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INeedACobra

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm just about in the market for a new clutch. I burned up the stock one pretty bad while learning how to drive a stick and after putting on the intake and exhaust (while this may sound like complete bs) the clutch is actually slipping upon engagement (read dumping the clutch at 4k rpm to launch in a race or try to burnout). When I dump it like that all I hear is engine noise and the smell of burning clutch, no tire squeel or tire tracks left behind.

My question to you guys though is what stage clutch is best for me? I think I want to order one from Clutchmaster and as of now I'm I/E I4. I plan on getting an s/c or turbo sometime in the future but thats at least a year off. Think Stage 1 is good enough? Is Stage 2 just overkill? Thanks guys.
 
1st..... Wrong section

2nd.... Stage 2 would be great for NA considering you like to beat on it. Stage 3-4 for forced induction. You have a 4cylinder right?
 
stage 2 would probably be the best bet for you... but im telling you right now, if your spending the money to have a new clutch put in, PUT IN A LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL. they help put the power to the ground ALOT
 
I'll put in some tidbits here...

I'm on my 3rd CM clutch. The first two fell apart quickly, but this one is the mother of all clutches, and I LOVE it.

I first had a Stage 3 sprung hub CM. I sheared the rivets clean off it. (Torqued it to death)
Second, a Stage 4 sprung hub, 4-puck. The springs rattled loose, and ruined my clutch/flywheel.

I sent it back, CM resurfaced my Fidanza FW, and sent me an unsprung Stage 4, 4-puck clutch. It works splendidly, and the pedal feel is great, almost lighter than stock, and it's surprisingly streetable. It holds perfectly - 3 months so far, and it's the best clutch I've owned/driven. Very robust. It can be a little abrupt between shifts, but it's something that you can adapt to, although it does require attention. Just dumping the clutch without the proper RPM will turn your Tib into a jumping, bucking, jackrabbity embarassment.

I know my experiences are probably somewhat isolated, as there are many others out there with CM products and they love em, (all stages of clutches). I'm just relaying my experiences. If you are genuinely going to go with F/I later on, you might as well go with the clutch that can take the abuse.

-BRR
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Damn, I was almost hoping you guys would say stage 1 is good enough for just a bolt on n/a I4. The price difference between stage 1 and 2 is a lot, although stages 2-4 are all the same thankfully. Thanks anyways.

Oh and I realized after the fact that I posted in the wrong section, my bad. This section is the one directly above the other one.
 
I'll put in some tidbits here...

I'm on my 3rd CM clutch. The first two fell apart quickly, but this one is the mother of all clutches, and I LOVE it.

I first had a Stage 3 sprung hub CM. I sheared the rivets clean off it. (Torqued it to death)
Second, a Stage 4 sprung hub, 4-puck. The springs rattled loose, and ruined my clutch/flywheel.

I sent it back, CM resurfaced my Fidanza FW, and sent me an unsprung Stage 4, 4-puck clutch. It works splendidly, and the pedal feel is great, almost lighter than stock, and it's surprisingly streetable. It holds perfectly - 3 months so far, and it's the best clutch I've owned/driven. Very robust. It can be a little abrupt between shifts, but it's something that you can adapt to, although it does require attention. Just dumping the clutch without the proper RPM will turn your Tib into a jumping, bucking, jackrabbity embarassment.

I know my experiences are probably somewhat isolated, as there are many others out there with CM products and they love em, (all stages of clutches). I'm just relaying my experiences. If you are genuinely going to go with F/I later on, you might as well go with the clutch that can take the abuse.

-BRR
Yeah thats why a lot of people don't recommend sprung clutches. It might aid in stopping chatter but I don't think thats a good trade off to have to deal with thedrama.
 
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