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mayday mayday need help!

2.5K views 21 replies 14 participants last post by  L-ski  
#1 ·
i rolled and pulled my fenders today and also did the camber -1 on rear fenders. when installing the hub adapters 20mm, everything was going as planned. then i hit a snag, when placing the wheel on, the studs did not allow the rim to sit next to the adapter. my question is should i buy the 30 or 35mm adapters? i dont know if ichiba makes that size of adapter. the reason i want to buy a bigger adapter is to hide the existing studs because i need clearance or should i just stay w/out adapters? my setup is xxr 521 35 offset, 1.6 inch drop, 215/40/18. where are the wheel gods when you need them!
 
#6 · (Edited)
after you place the adapter on get a sharpe and mark the oem studs remove the adapter and cut them on the mark you made put adapter back on bolt it up and the wheel will be flush with the adapter bolt it together and no more gap.....
 
#5 ·
I've never used a wheel adapter before, but just from the pic it looks like the stock wheel studs are too long and won't allow the wheel to sit flush with the adapter.
 
#7 ·
I don't mean to add bad news on top of bad news, but your adapters are not hubcentric. With a +20mm offset than what your wheel has now, you may (most likely) start to feel vibrations at higher speeds. It looks like you are going to have a combined offset of +15 for an offset. Good luck.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Its ok that they are not hubcentric you will have to be more aware of wheel centering and torquing.

if you do end up cutting the OEM studs i would be very careful. you want to be able to remove the adapter again so you can get at your brakes and wheel bearings in the future.

if you do decide to cut then install a thread chaser or re threader before cutting, then remove the chaser, doing this will ensure that the thread is maintained after cutting


Sry i haven't had my coffee yet this morning so i might have been all over the place
 
#9 ·
After you place the adapter on you need to cut the the old studs off.. Just do like jvtib said mark the old studs with a sharpie and then remove the new one and cut the old ones down
 
#13 ·
Very adamant that you rethread after they are cut or you will possibly cross thread going on or they may not even thread up. just wanted to throw my 2 cents in. also want to add that the acorn style lug nuts keep the wheel pretty center so you may get lucky and not feel alot of vibration. hand tighten 2 so its square and then tighten them up and torque to 100 foot pounds.
 
#19 ·
dont know much about adapters, but could the issue have been solved by putting about 10mm of washer or something onto each stud of the original hub,
then put the 20mm spacer on infront of the washers?
seems like a better solution than actually cutting the original stubs.
just wondering if that would work..
 
#20 ·
Well, I've heard talk about something similar, like double stacking a 5mm spacer under an adapter, and it just seems to me, as well as others as being totally unsafe. I mean, having an adapter alone is kind of pushing the envelope of safety as is..
 
#21 · (Edited)
Lol oh yeah. Nothing about my idea is safe but I figured itd work while he waited for the bigger adapters.
Also drilling slots into the back of the wheels to match the 10mm of extended original stud would be something id consider.
I just really dont like the idea of actually cutting the original studs.
 
#22 ·
You can always buy new studs if you want to go back to stock or mess something up... I cut mine for the same reason as the OP. Not really a big deal. You don't really need "re-thread" them either. If you use a dremel to grind down the cut portion (the tip, if you will) into a slight cone shape, you won't have any issues getting the nut on or off.

Mine are not hub centric either and my car has not blown up as everyone seems to think will happen. I don't know why everyone gets their undies in a bunch about hub centric adapters.