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wajoubaz_tib

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Im planning to go with nitrous, but i don't really know the difference between a wet and a dry system, i need it plain and simple because i've read some articles which i understood nothing from! that was my first question, what is the difference?!

My second question is that what should i install or what shouldn't i install with my nitrous kit?

untill now i have an AEM CAI (or just buying one actually ) + exhaust + MSD wires and Denso Iridium Sparkplugs! What else do u think would be a good investment but not 2 expensive?!

Last, which kit should i go with? ZEX or NOS? or what other options do i have? and how bad can a 75shot nitrous affect my engine?!
 
you really need to learn a lot more about nitrous before you jump into it. you can't just play with it, or you will tear your car up. i researched for at least a month, reading on it every day, before i took the plunge.

btw, a dry kit sprays directly into your intake and a wet kit sprays into the combustion chamber with a mixture of fuel
 
4ndream said:
btw, a dry kit sprays directly into your intake and a wet kit sprays into the combustion chamber with a mixture of fuel
Actually, they both can spray into your intake, or can both spray into your intake runners. The difference is wether the fuel is fed from your injectors (dry) or mixed directly with the nitrous from the nitrous nozzle (wet).
 
http://www.nitrousworld.com


READ.

here is some info from the site:

The Four Rules of using Nitrous.

1. Never spray more than 50% over your stock horsepower. (on a stock engine)
2. Always use Colder Spark plugs. (at least 1 stage colder for every 75 HP)
3. Always use a stronger fuel pump. (dont rely on the stock fuel pump).
4. Be sure to use Premium Fuel !



1. Adequate fuel pressure and delivery are the key to successful nitrous systems. Be sure to use a high pressure fuel pump, don't rely on the stock fuel pump even if the instructions on the nitrous kit says its ok. There are many types of upgrade pumps that can be used on most efi cars. The easiest to work with are the in-line pumps. MSD makes a great pump for use with power adders and it sells for just around $130. The part number is (2225) MSD High pressure electric fuel pump, 43 GPH.

2. Fuel Quality is also very important. Be sure to use 92 octane pump gas whenever you use nitrous. If you are fine tuning your system, use a high quality octane booster like the kind made by NOS, Off road formula. It can boost your octane rating by up to 7 points!

3. Engine upgrades are not necessary for most low power nitrous systems. I suggest that you do not spray more than 50% over your stock horsepower.. IE: if your stock engine makes 100hp, then dont spray more than 50HP worth of nitrous. Be aware that if you have regular cast pistons (most stock engines do), then DO NOT plan to use more than 125 hp of nitrous (on a v8). If you risk using more, you can easily melt your pistons.

4. Spark plugs. DO NOT USE STOCK SPARK PLUGS WITH NITROUS! NGK sells really good spark plugs for almost any car in the world. They are the V-Racing series. I can get these spark plugs delivered to your door, just E-mail your vehicle information to me and I'll reply as fast as possible. I recomend using plugs with NON- PROJECTED NOSE, but if you cannot find those for your car, you can use the V-Racing plugs that are one heat range colder than stock for anything below 75 HP.

5. Timing should be retared at least +/- 1 degree for every 50 HP of nitrous used. If your vehicle is distributorless, and you want to spray more than 50 HP, then you can use an MSD DIGITAL ignition system that is specifically desinged for vehicles without distributors. For the rest of you, just adjust your distributor using a timing light from the auto parts store. Extra note: some low horsepower nitrous kits do not require any timing adjustments, but be aware that you must use the highest octane fuel possible.

6. Synthetic Oil is not required for use with nitrous. But I suggest that if you want to keep everything ultra lubricated while under the extra load while using nitrous... use MOBIL 1 full synthetic motor oil. Or if you dont like Mobil 1, then use whatever brand you want, as long as its full synthetic.

7. Manual Transmission cars should be aware of an issue concerning these kinds of trasmisions. The factory rev limiters in most modern cars cut the injector pulse rate when the redline is reached.. this can cause a lean condition while using nitrous. To avoid any potential problems, I suggest using an MSD Window switch along with an MSD ignition system. This device and be used to control exactly at what rpm the nitrous can spray, and at what rpm it will stop.. Hopefully you set it to stop BEFORE the factory rev limiter kicks in!

8. Automatic Transmission cars dont have any kind of limiter problems because on most modern cars the ECU will shift into the next gear before the limiter is hit. No Window switch is necessary as a safety precation, but you should be aware that nitrous shouldnt be applied before 2500 rpms. The solution to that problem is solved simply by adding a manual push-button activation switch inline with the WOT switch.. to spray the nitrous, two conditions must be met, the gas pedeal is at WOT, and the manual switch is enganged.

9. Relays should be used with any solenoids and fuel pumps that you install. Also, if you are adding a remote bottle opener and/or a bottle warmer, you should also use good relays for those. I have purchased some relays and harnesses at PEP BOYS for a fairly good price, and if they ever break, you can just walk in and buy a new one for cheap! Just ask for a fuel pump relay for a 1993 Ford Mustang, and you'll have exactly what you'll need for any nitrous electrical components.



*Warning: Always read the manual that came with your nitrous kit.
Follow any additional instructions supplied there-in.
Nitrousworld.com is not responsible for any damage
you may cause due to use or mis-use wether accidental or intentionally
caused as a result of following these instructions.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
That was helpfull information, but is it really that tough to get into nitrogen tuneing, i mean i have recently put some effort to know about it, and about the usage of it, some kits come as automatic sprayers which spray when u push full throttle others are manual... for a biggener which would be better?! manual or automatic sprayer?! and if i was going with the 75 shot?! should i go with sprakplugs that are 2 stages colder or 1 stage colder?! i mean im really serious about going with nitrous any help and previous experiance about problems and stuff like that is appriciated!
 
you will want to use the automatic sprayer that only works when you hit WOT.

Also, you will want a wet kit.

And you can use the 1 stage colder for 75 shot however lots of people with the v6 tibs are using 2 stages colder .. the part # for the 1 stage colder plugs are : NGK BKR6E-11 & the 2 stage colder is NGK BKR7E-11

the -11 is optional however if you get the straight NGK BKR6E you will have to gap them yourself.


:)
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
David Seale said:
sorry to hijack, but wajoubaz, any recent pics? ive only seen a few of the car with the rims, lambo doors and whatever. i just love your car, you need to post more pictures.
Here you go bro, check all updates here, at my car domain page, although u won't find many cause im haveing money problems! OH WELL!

www.cardomain.com/id/wajoubaz_tib
 
From what I heard from people here is to think twice before using nitrous. Dry kits are more popular and I think they are safer as well.. Of course, if you use it right. Nevertheless, i don't know much about nitrous. Btw, welcome back wajouz_tib.. I'm going to .sa next week - are you there?
 
incubus said:
........... Nevertheless, i don't know much about nitrous. ...........

Wet kits are ok IF you have a good fuel pump and you dont make some silly mistakes during the install... such as not clamping the FPR nitrous reference line... there are also other critical factors associated with the nitrous reference line that I don't plan to discuss... (we will let the non-believers find out for themselves ! ) LOL


ANyhow, I like wet kits because of Point # 7 that I made in my earlier post... the one thing I did not mention is that wet kits provide their own fuel supply, therefore reducing the problem of running lean when you hit the limiter... a dry kit however, cannot do this and you will run lean and BOOM !

:)
 
the Tib V-6 rev limiter does not cut fuel...it kills the ignition instead........
 
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