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vortech supercharges

2.1K views 35 replies 18 participants last post by  Importshark.com  
#1 ·
Hey guys current mods to my car inlcude AEM CIA, SS Chrome Inc. Headers and exhaust , with full 2.5' mandrel bends all the way back to 4.5' outlets, im also running between a 75hp - 125hp wet N-O-S Kit and currently getting ready to go with the vortech S/C kit from Ripp Mod's, which im told on a stock Tiburon gives you 334 at the crank and close to 284 at the wheels at only 4-5 psi and im just wondering if anyone else have chose this route or if there is any other suggestions for getting 400hp the wheels any advice would be much welcomed thankyou.
 
#2 ·
lmfao, i wish i had a CIA, damn... good thing there is no such company as SS Chrome Inc., but bravo with the ebay brands... i think you mean SS Autochrome, or SSA.... tell me how it is youre running a 75-125 shot? what are you pulling over and chaning the jettings whenever you feel like it.

buy the ripp kit, run your spray, i give you 5 minutes before you blow the motor
 
#7 ·
well as a mater of fact yes am between runs at the track *** ,depending who im running against didnt know that people with the same intrest in the same cars could be such dicks, so i mad a few typos who sorry i live in alabama, and all i wanted was info on a ripp mod charger , never once did i say i was gonna run it with out tunning assbag. but thanks for you input though have a nice day.
 
#9 ·
miller1775 said:
well as a mater of fact yes am between runs at the track *** ,depending who im running against didnt know that people with the same intrest in the same cars could be such dicks, so i mad a few typos who sorry i live in alabama, and all i wanted was info on a ripp mod charger , never once did i say i was gonna run it with out tunning assbag. but thanks for you input though have a nice day.
who **** in your corn flakes.... :3_saai:
 
#11 ·
yes id like to buy one soon but like i said im still looking into other set ups, and how much are you selling yours for and why
 
#12 ·
Mine is the stage 2 SDS with boost cooler. I am selling it for $3500. The reason is that I am doing a completely different setup that I cannot do with a RIPP blower. I bought it, never installed it, now I must sell it. It was used thoug, by Tom who worked for RIPP, so everything was good on it. It also comes with the new black box fuel tuning.

look here:

http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83000
 
#13 ·
miller1775 said:
Hey guys current mods to my car inlcude AEM CIA, SS Chrome Inc. Headers and exhaust , with full 2.5' mandrel bends all the way back to 4.5' outlets, im also running between a 75hp - 125hp wet N-O-S Kit and currently getting ready to go with the vortech S/C kit from Ripp Mod's, which im told on a stock Tiburon gives you 334 at the crank and close to 284 at the wheels at only 4-5 psi and im just wondering if anyone else have chose this route or if there is any other suggestions for getting 400hp the wheels any advice would be much welcomed thankyou.
Man honestly u need to build ur block, im sure there had been alot of stress from the nitous already. If ud throw the SDS on there im not sure how long it would hold up... Building an engine can be really costly. But what if it blows and costs more and you mess up ur block? Damn id do pistons at least... in ur situation.
 
#16 ·
of course, i plannin on getting forged pistons from vortech as well but ive still got a lot of work to do before i put the s/c on i was just wondering what kind of set up you guys would workout better than the ripp mod
 
#17 ·
miller1775 said:
of course, i plannin on getting forged pistons from vortech as well but ive still got a lot of work to do before i put the s/c on i was just wondering what kind of set up you guys would workout better than the ripp mod
every option is better for your car than ripp. there's a reason they aren't a sponsor on this board anymore. all you have to do it look at their site, and read all the threads there to know that for the amount of money you will have to invest, AFTER you buy the kit, to get it working properly is an insane amount.

i would recommend calling tim from nextgen and having a talk with him.
 
#18 ·
jmpusmcr said:
every option is better for your car than ripp. there's a reason they aren't a sponsor on this board anymore. all you have to do it look at their site, and read all the threads there to know that for the amount of money you will have to invest, AFTER you buy the kit, to get it working properly is an insane amount.

i would recommend calling tim from nextgen and having a talk with him.

Oh c'mon Joel it's not gonna be so bad forever u know. We have some nice plans for the system :3_winkthu
 
#19 ·
miller1775 said:
of course, i plannin on getting forged pistons from vortech as well but ive still got a lot of work to do before i put the s/c on i was just wondering what kind of set up you guys would workout better than the ripp mod
Vortech doesnt actually make the forged pistons for this application, they are made by endyn for RIPP directly. There are a few other companies that offer them as well. Arias being one of them.

We're actually planning on running a nice sale on engine internals here in short order if you're in the market.
 
#20 ·
Carrera1984 said:
Man honestly u need to build ur block, im sure there had been alot of stress from the nitous already. If ud throw the SDS on there im not sure how long it would hold up... Building an engine can be really costly. But what if it blows and costs more and you mess up ur block? Damn id do pistons at least... in ur situation.

This is probably pretty accurate. The main problem with the SDS is that at the boost it makes causes the engine to basically make it's power/longevity threshold in it's lowest form... I'm working on that issue though with the addition of an optional 3.5" pulley which should be wonderful for stock motor tibs and still make good power with the Vortech while limiting the boost to no more than 3-4 psi tops vs. the 6, 7, sometimes 8 psi people are seeing with the current SDS kits in stage 1 form.

Mix that with what has been up to this point shaky tunability on account of electronics being limited for the car and you've got yourself a recipe for a blown motor. We're hoping to rectify that situation very soon though with the use of good electronics with proper control and an optional lower boost pulley and also different intake piping with a different BOV. That should make the SDS a great power adder and smooth as silk.
 
#21 ·
#25 ·
jmpusmcr said:
shhhh, how many of those years have you been able to actually drive it? :3_winkthu
uhh all of them. Sure, the months and months of body work I haven't been able to drive it but even while it's in the various shops, it is always running. It has never not been running fine and driveable. Where it is parked is irrelevant. It has always been running fine. :)
 
#26 ·
GrAsShOpPeR said:
uhh all of them. Sure, the months and months of body work I haven't been able to drive it but even while it's in the various shops, it is always running. It has never not been running fine and driveable. Where it is parked is irrelevant. It has always been running fine. :)
If this was the "no spin zone" i'd own your *** right now :3_bier: