Maybe it's just me... but I really don't think the stock engine will be able to handle 100-shot...

I'd even use 50 with a degree of trepidation. The highest I've heard anyone running is 75... and even then, you never know the consequences...

... but I could be totally wrong...

 

I would go with a 75 shot, single fogger, with an upgraded fuel pump.

 

to get 100hp with a sc your talking about $3-4K or more
to get 100hp with nitrous probably less than 1000
the supercharger will increase wear rate all the time you drive but the nitrous will only wear the engine when you use it.
if something goes wrong with the nitrous BOOOM!!!!
if something goes wrong with the sc its usually a leaky hose and its not gonna blow up as fast.
also the sc is gonna cost you a little more gas
but the nitrous is $30 a tank plus the gas.

 

so you think that I should go with the nos... my goal is only 250 whp

 

Nitrous. Don't say nos, thats a brand name. But it's up to you. Why do you want nitrous? What's it going to be used for? If daily driving, then a s/c would be better, as the nitrous doesn't activate til WOT. S/C kicks in at what, like 2500rpms. So the safe bet would be a s/c. Also, your not allowed to drive around with the nitrous running. I believe it's illegal.

 

nawwz is cooool yooo

if u want 250whp on a daily driver that u want that power all the time get the damn s/c or turbo.

if u wanna be cool and have shots of power at the push of a button then get nawwwz. but i sure as hell hope u know how to use it...and judging by ur questions i think its safe to say u dont.

so ur best bet is to get forced induction.

 

Well The Kit I will be getting through him is nos, and I would be having it proffesionly done with a progressive set up... I think that means that dont have to know how to use it right? the guy Im getting it through actually said screw the progressive just get WOT, but since Id rather play it safe I said progressive...am I correct in assuming that as long as its set up properly and Im only planning to use it when some punk in an integra tries me, that I wouldnt have any problems? or is there a trick to using progressive as well?...cause your correct I have no clue how to use it.

 

yeah don't get nitrous and if you do get a 50shot.
a 100 shot will surely blow you up without a fuel pump and injectors.
the stock spark plugs will melt.
a progressive system is the only way to go. it would start nitrous spray at say 35 hp and then it will kick up the nitrous pressure until its spraying 100 shot. safer for the car.
the surge from a direct shot of 100 nitrous would blow everything sky high

 

omg.

you should do some reading before getting into something like this...

also, just because sc or turbo is on all the time doesnt mean that you will necessarily wear the motor out faster,
as a matter of fact, one of the claims that most FI guys make is that a boosted motor actually experiences LESS forces than a nitrous motor because of the "cushioning" effect that the boosted air places on the piston as it is moving upward in the cylinder... this actually slows it down slightly which in turn reduces the forces that are exerted upon it...

remember, a piston accellerates at a very high rate and then when it reaches top dead center it totally stops and reverses its direction as the crank shaft rotates.... this spot, at the top of the stroke is where motors tend to fail, specially at high rpms...

the boost helps to cushion the piston which helps to keep the motor alive longer...

so maybe you should reconsider the blower idea.

 

actually the blower is gonna still exert more forces on the rods, bearings, and crank, even though the piston might slow down like you say, there is more pressure in the cylinder than a NA motor so it would wear more. the combustion chamber will always be hotter from the compressed air and detonation is more likely in these conditions.
nitrous would only increase wear above NA conditions when you used it
while a supercharger will increase wear whenever the engine runs.
more power=more force
more force=more wear
I'm just saying that with nitrous you can control when you use it and only increase power on the engine when you decide to, so wear is optional.
with a supercharger its always increasing power so wear will be continual.
a 100 shot of nitrous will always be way worse of a sudden impact and a heavier destroying force,
but the supercharger is a light destroying force that will wear over time.

 

I think Hyundai is getting about 6k to replace an engine in one of our cars, aren't they? If you run nitrous, and toast your engine, they are going to know as soon as they tear it down (it's hard enought to get them to fix things that ARE their fault). I wish you the best of luck, but I would never install nitrous on my car. Some Hyundai dealers are installing Alpine Stage 0 s/c's as a dealer installed accessory- they run at 4 psi and are supposed to be easy on your engine. Bet you're regretting your choice of trensmissions now, huh?

 

LISTEN TO ME!

100 Shot of Nitrous on that motor stock is no good. Your buddy is retarded to think a good shop won't be able to know. Nitrous motors have distinguishing characteristics on the top of the pistons, if the motor blows and they take it apart they will see the nitrous effects on the motor, and they will not cover the cost of the work or the motor, end of story. A properly tuned turbo or SC is very safe and can be daily driven, also FYI, Nitrous is illegal on the street, SC/Turbo are not. Further, how many car do you see come from the factory with a nitrous setup and a warrenty. None, how many nitrous setups come with a warrenty on the kit and the motor, none. However you see tons of SC and Turbos from factory, all with warrenty. Plus you can get SC for the Tiburon with warrenties. Don't be dumb cause your ricer friend thinks he knows something. The delta will not handle 100 shot of nitrous on stock internals, you will burn them up and blow the motor, and hyundai will see the nitrous damage on the motor.

 

LISTEN TO ME!

100 Shot of Nitrous on that motor stock is no good. Your buddy is retarded to think a good shop won't be able to know. Nitrous motors have distinguishing characteristics on the top of the pistons, if the motor blows and they take it apart they will see the nitrous effects on the motor, and they will not cover the cost of the work or the motor, end of story. A properly tuned turbo or SC is very safe and can be daily driven, also FYI, Nitrous is illegal on the street, SC/Turbo are not. Further, how many car do you see come from the factory with a nitrous setup and a warrenty. None, how many nitrous setups come with a warrenty on the kit and the motor, none. However you see tons of SC and Turbos from factory, all with warrenty. Plus you can get SC for the Tiburon with warrenties. Don't be dumb cause your ricer friend thinks he knows something. The delta will not handle 100 shot of nitrous on stock internals, you will burn them up and blow the motor, and hyundai will see the nitrous damage on the motor.

Listen, just get the nos kit and call it a day! If you blow yourself up then you know it was one ****ing bad idea. Trust me you'll spend all day here listening to people arguing back and forth because they think they know everything. Do what you think is safe for you and the car. Not these fruitloops!! :3_winkthu

 

nitrous, when run properly, is as safe as any other form of F/I. though i WOULD NOT suggest running a 100 shot on your tib. many people on the board have been/continue to run nitrous with no problems. i would suggest a 50 shot to be safe but if you are feeling saucy, go for that 100 shot, but don't be upset if your friend doesn't hook you up with the 6 G's it costs for a new delta if it pops. go with the 50 (and make sure you change your plugs one degree colder).

word,
pye

 

im doin a dry NOS nitrous kit as we speak. not goin higher then the 55 hp jet tho. comes with 35, 55, qand 75, but 75 is more then i want. im not gonna use it very often, so i know im gonna be safe.

jamie

 

im doin a dry NOS nitrous kit as we speak. not goin higher then the 55 hp jet tho. comes with 35, 55, qand 75, but 75 is more then i want. im not gonna use it very often, so i know im gonna be safe.

jamie

I know its tempting to install a dry kit.. they are cheaper, easier to install..

but they are riskier to use, since most of the failures associated with them comes from the vacume fitting attached to the fuel pressure regulator.

My advice, if you choose to follow it... USE A HIGH QUALITY CLAMP on that Pressure regulator. TIGHTEN IT GOOD !!!!!! (but dont damage the hose).

also, you MUST change your spark plugs to 1 stage colder.. i think the part # for NGK is BKR6E-11 .. (stock being BKR5E-11... the 6E is one stage colder)...

someone should verify that this is the right part # for the v6 tib.

Good luck !

 

That cushioning explaination makes no sense whatsoever.

Anyway, I would think a multiport nitrous system would be as safe as boost if properly tuned. But a single fogger or injector before the TB? I tend to think not.

The Holley NOSzle system looks pretty awesome. It would take some work but I would go with something like that if you were really serious about a lot of power out of nitrous.

 

Go with the charger...even though you may enjoy the small bursts of power you can purge out of the car, it would be much more fun to have all that power at your disposal throughout the RPM range! Besides the guy giving you advice at that shop sounds like a tool. Do you really think you can trust his word if he's telling you to run a 100 shot at WOT????

-Scott

 

That cushioning explaination makes no sense whatsoever. ........

perhaps if i explained it better..

the cushioning effect happens during overalp on the exhaust stroke...

that is the part of the 4 stroke cycle that has the worst effect on an engne... because there is nothing to dampen the piston as it reaches TDC...

however, on a boosted engine, the cylinder is slightly pressurized during the overlap phase because boosted air enters the cylinder as the intake valve slightly opens (during overalp) and acts as a cushion for the piston .. regarless of how small the cushion is, it is a cushion that reduces forces on the piston.

the result is a motor that has less harmonic vibrations and more power due to the boost...

 

btw, i used a Zex 55 shot and was fun, not much of a boost, but then i was told by a member here that 65 shot would be ok, so as i loved that xtra shot, my #1 piston didnt, blew a chunk out of it along with my wallet..lol so stay with 55 or lower, ( i guess it ran lean on #1 cyl.)

 

perhaps if i explained it better..

Trying to explain it in abstract terms isn't going to convince me. I'd like to hear a solid physics based explanation of this "cushion" effect.

The crank and pistons are all locked together. You can't just "cushion" a piston as it gets near TDC without slowing the whole crank down. And if you're slowing the crank you're not making power.

The piston in a blown motor at 6000rpm is traveling at the same speed as the piston in a nitrous motor at 6000rpm.

 

Trying to explain it in abstract terms isn't going to convince me. I'd like to hear a solid physics based explanation of this "cushion" effect.

The crank and pistons are all locked together. You can't just "cushion" a piston as it gets near TDC without slowing the whole crank down. And if you're slowing the crank you're not making power.

The piston in a blown motor at 6000rpm is traveling at the same speed as the piston in a nitrous motor at 6000rpm.

Yes at the same speed, but if there is pressure against it the net force is what he is talking about.

Are you familiar with force vectors? Free body diagrams, if so sketch one up and you will see what he is talking about.

It is the same reason that at the top of the compression stroke there is less force on the rod then at the top of the exhaust stroke. They are moving the same speed at the top of both strokes, but at the top of the compression stroke there is downforce against the piston face, therefore the net force up away from the crank is less. On the exhaust stroke the piston is travelling the same speed as it is on the top of the compression stroke, but since there is no down force on the piston face the net force is greater up away from the crank. Thats why when a rod fails it is almost 100% of the time failing at the top of the exhaust stroke, that's when the rod is under the greatest total net load.

His theory states that in a blown/turbo'd motor there is still increase combustion chamber pressures at the top of the exhaust stroke, enough to actually cause down force on the piston face. Most people think of this as exhaust back pressure, which is much more prevalent in a turbo as the exhaust is being highly pressurized to spin the turbo. But when you are forcing positive combustion chamber pressure with any FI the positive chamber pressure is still present at exhaust.

So his saying cushion is in a way a lay man's way of saying increased chamber pressure resulting in lower net tensile loading on the rod. The theory holds water.

I hope I could make it clear enough, but FBDs would help explain a ton, can't type those up however.

 

Listen, just get the nos kit and call it a day! If you blow yourself up then you know it was one ****ing bad idea. Trust me you'll spend all day here listening to people arguing back and forth because they think they know everything. Do what you think is safe for you and the car. Not these fruitloops!! :3_winkthu

A 100 shot of Nitrous will blow a stock delta every time. That is just the case, what makes me a fruitloop by trying to save this kid 6 grand for a new motor. The guy is asking what is safe because he doesn't know, so he is asking for help from people the do know. The best help you can give is, give it a try, if you blow up your motor you will know you fvcked up. That is really unhelpful to him and completely assinine. You are giving stupid advise that is no good for anyone. The reason you ask questions is to get good advise and yours sounds like it came from a retard.

I don't know everything, there is alot I don't know, but there is also alot I do know, and here is a few things I am certain about.

1) You can tell from piston faces if Nitrous is used on a car, when they pull apart them motor they will know you were running juice.

2) 100 Shot on a stock delta will blow it eventually, I guarentee, stay under a 55 shot if you do it at all.

 

A 100 shot of Nitrous will blow a stock delta every time. That is just the case, what makes me a fruitloop by trying to save this kid 6 grand for a new motor. The guy is asking what is safe because he doesn't know, so he is asking for help from people the do know. The best help you can give is, give it a try, if you blow up your motor you will know you fvcked up. That is really unhelpful to him and completely assinine. You are giving stupid advise that is no good for anyone. The reason you ask questions is to get good advise and yours sounds like it came from a retard.

I don't know everything, there is alot I don't know, but there is also alot I do know, and here is a few things I am certain about.

1) You can tell from piston faces if Nitrous is used on a car, when they pull apart them motor they will know you were running juice.

2) 100 Shot on a stock delta will blow it eventually, I guarentee, stay under a 55 shot if you do it at all.

I am currently running a 75 shot NX wet kit, I dyno'd my car and i am not getting the full 75whp. but i am getting a whole alot of torque. N/A Dyno was 154whp and 162 pounds of torque. Nitrous dyno was 201whp and 290 pound of torque. I ran 11's for my a/f ratio. I also have been thinking about going to a 100 shot. Now if i ever do; I would deffinatly do it on the dyno first to make sure my a/f ratio is good. That way i can shut it down if its to lean. There are other tiburons in the 300whp and 300 torque range with out a problem yet.

So far i have gone through atleast 10 bottles and i havent had any problems with my motor. I am having some problems with the torque converter (yes its an auto GT v6) but I actually had that problem before the nitrous. I also currently have 42,000 miles on my car. And I race my car alot through street racing down philly and at the track (started that about a month after i got it) I hope this helps

 

Get a S/C, it's not worse on gas, unless you are on it in boost all the time. If you drive conservatively, same gas mileage.

No worrying about bottle pressure, bottle leaks, blow down tubes, etc. You can get a Alpine Supercharger for $2500 brand new right now in the FS section.