What are you using to measure the temperature? What are you using to get the readouts? Where have you placed the temperature probe? Is it something you have placed there yourself or what? Are you sure that it is working and accurate? 82C would mean that you would burn yourself if you place your hand on your intake manifold. My manifold never gets hot enough to touch, not even during the summer (and I have a black car that is more subject to heatsoak as well).....that may not be the best scientific way of doing it, but I think it is safe to say that if your intake air is 82C your manifold would be hot as well.

 

Where do you have the IAT mounted? Unless you have done a custom mount for it, they are usually in the intake. If you are reading 180*F, somethings wrong, if it is in the intake, (CAI or SRI). At full boost, 180*F or higher coming out of the blower isn't out of the ordinary. If is in the intake, the reading should be whatever the ambient temp is, unless you are sitting in traffic, and there is a lot of heat soak, 75*F will show 90*-100* in the intake. That's something I haven't got around to doing, mounting a temp probe in the plenum, one before and one after the intercooler. I tuned an '05 GTO with a Magnuson S/C on it, while on the dyno, I kept noticing I was losing timing, finally while wiping some sweat of my forehead, decided to check the IAT temp, it was at 175*F, checked the table for IAT vs timing, and sure enough, it was pulling 8-11 degrees. Funny thing though, even at idle and cruising speeds, the temp didn't move much. Apparently, the location Magnuson put it in, wasn't really a good measure of what was really going on, lots of heat soak.

 

Even problem in standart ecu that it takes temperature from CAI inlet.
for best perfomance and knowlege it must be after supercharger because charger compressing air also increasing air temperature.Ye, when i was standing or going without acceleration temperature does not goes down even at highway.
If you know what means detonation and what helps to grow it up you also knows that high intake temperature is not good at all.
This evening i'll post fotos of already done manifold.
And it would be some video.

 

Yeah, I would move it to the runners for actual temps, the spot where you have it now is out of the air flow, it is kind of a 'dead' spot. This is the same issue I had on the S/C GTO. One thing you may want to keep it mind, all the Alpine set ups, and the NGM Sniper/Assassins have the IAT in the intake, yes it is not measuring the actual air temp entering the engine, but with out a complete software tuning option to modify the various tables in the ecu, the location where you have it will cause more tuning problems, I'm pretty sure you will see a bunch of timing 'disappear' with the stock ecu. Here in the states, we have figured out the tuning using the original IAT location. I'm running about 8psi boost, 24* of timing, with the knock sensors turned off, 50/50 water/methanol. If I read your post right, you are using a full standalone tuning set up?

 

Just for a long time i was interested by hydra nemezis from ngm but it were no problem with 2000bucks.there were problems to tune them at Moscow-nobody wanted to work with link hyundai-nemezis.that's why i dicieded to take local sport ecu and tune it up.for the first time it were made link mine ecu-hyundai host but then we made full alone ecu without hyundai's.
And as you said i have new wideband knok sensor and it takes over -20* when accelerating.For high temperature it takes only -2*.Also for today i've got prblem with wideband lambda - it stays on front side header and shows signals time-to-time.I want to remove it to back side where front and back headers comes together.

and what IAT means?

 

IAT = Intake Air Temperature

refering to the sensor

 

a lot of us run it in the intake elbow like you had originally. Your current location isn't the best, and is reading too hot. For the best results it should be in the green area you have highlighted.

 

Where you place the IAT depends on how much boost your are running. If your between 6-8psi then just put it in the air intake area for best results. If your between 8-12psi put it in the green area so that the ECU will lower timing naturally.

 

Hey guys maybe somebody of you can show fotos of metanol injectors placement?
I was talking with my shopguys and for the first time we decieded to use 7th injector in alpine manifold(after throtle body before charger )
But then they sayd that charger will destroy all plus propeties of methanol because after depressing air methanol are very poor and in thak case i have to put injector only after charger. What can you say about it?

 

its my understanding that with methanol injection on a sc setup you will lower tempts because the methanol cools the roto packs down, while still upping fuel due to it being compressed and squirted into the manifold

 

I have a dual reading Intake Temp gauge in my car... one probe right after the supercharger and one right after the aqua cooler... the probes are drilled and tapped in to the intake

But I would never in a million years move my AIT to "after" charger... you are going to lose so much horsepower due to timing being pulled... if you read cool air before throttle body.. you will have an easier time tuning vs. hot air and combating the ecu wanting to yank timing...

 

But IAT after charger is the best way ti see what comes to engine.
Can you show yours placement sensors and what results you have with them?
If temp would be low as 130F you can raise up tuning of yours engine.

Please fotos.

 

I would have liked to put it into the intake runner myself just to see. On my oem ecu with piggyback, on a cool night with a base assassin, the stupid thing was hitting 36 degrees advanced on my stock motor... which really is more than it should have been seeing. I think that if the iat were in the intake runner, the timing would have been safer don't you think?

If he does indeed have a standalone, then put it into the runner after the charger for sure. Then it will be able to see more of a true temp esp. if the blower is heating up and really discharging heat like a mother!

 

Guy lets see for some terms.
I've disconnected main ecu at all and now i put enother ecu,russian brand that managing only engine.
Is it standartalone?
only airbages does not work properly.

 

Do you have full control of all the engine parameters? MAF transfer, injectors size, IAT tables, Air/Fuel, timing, timing vs coolant temp, etc.

 

I don't drive my car at the track anymore.. but from the driving I have done, I have gotten the after charger temps up to 160 - at that point the after core temps were 110

Here you can see where the aftercharger probe is mounted - the after core (you can see it's wire) is mounted up thru the bottom of the intake

Here is the gauge and the 2 push buttons we made to change the controller...

 

Hey UnHoly, what intercooler is in your Alpine, I'm guessing one of the originals? Anyway, so you are getting about a 50* temp drop, at whatever boost you are putting out. Putting a couple of temp probes into the intake is something I have wanted to do for a while. Nice work on the gauge set up, very clean!

 

if i understanded you correctlly i have non original cooling system?
As i can see and i thought so that laminova cores are the latest items in alpine development.
Where i can buy original alpine body cooling section?

For the future i've already bought MP90(it will come in a month) as is to make custom mainfold with front intercooling system.

 

I don't know if there are any of the original cores available, if you had a picture of one, maybe someone could make one, Next Generation Motorsports makes a upgraded core for the Alpine, but you would have to send the housing to him to have it made. With out actual testing, I can't say which one is better, but in speaking to Laminova and looking at their website, the cooling cores are designed to be installed no more than .020" of an inch from each other or the plenum wall, so I'm not sure how effective two elements stuck in the airflow will work.

 

I can't find any pictures of original one but i've seen them here on site.It's like part of home radiator. I think ngm can't help because it's two different manifolds.
Maybe smbd will show ngm cooling system inside?

 

The original is like a long radiator, like a heater core, folded in half, it's actually a dual pass set up, water goes across the front element one way to the end, turns around and comes back and out the other hose. If you search, there might be a picture somewhere. TC can build one for the Alpine, he started his business upgrading Alpines before he built his own set up.