[Paxfaux]

i just put the crank bold in the crank sans pulley when i wanted to rotate the crank.

If you use a breaker bar on the cam when adjusting it, it wont jump (not that you need to adjust it if everything is/was lined up).

i've been told that if you put the crank pulley on, then put the drive/serpentine belt on, the belt is tight enough so that you can hold the belt with one hand and torque the bolt down with the other. or have a friend to help. not sure if it works.

I used an electric Impact gun from northern tool to get the crank off. used that and a torque stick to get it back on. gun was like 75

 

[Paxfaux]

FYI, when i did my TB, i spun the rear cam ALL THE WAY AROUND

DO NOT DO THAT lol

i called the hyundai tech, he and many on this site told me the engine was certainly pouched, and from what i could tell, it should have been .

I hit a lot of resistance when doing so, more so it seemed then fighting compression. i got out the big wrench lol.

that was about 30K miles ago and no issues but must have been a miracle.

anyway, it happend because the cam moved one tooth back when i slipped the belt on, i wanted to readjust, and the cam jumped.

put a regular wrench on it and it just kept jumping. it jumped so far that a full 360 rotation was less turning then going back the way it came. plus the tutorial i was using said to only rotate them clock wise.

In the online shop manual i was using it didn't really say what to do here. in another shop manual i down loaded from NT, it said you could only adjust a tiny bit clock or counter clock wise.

Still not really sure what the best thing to do there was, but if i was in the same situation again, i'd use the breaker bar and move the cam back to the mark... back tracking the direction from which it moved.

my biggest problem was that i totally cross threaded the hole for the tensioner pulley and had to tap it, not fun.

 

[Paxfaux]

hm, how did it get so far out of wack?

i had a dorman pulley on. it had several marks on it, and when the mark on the crank cog lined up with the mark on the case, when i put the doman pulley on, none of the marks matched up with the mark on the case.

also, in my experience, its 100% impossible to get the belt on without forcing the rear most cam back a tooth. but it looks like you didn't have that problem. i ended up setting that cam a tooth ahead, and when it walked back on me everything was lined up.

I also had to compress the tensioner more then once. i did it with a clamp. i don't remember taking five minutes, but i did it fairly slowly/gently.

 

[Paxfaux]

i certainly agree that it pays to really know what your doing, and that the shop manual is written for those with a good working knowledge.

but what i really get from your conversations is that all you need to know is that the marks need to be lined up lol. which they should be already.

i don't know how his got so out of wack. but at that point you really need to know what your doing if you have to adjust any one point independant of the others.

i only had to adjust one of the cams. highly recommend using a breaker bar if one has to adjust a cam, it prevents it from jumping on its own.

i never adjusted the crank with the belt off, seems like it would be dangerous...

doesn't the belt move the valves out of the way as the crank turns? if you move the crank without the belt, it wont hit the valves? hope im not confusing things for the OP, just currious

 

[Paxfaux]

so, the fact that his cam gear marks line up means he can spin the crank and the valves will be ok? i mean he is going to have to spin the crank on its own to get it lined up right? sorry if i'm making you beat the dead horse again.

i'm almost postive my rear most cam was a tooth late. i wouldn't be surprised if they come that way. i don't see how you get the belt on without it moving the rear most cam back a tooth. when i called the dealership about it, they said it could be up to a tooth off and still be in timing.

 

[Paxfaux]

i'm much the same way. things that most people get done in a few hours will take me the entire week end. when i did my timing belt, it took not one, but two weeks... maybe 3 actually. i also barrowed vehicles when i could and thankfully i have a motorcycle

My problem was that i cross threaded the whole that the bolt for the tensioner threads into, and i had to order tools and research stuff. ended up just using a tap to cut just a few new threads and then cleaned it with a something called a chaser tap. i was affraid i was going to have to somehow put a helicoil in but did not have to.

also some how cut may hands up baddly low. the cams do have something of an edge to them.

you certainly did the best thing by stopping and seeking more information.

 

[Paxfaux]

i have some no name electric plug in from northern tool for an impact gun. it was 75 and it think it is either 175 or 225 ft/lbs.

pretty sure the torque for the pulley is a little lower then the 180.

got it off well enough anyway. put it on with a torque stick.


wow i bet i wouldn't have even noticed those cracks. why do you say you think it happend when you turned the engine over by hand?

 

[Paxfaux]

you did pull the coil to pack tho to get the crank bolt off i believe. so you did mess with the ingition.

if it was a valvue thing i think it would sputter and stall out

 

[Paxfaux]

you can just buy new heads too, if it comes to it. would be easier and cheaper then new engine.


rebuilt anyway

 

[Paxfaux]

The engine runs like crap right now. Its missing on 1 or 2 cylinders. The timing marks were lined up before i reinstalled everything. I dunno were to start here. Something is obviously very wrong.

perhaps something was damaged when the crank apparently moved independant of the cams?

when the crank initially went out of sync i mean... which is still kinda surprising to me.

i thought you had to do something with the ingition to do the trick to remove the crank bolt.


how did you remove the crank bolt?

 

[Paxfaux]

1. Before checking the engine compression, check the
engine oil level. Also check that the starter motor and
battery are all in normal operating condition.
2. Start the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature
reaches 80-95°C (176~205°F).
3. Stop the engine and disconnect the spark plug cables.
4. Remove the spark plugs.
5. Crank the engine to remove any foreign material in
the cylinders.
6. Insert the compression gauge into the spark plug
hole.
7. Depress the accelerator pedal to open the throttle
fully.
8. Crank the engine and read the gauge.
Standard value : 1,200kpa(12.2 kg/cm2 , 170psi)
Limit: 1,050kpa(10.7kg/cm2 , 149psi)
9. Repeat steps 6 to 8 for all cylinders, making sure that
the pressure difference for each of the cylinders is
within the specified limit.
Limit :
Max. 100kpa (1.0 kg/cm2, 14psi) between cylinders
10. If a cylinder's compression or pressure differential is
outside the specification, add a small amount of oil
through the spark plug hole, and repeat steps 6 to 9.
1) If the addition of oil causes the compression to
rise, it is possible that the piston ring is be worn.
2) If the compression remains the same, valve
seizure, poor valve seating or a compression
leak in the cylinder head gasket are all possible
causes.




THats the best copy paste job i can do from the shop manual

 

[Paxfaux]

impressed you did that so quickly

 

[Paxfaux]

nah, the pdf has 'Engine Mechanical System(2.7 V6)' on the first page in big letters lol.

diagram that i could not cut and paste also shows the intake on (strangley) and its a 6 cylinder.

it also says to crank it after you remove the spark plugs... so maybe its not going to draw air in at that point?


EDIT: seems i'm missing the point lol

 

[Paxfaux]

find myself wondering what the OP ended up doing

 

[Paxfaux]

and the parts covered under warranty.

thats pretty cool if you can pull that off. would have figured they'd get you on 'willfull intent' or something lol because you caused the damage... was not just the failure of parts...

maybe they just gave you deal on parts since it was so much in labor?

you could also have bought rebuilt heads... trust me, i looked into it lol.

why are you saying you must remove the spark plugs?

 

[Paxfaux]

still surprised any warranty will cover something that was esentially the result of someone elses work... if it was the factory warranty, i could see them fighting like hell

 

[Paxfaux]

OH, I FOLLOW YOU NOW lol

 

[Paxfaux]

Yea I totally miss read it