Sure it will run but.... It will shake and run like $hit. If the timing belt came off and you started the car its got a bent valve. Good luck, lesson learned.

 

how can i check to make sure tis a valve before i go ripping appart the head?

 

Get the timing fixed somehow, and if it's still shaking, you need to take off the head to diagnose it. You can only find out so much without digging into it.

 

eh that sucks ive checked the timing like 5 times and the engine keeps starting but its still shaking. I just dont want to pull the head for sure becasue then that automatically means you need a new gasket, oil , antifreeze.

What does everyone think of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...PI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT&viewitem=&item=120111649537&rd=1

 

How many miles? go to Hyundai? I dunno

 

ok so i can drive the car i tested it out it drives noramlly except it shakes alot and i here a loud clicking sound in the head. Is it bent valves for sure?

 

... Is it bent valves for sure?

ouch .... head hurts now. I did a quick interdimensional jump to the inside of your engine ... bents valves for sure. You must have jogged it before you noticed the belt was off ... so sorry.



Do a compression check ... no or low compression ... pull the head and get a valve job.

 

Do they do that at Autozone? LOL When I bought my compression checker the people working there didn't even know what I was talking about.... guess the Autozone here just sucks.

 

haha i dont know if they do it someone told me they did , I guess ill find out. how much did your compression checker cost you?How does it work?

 

20 bucks, it's simple! especially for a 4-banger. just take out your fuel pump fuse or relay, unplug your spark plug wires and take out your plugs, and screw the checker into the cylinder, and crank your car a couple of times.

 

Ah that sound awesome I should get one fo those where did you get it?

So it has some kind of thing you can screw into your spark plug hole? and then you crank it by hand right?

 

yeah you screw it in like a spark plug after you disable the spark plug and the fuel (don't want to flood it).

then you crank it like you're starting the car, do it a couple of times til the needle on the gauge stops rising. that's your compression number. if one is lower than the rest, or you're not compressing anything, something's wrong. it should be generally around 150-225, but that's very broad. just a general idea.

 

O ok thanks dude . Im guessing if the valves are bent there going to be alot less then 150 right? Do you know somewhere comon i can get one? like autozone or strause auto?

 

yeah either one will have it it's just a gauge showing psi with a tube with a screw on the end that you put into the spark plug hole. they'll know what you want.

 

ah i see. One more question im not sure if i got this. So its all screwed on you disabled the fuel pump and the spark plugs. Then you crank it, now is that by hand or crank it with the key? And will the gauge stay at a certain psi? Cause if im in the car cranking it that would mean i Need someone to check the gauge. Haha so if you can clarify that it would be great and much appriciated

 

Ferra valves. Good brand.

If you go for these don't buy them until the real checking, and when you know for sure that are valves (I think like others from here that yes, it is) wait to know if you need over sized valves or stock diameter ones.

Don't run the car... if any valve is completely destroyed during running you will need more than new gaskets, valves, etc.

good luck

 

So you ran or just moved your car without the timing belt connected? Are you sure it was the timing belt? That's not something that is quick and easy to get off and on. Are you sure you don't mean an accessory belt like the power steering or alternator?
It seems to me that if you don't know how to do a compression check what are you doing with messing with your timing belt in the first place?

 

You do it with the key but I guess you could just trip the starter relay with the car in "ON" if you can't find anyone to help! It will stay as high as it goes til you hit the release button on the gauge, so I guess, yes you could do it by yourself, it's just easier and faster with someone helping.

 

arent u the same guy that toasted his top end a little while ago trying to put in an adjustable cam sprocket??????

 

no i didint run the car with out the timing belt on im not an idiot. the ud pullety was off and when i moved the car the lower sprocket slipped forward it happens when you shut off the car becasue theres alot of force and then it just stops. so when i shut off the car the timing belt slipped of the bottom sprocket. And jes i bent my valves before like last year . I wasnt even installing a cam sprocket i was just mesing around and i didnt tighten the belt hard enough and it skipped teeth.

 

Ok did the test cylinders 1 2 3 all have compression at a little above 150psi cylinder 4 has 0 so i guess that means number 4 needs new valves. Does this mean i should buy only 2 valves? are the other ones ok?

150 psi is a little over 10:1 compression

 

4 valves per cylinder.... could be intake or exhaust valves, I'd think.

 

i thought when you bent valves it was only the intake valves?

 

i have no idea which valve it would be, but yeah there's your problem... i would just take it apart and look at it at this point, you're going to have to anyway.

 

yea im glad i know for sure. At least now i know what actions to take.

Where the best place to get a head gasket? I only see them on ebay and they are all from korea, I found valves for a descent price. Does anyone know the best and cheapest place to get valves and a head gasket

 

Our exhaust valves are basicly non interference...they're set too far into the head to hit the piston..... only the intake valves will hit......
before you tear everything appart hook compressed air up through the spark plug hole... listen to the intake and to the exhaust for a hissing sound... that'll tell ya which is bent for sure
just buy new valves from the dealership. they'll be cheeper than the ferras and you dont need ferras for your application. a ferra valve will still bend if hit with a piston. you may also need new valve guides if those were damaged... new valve shim's to get your clearances back to stock and gaskets and that should do er.

 

I dont know waht valves shims are. Last time i changed the whole head not the valves. Why would i need to replace these shims could they be damaged or do you change them anytime you change valves?

 

maybe you should just try to get a used head again. If done wrong a valve job can basically destroy your whole engine. That's if it isn't already destroyed.

 

Get a used head ... faster and cheaper, and like Dmdicks said ... screw it up and the whole engine is gone. This will also give you a chance to send this one in and get a good three angle valve job (don't ask what it means, just get a it. ). Then the next time this happens your set ...

 

its deff not chaeper to get a head, it will cost about 150 min for a head and $60 for a head gasket that bring it to 210 minimum gasket and valves will cost me $80

and no the engine is not already ruined please , dont over dramatize the siutation the car still run so duh its not ruined.

Its not my style to just take the easy route i want to learn thats the ideau live and u learn.

So again if anyone can explain to me what valve shims are and why they are important, i know that they space the valves or something liek that. And ive heard of a 3 angle valve job before will the valves not bend after that or not make contact or something?

 

lets say you do go with 2 new intake valves and a head gasket.
Valve shims are there so that you can get an exact clearance between the top of the valve and the camshaft. if the clearance is too large the cam smacks the top of the lifter and makes noise. if it's too small the valve may stay partially open when it's supposed to be closed and you get leakage.... therefore no power.
so you've got to tear the head off...remove your 2 bent intake valves. which may be stuck in the valve guides.... you'll need to rent a valve spring compressor. next you'll need 2 new valve guides... the old ones will need to be pressed out and the new ones pressed in. next you'll need to clean up your piston because it'll probably have some damage as well...
from there you get your new intake valves, new stem seals for the valves because old ones cant be reused. then you need to install the new valves and check the clearance. purchase 2 new valve shims, dissasemble everything, install the valve shims. reassemble... by the time you've done this you'll be closer to $300.
from a dealership you're looking at 15 bux a valve plus your head gasket plus 10 bux a shim plus 10 bux each for the valve stem seals plus about 40 bux each for the valve guides for install.
you'll still need a valve job on those 2 valves anyways and on and on and on... just but a used head and save the hassle... perhaps you can combine this head with your other trashed one and make 1 good head?