then the bearings... ended up being the bearings anyways. :3_sadley:

As for the timing belt, it's maybe 3 weeks old, with maybe 2 weeks of actual use. And your motors is taken apart.. mine is in the car... with everything attached to it... lifted up in the air lol.


Also, a general question to you guys, I was doing some further looking on other forums while eating diner and ran into someone who said to make the engine turn by taping the starter (for a brief second) so that the engine can rotate a bit by itself. They said they did this on their car with every few turns of the bolts until they were at the proper torque and that it solved their issue. I wanna try doing this tomorrow but just wanna get a second opinion to make sure i don't mess anything up. :3_bier:

 

no if you oiled up the bearings that should be enough,,,

i have a 4cyl motor sitting in my basement that has been stripped down to a long block for about a year now and i can turn it by hand..

i think there is one thing we are forgetting here tho... you shouldnt be able to turn it by hand anyways, its really hard to turn the motor by hand when you are also turning the cam's

how is your timing belt and the condition of your cylinder head

 

fully dressed engine is impossible to turn by hand, but possible with a 1/2" ratchet and 22mm socket

 

thats what im getting at, even with the rod caps removed it should be very difficult to turn the motor.. im thinking there may be another issue...

possibly a piston is stuck against a valve due to a broken or slipped timing belt..

do you have any pics of what the bearings looked like when you took them out op? is it possible you hear valve slap and not bearing knock?

 

When i first checked the bearings two had play and two were very tight, a sign of worn bearings no? I can maybe get a picture of the old bearings if i can find them in the trash lol... Although, they looked just like the new ones except that they were a lot thinner. Also, belt to my knowledge hasn't snapped, i changed it out maybe 3 weeks ago, condition of the old belt scared the f out of me after i decided to check it.

Here is the thing OP, if there was damage to your connecting rod bearings there may be damage to your main bearings and thrust bearings as well. Some engines have the mains/thrust bearings built together however ours just slip in beside the crank, I would spend the extra money and do everything while you are down there at once.

Like MidnightMotoring said, an engine will be impossible to turn by hand when the timing belt is connected because you would have to over power the valvetrain, which is no small feat with even OEM parts in the head.

Something clearly isnt right here.

Try grabbing each connecting rod and bringing each piston down just a little and back up. It would be a lot easier to see where the binding is happening if the timing belt was off and you could turn the crank by hand.

The engine turns, just doesn't turn when i put the factory torque on it. I had them on 20lb.ft before (got this torque off the shop manual i found on the forums, found out its actually 36-39 after looking at hmaservice) and it wouldn't turn, so right now i just took them apart and have been slowly turning it by hand after i do certain things to make sure it turns (it does), i had to stop working it today around 2 due to some nasty weather, however i plan on tightening them tomorrow and trying what i mentioned before with taping the starter.

 

Here is the thing OP, if there was damage to your connecting rod bearings there may be damage to your main bearings and thrust bearings as well. Some engines have the mains/thrust bearings built together however ours just slip in beside the crank, I would spend the extra money and do everything while you are down there at once.

Like MidnightMotoring said, an engine will be impossible to turn by hand when the timing belt is connected because you would have to over power the valvetrain, which is no small feat with even OEM parts in the head.

Something clearly isnt right here.

Try grabbing each connecting rod and bringing each piston down just a little and back up. It would be a lot easier to see where the binding is happening if the timing belt was off and you could turn the crank by hand.

 

i realize that your motor is in the car i was just using it as a comparison, the motor in my basement is not oiled but it still moves like butter the pistons and rods are still fully torqued.

i have not heard of the starter technique maybe someone else has lol

 

Aww Luke i was hoping you'd at least say try it lol.


So many posts all at once! XD