Remember, a lot of it is not "how much maximum" but how long at a given HP and torque level. Some engine components wear faster at higher engine power output.

You might be able to make 1000 HP for a few hours (100 miles) without needing a rebuild.

You might be able to make 700 HP for a week (500 miles) without needing a rebuild.

You might be able to make 500 HP for a month (1K miles).

A 300 HP 2.0L beta II might run for 2 plus years / 50K+ miles).

A stock 135 HP 2.0L beta II will probably run for 10+ years / 100K miles.

Also, with pushing more power, things that might be weak on one engine might break, while another 2.0 Beta II never has a problem.

So, "FACT" for one particular engine may not be "FACT" for yours.

 

I have 116k miles n/a Runs good as new! Stock internals.

 

its all in the tune... but its not unheard of to be running 400 fairly comfortably for awhile on stock internals.... our i4's are mega strong

 

PM dmdicks or JonGTR. Both have run unopened Beta blocks while boosting.

Thing is though, trying to find someone who has daily driven a 300HPish Beta-powered car for a significant (2 years+) amount of time may be tricky - and to answer your question, our internals are not forged, but the block is iron.

I have 100% confidence (whatever that's worth to you) that with good tuning (meaning that your AFRs are kept under control) and turbo choice, 300HP should be no issue to an unopened Beta engine as far as reliability is concerned.

If I were to do it, I would upgrade my pistons just for peace of mind, and room to play in the future, because as all boosted guys/gals know...PSI is more addictive than crack, and you WILL want more.

-BRR

 

its all in the tune....if you run lean or detonate....that is what will destroy the motor....not boost per se.

 

I have NEVER heard of anyone blowing up their beta from boost alone. They always spike and run lean.

Maybe our blocks are invincible to the level of boost? they do make a deisel verson of our cars, which is just pure boost and knocking.

 

my plan is to be right around 300. im just going to lower compression. im pretty confident in our motors. not sure if im getting 1.8 pistons or a head spacer but its for sure the best bang for the buck.

 

For a FACT that number is never a set-in-stone value. All depends on setup, conditions, milage, and individual parts in each application. Just lettin you know. The most anyone can give you is a general idea, which I believe you already have.

 

ok well how about this my car has 18k miles on it still new basically..... has a head gasket. so am i safe to push up to 300hp? eventually im going to change pistons.

 

keyan i hope your kidding....


the 1.6 diesel (which i have seen and taken pics of...if i can get them off of my phone) uses the smallest turbo ever...AR of .88 and runs like 10psi

lets not also forget that diesel is a totally different beast when it comes to boost levels. being as its compressed and not ignited.


i have to say that 300hp or even that same amount of torque...would just be rediculous! unless your an slicks all the time 1st and 2nd gear would be usless. hence why the mazda speed three reduces boost till third gear.

 

Like everyone said its all in the tuning AND design of the stock engine. The Beta 1 and 2 engine have been known for years to hold a significant amout of boost properly tuned. For FACTS just tear apart a Beta 1 or 2 engine and look at the components. The Rods, Pistons and Crank are VERY strong pieces. Hyundai designed them to last well beyond the 100,000 mile stock warranty. Apply boost along with a proper tune and there's no reason why the engine still won't last 100,000 miles.
I have been running over 300bhp for over 2 years now with zero engine problems. JonGTR has been pushing over 270whp for a while now as well with zero engine problems. Its a FACT the Beta can handle power, but you need to ask yourself is it a FACT that you can handle the power and tuning necessary to make that power?

 

damn near nailed that on the head!

 

yeah, its a fact that no two engines will fail at the exact same moment, HP level, or specific part....

 

I have 125k and my car has been through alot. Several runs at the drag strip, n/a mods, and DD duty for the past 3 years. I have never doubted it for one second, and its going to be boosted by the end of the year

edit: derek, a .88 a/r isn't that small. the td04s use a smaller one than that. A .88 is up to about a t3 turbo.

 

im getting it tuned....so what is a safe range i should have it at? with a head gasket and stock internals?

 

Keep the boost to a max of 12psi and tune it well. Don't go off of HP in that regard. Your stock compression is 10.1:1. Much too high to run big amounts of boost. For safety and DD, I recommend a max of 12psi and running about ~ 11.3-11.5 AFR, this is to help cool the charge mixture a big more to help keep heat down.

 

I dynoed my car at 270whp and 268tq on 15psi. The next day, I turned it up to 17psi. So I'm definately running more. The dyno took place in Oct 2006. I had been running 12-15psi for 6 months before that.
So I've been boosting 17psi for a year and a half, and ~13psi for several months before that.

The STANDALONE you chose has the biggest affect on your reliability. Standalone.........

 

^ how about the persons ability to tune...hell even the shop they choose...

 

I mentioned the standalone because most people try to cheap out and buying the cheapest piggyback they can find. Then end up wasting their money on that, a car that drives like chit, and eventually a blown motor.

 

I myself would love to boost my car, the thing is, where I live there is literally nobody anywhere around that will tune my car... At least a shop that has any REAL experience. There are no real performance shops around.

It sucks. I cannot go turbo because I believe it deletes one cat. -->Illegal
Soo.. when the supercharger comes available, that's an option for me. I wouldn't be able to afford pistons, (thinking about buying SC with tax refund) so I would too remain stock if I boost.

So my question to you guys is, when it comes to tuning, would that be a one time deal. Like if I installed the SC, and tuned it. Would I have to keep monitoring/tuning it from time to time, or can I tune it once and leave it be?

 

...when the supercharger comes available, that's an option for me. I wouldn't be able to afford pistons, (thinking about buying SC with tax refund) so I would too remain stock if I boost.

So my question to you guys is, when it comes to tuning, would that be a one time deal.

Yes, once you get it tuned using a piggyback ECU , it will be fine forever. as long as you don't majorly change anything like pulley diameter, major exhaust upgrades, stuff like that. If you're pretty much stock and buy a kit from NGM or someone reputable, they'll probably supply a piggyback ECU already tuned.

I'm trying to tune on my own (Alpine S/C on my Elantra), and it does seem to be an art. The tuning on the Unichip piggyback that came with the kit is horrible.

 

You could turbo your car in CA just have to make an up pipe and mount the turbo where the battery would be. That way you would still have your OEM Primary Cat in place and the turbo would come after it. Just like the single turbo setup the V6 guys use. It takes creative piping but it can be done.

 

Oh, That's good information guys, certainly shines light on a possible F/I setup for me in the future

 

^ damn thats pretty good....if you can keep your fuel trims like that.....that shows that the ecu is not fighting it...

the best of course would be a reflashed ecu.

 

why a reflashed ECU, so you could still have zero tuning ability should you want to change or upgrade a part of your setup?

I dont believe that a reflashed ECU is the answer to all boosting issues but it may help to run larger injectors...but should something ever need to be changed in the tune then you need to find a shop that is able to tune a Hyundai ECU

 

That's the best thing about the FIC. You tune it yourself, you can run larger injectors and the FIC is able to cut them back to the same fuel amount as the stock injectors for all NA running without having any CEL problems or startup or idle issues. It also enables you to tune for low boost closed loop conditions to keep your short and long term fuel trim near zero so your open loop boosted A/F ratio stays where you want it. Once I got it set up it has worked great on my SC Tib.