if u have a high powered system you cant run the car and the system with one battery. it will kill your car every time

 

I am only going to have a 900w Rockford Fosgate mono w/10' sub and neon underbody glow, also JVC headunit with 3' monitor. Think i will need a different battery just for that?

 

anyone want to make an input.

 

get either a red or yellow top, but a 900 watt amp and one sub, would do fine with the stock batt.

 

get either a red or yellow top, but a 900 watt amp and one sub, would do fine with the stock batt.

coo, thank ya :3_yes:

 

hey guys, noob question here.

i have a very simple and modest system in my car, an alpine 300w class d amp and 1 jl w3v2 sub. i have had this for over a year now, but just a couple months ago, i started to notice that my battery is getting that crusty/powder acid build up at the positive terminal.

I was just wondering if any of you guys know what could be the cause of this, because yesterday, my clock started to reset each time i turn on my car, but my cd player was fine and continued from the last track i left it on. and today my car almost didn't turn on at all. each time i tried to start it, i seemed like the power was drained out, but i eventually got it to start.

so i'm wondering if i should take it to the dealer, or just get a stronger battery, but i still dont know whats causing that buildup.

 

hey guys, noob question here.

i have a very simple and modest system in my car, an alpine 300w class d amp and 1 jl w3v2 sub. i have had this for over a year now, but just a couple months ago, i started to notice that my battery is getting that crusty/powder acid build up at the positive terminal.

I was just wondering if any of you guys know what could be the cause of this, because yesterday, my clock started to reset each time i turn on my car, but my cd player was fine and continued from the last track i left it on. and today my car almost didn't turn on at all. each time i tried to start it, i seemed like the power was drained out, but i eventually got it to start.

so i'm wondering if i should take it to the dealer, or just get a stronger battery, but i still dont know whats causing that buildup.

Your getting a sulfate build up. This build up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the battery acid become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies.

First thing you should do (quick, cheap fix) is clean off the residue. Use a mixture of baking soda and water (mix it into a pasty mix), and a wire brush to clean off as much of the residue as you can. The sulfate buildup can affect your batteries performance. If you have done this and you're still having problems then I would suggest that its time to replace your battery. Although your system isnt a high watt system, you may want to consider a deep cycle battery, or if you decide to replace your battery with something similar, look into adding a capacitor. 0.5 farads would be enough for your system, and would keep strain off your new battery increasing its life.

Good luck.

 

I was considering replacing the stock battery terminals and wiring, but I'm finding the + side wiring to be somewhat confusing. I was expecting it to be more straight forward, but what's the deal with the accessory box thing attached to it? And the additional lines plugged into it farther down? I have read it would be a quick 30 minute job, but I can't see how that would be.

 

I have had good luck with this battery. Basically it has the same power as two yellow tops.

 

It is the Odyssey PC1700 it has a 240 minute reserve time at a 25 amp draw which is very large. The battery is so strong that my stereo does not turn off when I start the car because the voltage never drops below around 12V. I had a Yellow top for 8 years and they are great batteries but this one is hands down a much better battery all around.

 

How long should the stock battery last? I have mine 4 years, should I expect it to die soon? I have the stock sound system.

 

It is the Odyssey PC1700 it has a 240 minute reserve time at a 25 amp draw which is very large. The battery is so strong that my stereo does not turn off when I start the car because the voltage never drops below around 12V. I had a Yellow top for 8 years and they are great batteries but this one is hands down a much better battery all around.

Tell me more. It is light weight as well no? Better than yellow top optima? You get the pc1700T? Or pc1700MJT?

 

Good lord, a 60lbs battery with 1700 cranking amps 3500 amps short circuit current. Thats a mans battery lol! and a 142 minute reserve at 25 amps to boot

 

I think this has already been said but running 2 batteries only helps you when your car is NOT running. Think about it if you have another battery your alternator has to charge your battery and the extra battery, which means even less power for your amps.

 

Which size of Redtop would be best for my '03 V6 Tib? I see there are like 5 kinds, 34/78, 34, 35, 25, 75/25. Does it really matter with the Redtops? Which is easiest to fit and install? I just have the stock infinity system with sub and replaced head unit.

 

I just checked OPTIMA site , did a search for the type / dimensions for my 2004 I4 tiburon and it says there were no matching results.

anyone know where to find the proper battery?

 

hi , all i just bought a system it is guna be running two 1600 watt peak amps and 1 gague wire. if i get the yellowtop battery do you think i will be needing to buy an alternator with it? or will a yellowtop work just fine? i am alittle worried about the alt. working too hard to keep the battery charged.

 

Just got the redtop earlier today/yesterday.
Voltage appears to be better than my previous battery though still wanting that higher powered alternator for more improvements.

 

hey guys, all this talk about fancy batteries and all is great, but what about a stock sounds system, only the HU was changed? My battery is 3 yrs old and I think its starting to crap out on me. Trouble turning over and car clock is resetting. Anything other than optima recomended? Also, one that will fit without modification? I mean, I might just go and get the same one thats in there for now, just wanted to see if there was a suggested one instead. If and when I upgrade the system, i'm definitely going with something better.

edit: Never mind, I am just going to get an Optima Red Top Part # Red75/35. It was suggested elsewhere to someone so I figure I'll pick it up too.

 

i am runnin 2 12" alpines type e's, w/ a alpine mrp m650 amp....

i installed evrything finally last week and it has been running great till today. I turned on the car after i finshed college and turned the system on, and everyhtng was great. ABout 10 -15 mintues later i noticed no more bass coming out of the subs....

i turned the headunit on and off but nothing helped get the bass back. I stopped at the gas station and tunrned the car off, 2 seconds later i tunred it on and the system was working fine....so i thought nothing off it...

then i made my way to the highway and realized it happened again...i turned the headunit off for about 1minute and turned it on again, for it to pump out the bass....

DOES THIS MEAN I HAVE TO UPGRADE MY BATTERY FROM THE STOCK HYUNDAI BATTERY TO A OPTIMA RED/YELLOW TOP??

 

What are the specs on the stock battery, cold crank amps, dimensions etc.

 

some people where asking about the v6 with the factory harness on the postive terminal...heres what i did....

here just a pic with the new terminals add 0 gauge for my stereo and replace factory ground wire with 0 gauge....i replace all grounds with 0 gauge...

second thing i did was took all the wires off of the factory terminal and cut the end pieces off...but the wire with the fuse for the alt, the only thing i did was bought a water proof fuse holder with a 125 mini anl fuse...then added a 6 inch piece of blue 4 gauage and hooked it up, then i added a terminal post to my yellow top and used another stinger terminal..for the other two wires......heres a pic....

and the final thing i did was added a fuse holder for my 0 gauge going back to my amps.....the way i mounted it was, i took a piece 3/4 mdf, measured the folder holder, cut it to shape, then where my intake mounted to the car, i cut the bottom of the mdf so it would fit over top of the intake brackert, drilled a hole in the mdf so the screw would come out the top, but it had to be like counter sinked so the fuse hold would sit flush with the mdf.only thing i have to do it cover the mdf in resin sand it down then put some primer on it and paint it black...when you cover it in resin it will make it water proof so the mdf wont bubble.........heres a pic....

if anyone has a question about this just pm me and i would gladly help out....hope this helps someone....

 

which optima battery would you guys reccomend for my car?

2006 4cyl Tib
Alpine Headunit, 2 12" Alpine Subs, Alpine mrp-m650 amp

Yellow Top or Red Top or SOmething Else?

 

To those of you that relocated your battery to the trunk, where did you get your 120v battery fuse at? Can you post pics and part numbers?

 

I don't know if this has been answered before, but I'm too lazy to search through this thread.

What makes the Optima Yellowtop so "superior" to other batteries if you've got a system. It's only got 750 CCA, whereas I can get a Duralast battery with the same power for $50, rather than $100+. I know the Optima batteries have the side posts, so you don't have to stack your connectors, but other than that, is there anything that makes them superior to others? Or are they just so expensive because they say "Optima" on them?

 

the yellowtop is a 'deep cycle' battery, meaning it can be drained a few hundred times and be recharged and not lose its voltage, as a conventional battery everytime its drained it becomes weaker overtime, it also a dry cell so it doesn't leak or emit any odors

not sure what else, but the biggest point is that its a deep cycle battery