[Jose Destru]

Hello, I'm rebuilding the 2.7-liter engine in my 2008 Hyundai Tiburon AT and have the following questions:

• Should I restart engine maintenance from where I left off (90,000 miles) or from zero miles as if it were a new car?
• Is it advisable to use mineral oil for the first 1,000 miles? I'm considering a Chevron Supreme.

What other advice could you give me?

The parts I replaced are as follows:

• Camshaft
• Connecting rods
• Oil pump
• Engine hydraulic lifters
• INJEN Cold Air Intake
• Timing chains
• Crankshaft
• Cylinder sleeves
• Timing belt kit
• Original gasket kit
• Radiator hoses
• Connecting rod and main bearings
• Pistons
• Radiator (I'll be using a Toyo)
• Rocker cover
• Thermostat and entire coolant system
• Cylinder head bolt
• Inlet and outlet valves

Everything is original and new.

Thank you very much for your help.

PS: In case you're wondering, buying a used engine with God knows how many miles it has or what problems it has was more expensive than rebuilding the engine with new, original parts.

 

[eagleprime]

Don't use mineral oil. There is special break-in oil that you might want to look into, but normal 5W-30 full synthetic should be completely fine.
Just follow a very tight interval due to a high amount of potential metal debris floating around as the parts wear in: change oil and filter at 200, 400 and 750 km initially and check debris level.

 

[Charlie-III]

Break in oil, I'm old school and use dino oil, NOT synthetic, for 1000 miles. Then I can switch to original recommended and a new filter.
Belts and stuff, change based on when you changed them, so, your miles/date is back to "0" with a rebuild.

 

[Jose Destru]

Don't use mineral oil. There is special break-in oil that you might want to look into, but normal 5W-30 full synthetic should be completely fine.
Just follow a very tight interval due to a high amount of potential metal debris floating around as the parts wear in: change oil and filter at 200, 400 and 750 km initially and check debris level.

Break in oil, I'm old school and use dino oil, NOT synthetic, for 1000 miles. Then I can switch to original recommended and a new filter.
Belts and stuff, change based on when you changed them, so, your miles/date is back to "0" with a rebuild.

Please, which brand of break-in oil do I need? I only found DRIVEN, but their webpage say that are only for american cars

 

[vecturion]

Easy engine to work on? I just bought a cheap one had been sitting for a few years. Runs good but has developed a slight tick, particularly at 1700rpm.

 

[Jose Destru]

Easy engine to work on? I just bought a cheap one had been sitting for a few years. Runs good but has developed a slight tick, particularly at 1700rpm.

I had to pay for it to be done, but they're not finished yet.

 

[eagleprime]

Please, which brand of break-in oil do I need? I only found DRIVEN, but their webpage say that are only for american cars

Sorry, didn't realize I never responded: the brands we have over here that I've seen guys using have been Royal Purple and Red Line break-in additive. The RP stuff is ready-to-go, the Red Line additive is basically ZDDP and some other stuff that you can add to regular oil. Helps avoid excessive wear.

 

[Jose Destru]

Sorry, didn't realize I never responded: the brands we have over here that I've seen guys using have been Royal Purple and Red Line break-in additive. The RP stuff is ready-to-go, the Red Line additive is basically ZDDP and some other stuff that you can add to regular oil. Helps avoid excessive wear.

Thanks, a few weeks ago I had already bought 12 bottles of Royal Purple since it was the only 10w30 break-in oil, I will do 2 changes every 500 miles, but I don't know what oil to use from 1000 miles to 5000 miles, according to GPT chat, they recommend using Castrol GTX 5w40 mineral oil