[h8isgr8]

The MAF is an aftermarket one. Not OEM. However I have been running an aftermarket MAF for the past two years with no issues so I’m pretty sure that’s not the root of my problems.

OK, but you said the MAF was replaced, so I assume that means it's a different aftermarket MAF than the one you used for 2 years?

Nearly all aftermarket MAFs cause problems on the tib. There is a small exception, like a Beck-Arnley MAF I had, but even that one only lasted less than 2 years.

If the MAF looks like this, chuck it in the trash...

If it looks like this (this was the Beck-Arnley), then it might work, but it could still be the cause of the problem...

 

[h8isgr8]

I installed the new coil pack and it did next to nothing. I also pulled off the Maf to check and it looked just like the one you said was junk... it’s now in the trash. I looked at the aftermarket one that I had in before and it looked more like the bottom photo so I’m assuming that’s why it lasted for a while. I went to an auto parts store and picked up an OEM one and installed it.

The MAF in the first picture is using (exploiting) the temperature coefficient of resistors to do the sensing. Not an ideal solution, but they do this with aftermarket MAFs because resistors cost pennies.

The MAF in the second picture uses a platinum RTD (resistance temperature detector), which is also technically a resistor, but it's designed specifically for measuring temperature. These cost quite a bit more than a resistor.

The sensors in the OEM MAF are extremely sensitive (and fragile) and have a way faster response time than a resistor or RTD. I don't know if the tib ECU just doesn't like the slow response of the aftermarket MAFs or if it has something to do with the circuitry inside.

Is there anything I should do besides reset the ECU to get it to adapt quicker?

Unless you have access to an advanced OBD diagnostic tool to reset the adaptive values, disconnecting the battery or pulling the ECU fuses is really all you can do.

 

[h8isgr8]

I disconnected the battery in order to reset the ECU and the car is not responding well today. It still starts fine but if I don’t give it a bit of gas it won’t idle at all. It dies about three seconds after it starts.

It is brutally cold where I live today with temperatures in the -10 to -15 degree range. I am wondering if this may have something to do with the poor performance? I don’t know why the car would be running worse with the new OEM Maf installed... any thoughts?

The main problem with the aftermarket MAFs is that they cause the fuel trims to go high and eventually peg. That's what happened with both of mine, even though it took a long time for the BA MAF to finally do it. That could have been why you smelled unburnt fuel.

Do you still smell unburnt fuel? Maybe the engine is running too lean now with the OEM MAF because there is another problem like an intake leak or bad IACV. I know you said you cleaned it, but did you check it to make sure it moved freely? The rotor inside should have some springiness too it and move smoothly. I had to replace mine around 90k; cleaning it did nothing and the rotor movement was sluggish. I also had to replaced my TPS shortly after that.

 

[h8isgr8]

You mean from the dealer? Coz no auto parts store sells OEM part.

I believe the only one that's a Siemens MAF is the VDO 5WK9643Z (Siemens owns VDO). It's an insane $242 from AutoZone and $152 at Advance.

Here's a genuine OEM at amazon for only $72.65 if someone wants to snag it fast...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJNTXPA

Amazon prices fluctuate all over the place and this is the cheapest I've seen one yet.