I know this is mainly for the v6 naturally aspirated but I felt that most of the info is good general knowledge for anyone trying to get the most of their N/A car. Let me know if you guys approve or I can remove this thread. Thanks -Caconman424
Alright, so I may not be a automotive expert, but this is what ive seen that you can possibly do to the tib to get the most power possible out of the v6 naturally (normally) aspirated without going F/I.
This can also help those out who don't know what to do next...
Heres a mod list:
Intake - A CAI will net more hp, but if you are scared of hydrolock stick with SRI. Most common are Injen and AEM.
Exhaust - Alright, unless you really want to go custom, or have a need to be custom (say.. a single exhaust for your turbo or something) then getting a pre-fabb'd one is probably your best bet. There are plenty of exhausts out there from companies like Borla, Injen, DC Sports, SSA, and quite a few more.
Headers - Headers replace the stock exhaust manifolds which have pre-cats inside... Headers can be relatively cheap, but they don't come ceramic coated and/or aren't equal length. Well equal length headers make more power due to less turbulence and I don't think anyone is making equal length headers at the moment... The only ones that were I think were Hotshots and RPW. Most headers for our car have the little bend to get the rear header which can cause a bit of restriction, so the only ones I've seen so far that have fixed that are SFR headers, which cost about double of what most other headers do. A few others that are most commonly used are DC sports and SSA. RIPP has been (atleast I see them on their site) producing long tube, equal length headers but they cost a little over 1,000 bucks.
Cams - The stock cams in our cars are pretty mild so you can get some others that will be more aggressive and make more power. Well, no one actually makes cams for our car, but you can get the stock ones reground by Crower (which is what is most commonly done). NGM doesn't really regrind cams unless hes building a long block for one of his customers (or so I have been told). Crane does regrinds as well. I believe they are more expensive than Crower though.. but they use more aggressive specs unless you send your own specs to Crower.
Ported heads - Ported heads basically are just that... heads that are ported. What is done is someone will use a dremel-like tool and basically start porting the valves and ports. This allows for more air flow, which in turn means POWUH. You can either buy NGM's heads, or go to a shop. Only difference is you can get heads from NGM that replace basically the valves with oversized ones with new springs and all. You can buy the lightweight springs and valves and such and have a shop put them on for you if you don't want to get the NGM heads... but they can get pricey. NGM also will fully CNC machine your heads too...
BBTB (Big bore throttle body) - Its basically a ported throttle body, which again allows more air much like the ported heads. You won't see THAT much of a difference, but if you are trying to go for the most power possible, then you will probably want to invest in it, especially with a higher hp level where its hard to squeeze out some ponies with anything else... Be sure to get the upper intake manifold port matched or else its a waste, unless you get the NGM Stg 4 IM.
Stg IV Upper IM - The Stage 4 upper intake manifold is made by NGM, which is a custom fabricated sheet metal intake for the most part. It doesn't really net that much horsepower, but really opens up the top end unlike the stock intake, which tends to rape the power curve after about 5.5k rpm. If you get cams, this won't really do much until a turbo is slapped in, due to the fact that all superchargers replace the intake manifold.
Ported Lower IM - This is the stock lower intake manifold ported out to match the runners on the upper intake manifold. If you don't port-match the lower intake manifold, it won't be worth spending cash on the Stg 4 upper intake manifold.
Lightweight/Underdrive Pulleys - These basically either weigh less that stock, which then reduces rotational mass on the crank, rendering you some extra wheel horse power, or you can get the underdrive pulleys, which basically "under" drives your accessories, like A/C, netting you more whp. Ark sells a 2 pc kit that has a light weight crank pulley and power steering pulley.
Plugs + Wires - Not really a huge power gain here...
Fuel Tuner - Like a Neo, which allows you to modify the signal from the MAF sensor (which meters the air coming through your intake to "tell" your ecu how much fuel to inject, the stock fuel injectors can handle about 220-230 whp so you don't need to drop bank on new ones) and basically add or reduce fuel to get a nice A/F ratio (air fuel ratio). For N/A applications, its generally a good idea to keep that A/F around 12.5-13.0.
Motor mounts - This doesn't necessarily make more horsepower, but it keeps your motor from hitting your firewall, possibly damaging things.. It also helps you get a few more horses to the ground. You can get either polyurethane mounts or solid billet aluminum mounts... What is most commonly done is just a aluminum mount in the front, and a poly mount in the back to help reduce vibration because you will notice more vibrations in the cabin when you get new mounts... Being N/A, you probably wont need to worry about an aluminum mount just yet. You can get the aluminum mounts from NGM, and the poly ones from places like SFR.
Lightweight flywheel and clutch - This won't increase horsepower, but it will definitely help get it to the ground. A light weight flywheel will allow your motor to rev up quicker, and the clutch will help you keep that power to the ground. Theres a ton of companies out there that sell clutches and such for our car, but the most common are Fidanza, Clutchmasters, and ACT. You can search for these on eBay or almost any other tiburon vendor. You can't stick with the stocker for long because it will take a dump on your chest with too much more power over stock.. You could use it but it will start to slip and die before long.
Flashed ECU - PowerChipGroup.com (This link shouldn't be illegal because there are no sponsors on this forum that do them for the v6) will reflash your ecu to raise your rev limiter, allowing you to make more power (that is if you have cams and such, or else you won't be doing anything cause stock IM is a huge bottleneck with stock cams) and can do stuff like ignition timing, etc...
Note:
Thats about it... If you want any power over 220whp or so, F/I is MUCH cheaper, but for those who want to stay in a certain class or something like that, this is what you can do.
Raising Compression:
Well... I have recently learned of the ross racing 11.0:1 pistons... and that they also do custom orders... so if you want to get some of these... High compression pistons FTW! You will somehow need to work with your closed loop tune because it will run lean when you first start to get on it pretty hard before it switches to open loop... which means detonation. BAD. I think the mapecu2 allows you to control ignition timing so you could control it that way, along with the Hydra EMS.
Weight Reduction:
- You could possibly get lightweight pistons and connecting rods but again that will cost big bucks to get a shop to do for you. This would free up some weight off the crank thus allowing a faster rev, which obviously means faster track times.
- If you want the fastest track time for a N/A tib, you will need to do a lot of weight reduction... A very good place to start with is the rims. A basic rule of thumb is, for every pound of rotational mass, is equivalent to 8 pounds of static mass. Meaning if you had a rim that weight 1 more lb, it would be like putting 8 lbs in the trunk, but since you have 4 rims, that would be like putting 32 lbs in the trunk. Another rule of thumb is, for every 100 pounds shaved from your cars weight, you can shave off a tenth of a second in the quarter. So getting 15 lb rims will definitely benefit over the stockers.
- If you just got out of the crazy house, you can also put on light weight rotors, as someone has suggested, putting the Elantra rotors on, which are an inch smaller, but also weigh 5 lbs less.. So, that would be like shaving 160 lbs off! (theoretically lol) (5 lbs x 4 rotors = 20 lbs, 20 lbs x 8 (rotational mass converted to static mass) would be like 160 pounds!!!). Id only do this if your car is a drag car because smaller rotors = slower stopping. You would also need to replace the calipers since the rotors are smaller... (about 1 inch). Or just don't drive like a complete moron on the street.
- You can also take your A/C and Power steering pump off. This will basically just free up your crank and render more whp and will free up a little weight.
- Other weight reduction can be: Carbon fiber hood and latch. I believe the stock hood is 40 lbs or so, and the cf one is only 15 lbs or so... I don't know about the hatch just yet.
Other Stuff:
There are no ITB kits for the v6... but there are universal, modular kits out there that someone could easily get to work with the tib if they had an intake manifold made...
Alright, so I may not be a automotive expert, but this is what ive seen that you can possibly do to the tib to get the most power possible out of the v6 naturally (normally) aspirated without going F/I.
This can also help those out who don't know what to do next...
Heres a mod list:
Intake - A CAI will net more hp, but if you are scared of hydrolock stick with SRI. Most common are Injen and AEM.
Exhaust - Alright, unless you really want to go custom, or have a need to be custom (say.. a single exhaust for your turbo or something) then getting a pre-fabb'd one is probably your best bet. There are plenty of exhausts out there from companies like Borla, Injen, DC Sports, SSA, and quite a few more.
Headers - Headers replace the stock exhaust manifolds which have pre-cats inside... Headers can be relatively cheap, but they don't come ceramic coated and/or aren't equal length. Well equal length headers make more power due to less turbulence and I don't think anyone is making equal length headers at the moment... The only ones that were I think were Hotshots and RPW. Most headers for our car have the little bend to get the rear header which can cause a bit of restriction, so the only ones I've seen so far that have fixed that are SFR headers, which cost about double of what most other headers do. A few others that are most commonly used are DC sports and SSA. RIPP has been (atleast I see them on their site) producing long tube, equal length headers but they cost a little over 1,000 bucks.
Cams - The stock cams in our cars are pretty mild so you can get some others that will be more aggressive and make more power. Well, no one actually makes cams for our car, but you can get the stock ones reground by Crower (which is what is most commonly done). NGM doesn't really regrind cams unless hes building a long block for one of his customers (or so I have been told). Crane does regrinds as well. I believe they are more expensive than Crower though.. but they use more aggressive specs unless you send your own specs to Crower.
Ported heads - Ported heads basically are just that... heads that are ported. What is done is someone will use a dremel-like tool and basically start porting the valves and ports. This allows for more air flow, which in turn means POWUH. You can either buy NGM's heads, or go to a shop. Only difference is you can get heads from NGM that replace basically the valves with oversized ones with new springs and all. You can buy the lightweight springs and valves and such and have a shop put them on for you if you don't want to get the NGM heads... but they can get pricey. NGM also will fully CNC machine your heads too...
BBTB (Big bore throttle body) - Its basically a ported throttle body, which again allows more air much like the ported heads. You won't see THAT much of a difference, but if you are trying to go for the most power possible, then you will probably want to invest in it, especially with a higher hp level where its hard to squeeze out some ponies with anything else... Be sure to get the upper intake manifold port matched or else its a waste, unless you get the NGM Stg 4 IM.
Stg IV Upper IM - The Stage 4 upper intake manifold is made by NGM, which is a custom fabricated sheet metal intake for the most part. It doesn't really net that much horsepower, but really opens up the top end unlike the stock intake, which tends to rape the power curve after about 5.5k rpm. If you get cams, this won't really do much until a turbo is slapped in, due to the fact that all superchargers replace the intake manifold.
Ported Lower IM - This is the stock lower intake manifold ported out to match the runners on the upper intake manifold. If you don't port-match the lower intake manifold, it won't be worth spending cash on the Stg 4 upper intake manifold.
Lightweight/Underdrive Pulleys - These basically either weigh less that stock, which then reduces rotational mass on the crank, rendering you some extra wheel horse power, or you can get the underdrive pulleys, which basically "under" drives your accessories, like A/C, netting you more whp. Ark sells a 2 pc kit that has a light weight crank pulley and power steering pulley.
Plugs + Wires - Not really a huge power gain here...
Fuel Tuner - Like a Neo, which allows you to modify the signal from the MAF sensor (which meters the air coming through your intake to "tell" your ecu how much fuel to inject, the stock fuel injectors can handle about 220-230 whp so you don't need to drop bank on new ones) and basically add or reduce fuel to get a nice A/F ratio (air fuel ratio). For N/A applications, its generally a good idea to keep that A/F around 12.5-13.0.
Motor mounts - This doesn't necessarily make more horsepower, but it keeps your motor from hitting your firewall, possibly damaging things.. It also helps you get a few more horses to the ground. You can get either polyurethane mounts or solid billet aluminum mounts... What is most commonly done is just a aluminum mount in the front, and a poly mount in the back to help reduce vibration because you will notice more vibrations in the cabin when you get new mounts... Being N/A, you probably wont need to worry about an aluminum mount just yet. You can get the aluminum mounts from NGM, and the poly ones from places like SFR.
Lightweight flywheel and clutch - This won't increase horsepower, but it will definitely help get it to the ground. A light weight flywheel will allow your motor to rev up quicker, and the clutch will help you keep that power to the ground. Theres a ton of companies out there that sell clutches and such for our car, but the most common are Fidanza, Clutchmasters, and ACT. You can search for these on eBay or almost any other tiburon vendor. You can't stick with the stocker for long because it will take a dump on your chest with too much more power over stock.. You could use it but it will start to slip and die before long.
Flashed ECU - PowerChipGroup.com (This link shouldn't be illegal because there are no sponsors on this forum that do them for the v6) will reflash your ecu to raise your rev limiter, allowing you to make more power (that is if you have cams and such, or else you won't be doing anything cause stock IM is a huge bottleneck with stock cams) and can do stuff like ignition timing, etc...
Note:
Thats about it... If you want any power over 220whp or so, F/I is MUCH cheaper, but for those who want to stay in a certain class or something like that, this is what you can do.
Raising Compression:
Well... I have recently learned of the ross racing 11.0:1 pistons... and that they also do custom orders... so if you want to get some of these... High compression pistons FTW! You will somehow need to work with your closed loop tune because it will run lean when you first start to get on it pretty hard before it switches to open loop... which means detonation. BAD. I think the mapecu2 allows you to control ignition timing so you could control it that way, along with the Hydra EMS.
Weight Reduction:
- You could possibly get lightweight pistons and connecting rods but again that will cost big bucks to get a shop to do for you. This would free up some weight off the crank thus allowing a faster rev, which obviously means faster track times.
- If you want the fastest track time for a N/A tib, you will need to do a lot of weight reduction... A very good place to start with is the rims. A basic rule of thumb is, for every pound of rotational mass, is equivalent to 8 pounds of static mass. Meaning if you had a rim that weight 1 more lb, it would be like putting 8 lbs in the trunk, but since you have 4 rims, that would be like putting 32 lbs in the trunk. Another rule of thumb is, for every 100 pounds shaved from your cars weight, you can shave off a tenth of a second in the quarter. So getting 15 lb rims will definitely benefit over the stockers.
- If you just got out of the crazy house, you can also put on light weight rotors, as someone has suggested, putting the Elantra rotors on, which are an inch smaller, but also weigh 5 lbs less.. So, that would be like shaving 160 lbs off! (theoretically lol) (5 lbs x 4 rotors = 20 lbs, 20 lbs x 8 (rotational mass converted to static mass) would be like 160 pounds!!!). Id only do this if your car is a drag car because smaller rotors = slower stopping. You would also need to replace the calipers since the rotors are smaller... (about 1 inch). Or just don't drive like a complete moron on the street.
- You can also take your A/C and Power steering pump off. This will basically just free up your crank and render more whp and will free up a little weight.
- Other weight reduction can be: Carbon fiber hood and latch. I believe the stock hood is 40 lbs or so, and the cf one is only 15 lbs or so... I don't know about the hatch just yet.
Other Stuff:
There are no ITB kits for the v6... but there are universal, modular kits out there that someone could easily get to work with the tib if they had an intake manifold made...
