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So I did this today and decided to take picture to help you guys out a bit. There basic pictures so don't expect much. I will upload more later...was getting dark so I didn't take any of finished DIY.

First is what it should look like without battery :



Wheel well removed and will be running the line through the wires that go through to the door:



its the wires on the far end...



Wires are ran into the inside of the footwell and they come out the hole on the outside by the door:






More pictures will be posted tomorrow of finished product...
 
The weight is biased towards the front, so relocating weight to the rear (preferably in front of the rear wheels) will be advantageous in reducing understeer. The Tib's battery is in front of the front axles which is never conducive to good handling. If you are getting extreme with weight reduction and center of mass go with a small battery (like a group 51) mounted by the passenger firewall, space permitting. Realistically, it's not necessary for a street car/casual racer. This is more for people who are worried about things like saving 1 gram of unsprung weight per lugnut (NSX type R)
Also, if you have a very powerful sound system, a rear-mount battery would put the power closer to where it's needed.
I had a FWD vehicle with a 600 watt RMS system, when I had upgraded it to 2000 watt RMS system, I wanted a bigger battery (which would not fit in the OEM location) so I put a group 49 in the trunk and used the existing 4 gauge amp power wire to feed the vehicle electrical system and had instant current available to what needed it most (the amplifiers). The car eventually got so much weight in the trunk it would start to rotate on long sweepers but going fast was never the priority for that vehicle...
 
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