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By The Numbers: Building a 400hp Shark.

8K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  GeneralDuke  
#1 · (Edited)
I wanted to turbocharge my tib for 400bhp, but found out an interesting fact: without proper guidance it basicly comes down to hit and miss, with a lot of luck thrown in. Yes many members of this forum are good sources of information, but mostly about what they own in particular, and with a healthy dose of bias in for good measure. Don't get me wrong, asking can get you good answers, there is a lot of knowledge here at NT.

What I wanted was a step by step guide to bringing my tiburon upto the power I wanted. There is no such thing to my knowledge. Well.... HERE IT IS! Ok, well it's a general outline. But as I was struggling to crunch the numbers to get what I want from my tib, I I realized that with a little feedback and direction, it really isn't that difficult. If I don't explain something or take for granted that something is known that isn't, just ask.

All the tools you need to work along for your own particular demands are:
-A spreadsheet program or word processor, if you don't have one google Open Office, it is 100% free and compatible with excel. I prefer spreadsheet because once formulas are set you can change one aspect and the rest updates automaticly
-A solid understanding of applied mathematics, don't worry, I'm sure any competent highschool education will be sufficient.
-A copy of Maximum Boost by Corky Bell would be benificial, you can find it here: http://www.newtiburon.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120986

I'll try to be as logical in my layout as possible. Again, feel free to ask and answer questions (stay on topic), we are all learning and all make mistakes.

Vital stats:
2003 Tiburon SE 2.0L
Engine Displacement: 1975cc -or- 120.52 cubic inches
Cylinders: 4
Stroke Length: 93.5mm
Bore: 82mm
Compression Ratio: 10.3
Redline: 7000rpm
Peak Power RPM: 2/3 * Redline = 4666rpm
Ideal Boost Threshold: 1/3 * Redline = 2100rpm

Goal: 400 bhp

Turbo sizing
First we need to select a turbo size, this takes a few steps:
-Determine boost pressure required to get desired hp. *boost pressure and boost ratio are the same, one is metric (ratio, in barometric pressure) and the other in standard imperial (pressure, in pounds per square inch)
>Boost pressure = [horsepower / bhp per cubic inch displacement / engine displacement] - atmospheric pressure
>boost pressure = [400 / 0.077 / 120.52] – 14.7
>boost pressure = 28.4 psi
*convert to barometric pressure (boost ratio)
>[28.4 + 14.7] / 14.7 = 2.93 bar

-Determine the airflow rate required to sustain combustion at this pressure
Stock airflow rate:
>stock airflow = [engine displacement * peak power rpm * 0.5 (4 stroke engine) * volumetric efficiency] / 1728 (converts cubic inches to cubic feet)
>stock airflow = [120.52 * 4666 * 0.5 * 85%] / 1728
>stock airflow = 138.3 cfm (cubic feet per minute)
*convert to lb/hr:
>138.3 * 0.070318 = 9.7 lb/hr
Required airflow rate under full turbo:
>turbo airflow = pressure ratio * stock airflow
>turbo airflow = 2.93bar * 138.3cfm
>turbo airflow = 410.7cfm
*convert to technicaly correct units lb/hr:
>410.7 * 0.070318 = 28.9 lb/hr

>>Boost ratio = 2.93 bar
>>Airflow = 28.9 lb/hr
This is a good start to determining turbo size.
-larger means greater threshold, more top end
-smaller means lower threshold, less top end
Image

How to read a turbo map:
X-axis is airflow rate in pounds per hour
Y-axis is pressure ratio in barometric pressure
The "islands" are efficiency zones, center being the highest
The lines crossing the islands represent the turbo rpm
Leftmost line is the surge limit, turbo cannot operate past this point

Sketch out your pressure ratio and airflow onto the map (paint works), and draw a diagonal line from the intersection to the stock airflow at 1 Bar. The line should fall as close to the center as possible, easier said than done, but must not cross the surge limit. This is the efficiency of that particular turbo with respect to your engine.

I'm not going to explain what an A/R ratio or trim is, just that a small A/R has a low boost threshold and causes more back pressure at higher output, and a large A/R is the oposite. Trim is the ratio of the inducer/excucer, a smaller trim will be more efficient at higher pressures than a larger trim. Research further to get a better grasp of what exactly you need.

!!!stealing the next several posts to keep all critical information and calculations in one place!!!
 
#2 · (Edited)
Now we have an idea of what we need as far a air into the engine. Now we need fuel.

>Fuel pump size = break horsepower * brake specific fuel consumption
>Fuel pump size = 400 * 0.65 (forced injection engines are 6 – 7 estimated)
>Fuel pump size = 260 lb/hr

>Injector size = [break horsepower * brake specific fuel consumption] / [number of injectors * injector duty cycle]
>Injector size = [400 * 0.65] / [4 * 0.8]
>Injector size = 81.25 lb/hr
If the flow is high you may consider adding a second fuel rail, just make sure to change the number of injectors in the formula.
>Injector size = [400 * 0.65] / [8 * 0.8]
>Injector size = 40.625 lb/hr.

There is the bang. Air + fuel = power. Mostly. Of course you are going to want/need some (a hell of a lot) of items to make this bang work for you.

The short list I've come up with is:
Air System
Intercooler (more on this, it's more complex than you'd think)
Blow off valve (release the pressure, prevent compressor surge)
Turbo manifold (gotta hook it up somehow)
Big Bore Throttle Body (stock won't cut it, it's a huge bottle neck)
Wastegate (if not integrated into your turbo)
Exhaust (flow in must equal flow out)

Suspension
Strut bars: Front and Rear (when you have power you want control through the turns)
Sway bar (when you have A LOT of power you want A LOT of control through the turns)
Coilover System or lowering springs (your choice, what do you want?)
Big Brake Kit (admit it, when you stomp on the brake you know they suck.)

Transmission
Short throw shifter (less time on the clutch is more time on the gas)
Lightweight flywheel / pullys (inertia, it's a b!tch)
Clutch (if you haven't had to upgrade it already)

Engine
Spark plug / wires (might as well throw some colder plugs in)
Grounding cables (Remove electrical charge from the block)
Motor mounts (more power can throw the engine into the firewall if you don't hold it in there firmly)
Pistons (not necessary, but again with the inertia. They can handle the load if you decide to forego this step)

Electronic Components
Piggy-back computer (your stock ecu cannot handle your new performance car)
Wideband O2 sensor (you CANNOT let your engine run lean)
Boost controller (optimizing your performance)

Hmmm, once the fat is cut away this doesn't seem like such a massive undertaking. There are those who will tell you you need 6+, even 12+ months of research to develop a custom, or even decide on an aftermarket, turbo system. I think you can (like I did) design your ideal system in a reasonable amount of time. Taking into consideration that you have to know what you want, it is reletivly easy to design to that. What you WILL want to spend a lot of time on is fitting your ideal system into what is commercially available. I recomend spending time talking to and dealing with reputable sources, avoid ebay (for major components at the very least). If you can fit what you want into what you can get (it should come very close, look around) you can move on to installing the system.
Money will be the biggest pain in the @ss for this project, besides that it's all simple math to get 2 from a pair of 1's.

More to come on the intercooler.
 
#4 · (Edited)
This is all very good info!!!! Where did you copy and paste all this stuff From HAHA!!!!

I here alot of talk but nothing being done Mr. F@F!!!!! Oh wait you painted some parts so that gives you wut like 100 hp LMAO!!!!! Your almost there so you can do you ricer fly bys cause I Doubt your building a daily driver track car!!!!!

For anyone reading this I'm not one to bash on anybody but this guy has done nothing but talk crap on this forum and I dislike negative people!!!!! This forum is here to help and it's been nothing but helpful to me and everyone on here!!!!!
 
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#22 ·
Lol nah it's only a couple months old LMAO!!!!! And yes this thread should be blown up!!!!!!
 
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#17 ·
and to be on topic, what the hell was the OP talking about? lol....

6-12 months researching an aftermarket turbo set up? How about PM duffer and ask him what all you need to buy... lol Nobody here is custom building an engine or swapping heads or changing the stroke. Thats a lot of math for no reason. How about asking someone who is in the ball park of 400 what they have. Makes life a lot easier.

Though it is too bad he didn't finish it all out since it is good info...
 
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