What kind of power gains are you looking for? An additional 200, 250 300 hp? I'd say before you get a turbo, get a short ram intake (or coldair), upgrade your exhausts, and suspension, maybe even stuff like performance plugs, wires, cams, and pulleys too. You really need to prepare your car for all that boost too. At least that is what i'm going to do before I go forced induction. Sometimes just doing everything BUT forced induction is enough for some people. Might as well drop a few thousand in simple upgrades before you start doing heavy modding.

Also, I reccomend researching all the threads about s/c and turbos. IMO, our cars are not a good platform for high end turbo setups because of the FWD. I'm still learning myself. I think evenually, I will get a turbo but not upgrade to something more than 300whp.

As far as a daily driver, I've heard turbos are still good for daily driving because they only really produce massive gains at higher RPM's. If I'm not mistaken, they help with gas milage too. I could be wrong though. Just research research research!

 

I'll sell you my turbo kit, fully bolt on and reliabl e

 

Just checked out his thread on this and pending pics and full list of stuff included this could be an excellent setup to go with for the price. Only thing I'm not totally versed on is the SMT8 tuner but I'll look into that later when I'm off work. GLWS Mark (other Mark - or maybe I'm the other Mark haha)

 

If you jump into a turbo build blindly you will regret it. Build the car N/A until you fully understand the amount of work and fabrication that goes into a turbo kit. I'm not saying dont do it, just READ and RESEARCH as much as possible. And a 60% performance increase on a 125whp motor isnt going to blow your hair back. Prob get you around the same whp as the V6 N/A modded. Build from the bottom up and the last item on your mod list should be boost, then yes your hair will be blown back.

 

Agree 100% Start small, work on the engine with things like CAI, SRI, replacing sensors, changing oil, plugs, wires, upgrading springs, coils, exhaust, easy stuff. Get to know the car more in-depth, T/C should be last on your list.

 

Thanks for advice all,

@Tibutrauma: I'm not looking for massive performance increase, just doing some local newbie racing, I just want to keep up with the others lol


What sensors do i need to replace?? Is there like some other sporty sensors? Sorry I'm still quite new to this whole tuning thing, but I find it very fascinating!!! :3_pimatyo

 

@markstibbyspot: Oh I live in South Africa though, how much are you looking for? Sorry can't PM yet...need atleast 5 posts

All these modding cars Here in S.A is really hard to find parts for (tiburon's/supra's/RX7/Evo's/Toyota Celica GT4/Skylines etc)...and most of our tuning dealers is only familiar with newish vehicles like M3,Renaults.Peugots etc... all modding cars here is done by owner themselves! So i guess i must take that route!

 

Dunno if i agree fully with all said here and I'll explain why. I think you need to pick a way you want to go and mod or collect parts for your end goal, but of course research like crazy then make your decision which way you want to go. Reason I say this is not all NA stuff is compatible, best suited or necessary for turbo and vice versa depending on your goals. Like you can spend money on cams n pulleys for a NA setup but you plan to go turbo and then the cams might not be suited for turbo and the pulleys could be unnecessary expense if all you want is 300hp, the cams could've been unnecessary expense as well. You could buy an exhaust setup that the piping is too small for turbo and have to change it, NA headers and intake will be useless for turbo setup and therefore wasted money.

So i say decide which way you want to go, NA or turbo and research plan and get your parts for the end setup you really want.

 

Edit: Oops phone went nuts n double posted, ignore this one

 

Go turbo, set the boost at 5lbs...should be very reliable, don't have to make additional changes. Then when you are ready, up the boost. Save you lots of money from buying parts you won't need later on. also 5lbs of boost is more power than any na mods will gain you

 

I found a local dealer that do turbo conversions. They charge me $1200
(that includes the whole installation/low pressure pistons etc etc.)
Thats about 9000 South-Africa rands..quite reasonable i'll say...and they claim i'll be able to get 60% performance increase...i think at 1.0bar? (The turbo is also manufactured not to go over 1.0bar, I'm not really up to date what this "bar" means...air pressure I assume?)


1 bar is equivalent to 14 pounds of boost. That's a pretty good setup for that price. If the dealership is willing to setup it up and warranty the parts and labor go that route. 14 psi will definitely give you the "ROMP" you're looking for. But like everyone on here before me said. DO YOUR RESEARCH.

If the turbo is not designed to go over 1.0 bar and you still want more power...which is against my advice..but can be done look into finding a better turbo. A lot more knowledgeable members here can point you in the right direction. I'm not sure about this but I think the BOV controls the amount of "boost" or Bars the turbo creates. The turbo flange and size determine the range when the turbo starts to create the boost. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

If you're going to go F/I go that route. Don't waste money on other parts that will be deemed unnecessary. Like stated above. Here is a GENERAL rule stock engine are more suitable for boost compared to N/A modded.

 

I highly doubt he means a Hyundai dealer, he probably means some performance shop.

BOV does not control boost, the actuator or waste gate does that and the amount can be increased by use of a boost controller. They just probably have it preset to 1 bar, not that it can't be increased. The turbo flange has nothing to do with how much boost can be run or how fast it will come in, turbo size does.

There's been a bit of misinformation going on in here...just saying.

 

@Kman Tib: (+rep)
Yes in the future I want to go F/I.
So some told me I should max the N/A, but then I would waste some cash if I'm going the F/I route...

Lets say my Tiburon is pretty stock. (Although I have custom exhaust system,SRI performance filter --fits in the stock box right?--and UniQ chip done by SAC ---> (Steves Auto Clinic) <--- http://www.steves.co.za All in all it cost me about $1200.


So what do I do next if you were me? Should I do CAI, then take it to "East rand turbo" <----http://www.eastrandturbo.co.za (Turbo performance shop)

because it looks like i should leave all the lightweight pulleys,cams etc to the performance shop?

ps: Thanks all for the replies

 

What is a realistic power goal that you be happy with, HP numbers plz I'm not familiar with kw lol From there i can advise. I still recommend you research and not leave all your trust in the shop. All engines aren't the same and just because they can and have turbo charged other cars don't mean they know how to go about doing our engine and make it stay together and not blow. The general parts needed might be the same yes but tuning is a whole other story. At least when you know you can be there to see/know if they are doing anything wrong.

Also as per my previous comments, case in point I think that Uni chip will be useless for what is needed for F/I but I might be wrong.

 

See told you I would be corrected...that's why you do your research.....

Also, you should do a search on this forum for turbo applications. There is a lot of good information there.

 

Well i dont know how much HP i have atm?

Here is my dyno graph that I got from them:

I would like to go reliable, but max as possible. i guess something like 250HP?

 

I went to google:

Kilowatt to Horsepower conversions:
http://www.americanmachinist.com/Calculators/HorseToKilo.aspx

103KW=138HP?

 

103 kW is about 138 HP.

I'm trying to find out what N is... Normally it would be Nm (newton meters) but even then the number would be in the hundreds, not the thousands.

 

Ok, checkeda conversion table online, that is 138hp. 250-300hp is easy to get reliably on the stock untouched HEALTHY motor. Get a compression test so you can know the health of your motor before you turbo it. Something like a Mitsubishi TD05 turbo would be excellent for that amount of power goal. Jattus dot com has an excellent kit that would suit you if you don't want to have to do much fabricating and the tuner they sell with it is made by a company out of South Africa - Perfect Power - but that company also makes a better suited tuner called the TF-10 which I use that maybe you can ask Jattus if they would exclude the tuner and you get the TF-10 direct from Perfect Power. Those tuners work well for a dual fuel rail setup. If you plan for a primary injectors only setup then you would need to go with the AEM FIC for tuner.

However, these cost is more than what that place said they would do it for and to be honest I find their price iffy and I'd be interested to know all you'd get at that low price of just $1200 - seems quite unbelievable and their possibly cutting corners for a good reliable setup.

Edit: And by the way, with a turbo the more you gun it and drive in boost you will burn more gas than normal than you are now. That's a sacrifice that comes with power - Can't recall ever seeing a high power car maker boasting about it's mpg consumption. However if you drive normally off boost your consumption would be the same - it's only if you're pedal happy and go flooring the pedal all the time that you'd be using more gas. Your call as far as that goes - but if you want better gas consumption then you're best leaving it alone.

 

Ok so I called the performance shop:

Spoke to them about our discussion on this thread and all other threads, and the guy sounds pretty decent with good knowledge and understanding.
He will e-mail me a in depth about the conversion he wants to do + a quote...and sounded like plus/minus $3000 with labour-installation-guarantee on work + parts.

I will post this e-mail here so that I can have 2nd/3d opinions from you tibby-fanatics!

***Watch this space***

Thanks all

 

That kind of price is sounding a bit more realistic but still low with installation, tuning al all so I still wanna see what all is included for the price. I can't stress enough too that you research and get yourself familiar with our engine being boosted and know some aspects of tuning too, can save you in the long run.

Just because they are a performance shop don't mean they can dial in our stock engine right to stay together when boosted. Trust me I seen horror stories on Nissan forums I used to be on when I had a Nissan where this dude took his car to a shop for them to do it all, they reamed him big time for cost and in the end his motor blew in a couple days of him getting it back only for them to try and claim it was his fault. Upon analysing his tune, knowledgable/experienced people on the forum found that the idiots boosted his car and tuned it as if it were an NA setup. One bit of good news with the situation is the owner/head mechanic of the shop was also a member on the forum and in no time got the worst reputation ever and banned from the forum - certainly to lose allot of business that could've went his way and I believe got sued by the individual that he jerked around.

Moral of the story is it's good to educate yourself also so you can know what to look for.

 

True what you are saying Kman, but in the end...it is their occupation/Professionalism, just like mine is in IT.

I don't know much about tuning cars, although i want mine done...but in the end....you put your car in their hands and hope for the best. All in all it is a risk yes, but there is no fun without risk right?

And again, thats why I'm here on NT-forums! To get advise from mechanics/fans like you. I also take trust in your advice/words just like I'm doing in the performance shop.

Like ya'll said...RESEARCH,RESEARCH,RESEARCH!
(And I'm really trying although i dont understand the mechanics and terms of everything....)

"Trying is the First Step Towards Failure and Failure is the First Step Towards Success"

<(^^,)>

 

True what you are saying Kman, but in the end...it is their occupation/Professionalism, just like mine is in IT.

I don't know much about tuning cars, although i want mine done...but in the end....you put your car in their hands and hope for the best. All in all it is a risk yes, but there is no fun without risk right?

And again, thats why I'm here on NT-forums! To get advise from mechanics/fans like you. I also take trust in your advice/words just like I'm doing in the performance shop.

Like ya'll said...RESEARCH,RESEARCH,RESEARCH!
(And I'm really trying although i dont understand the mechanics and terms of everything....)

"Trying is the First Step Towards Failure and Failure is the First Step Towards Success"

<(^^,)>

like you said, hope for the best, but remember to expect the worst so if the worst comes, you will be prepared...

 

Well if you're in IT then you have some aspect covered, sort of, as you should be somewhat technically minded to an extent and tuning is all done on software. You just gotta know what parameters/engine conditions to stick by and how to achieve that within the software. That'll come in time. A good turbo book to get is Max Boost by Corky Bell. If you can, try to get a copy and read whether it be digital or hard copy. you'll learn allot from that and I'm sure you got some time anyway funds wise and wasn't planning to jump in to getting this done asap, correct?

 

Yeah I don't want to waste my funds. But again I'm excited! I'll look for that book online!

Really appreciate the feedback

 

Don't worry we'll have you sorted. Put it this way I've been boosted on my bone stock untouched motor for just about 2 yrs now - daily driver running 8-10 psi normally with a switch to go to 12 but intend to tune for 15psi, just slacked off since the track here closed down for a while. I fabricated majority of my setup between myself and a friend of mine - did that to save and have it done for as cheap as I could, and all my tuning is done by myself on street/track because there's no dynos here - you have that advantage. Not to toot my own horn but I think I know a thing or 2 and quite a few other on the forum do too, some quite allot more than me and have been on the Tiburon scene longer than I have. So you're in the right place

 

I have attached the quote in a Word Document

Total about $4287

($1 = R7,57)

:3_withstu

 

It's a Garett T61 turbo that they put on Toyota Supra's??? Isn't that too much for my car?

If im right 750 injectors too small? maybe 1000 injectors?
They havn't quote me on low pressure pistons?

 

First off guess I should ask if these folks have ever turbo charged a Tiburon or Elantra? And if so what is the result they got with that car? Also, is your car manual or automatic? You'll need upgrades for either to take the power. If automatic then all you need to ad is an external transmission cooler, personally I got one that has a fan and an automatic temp switch to operate the fan. Is your car OBD2, RHD or LHD? Out of curiosity...

Now the price is looking more like it, told you the first prices seemed low. For what you seem you want then yes that turbo IMO is too big and definitely running that at 2 Bar on stock motor WILL blow it in a heartbeat! 750cc injectors aren't too small, not for the power you want anyway, 1000cc would be WAY too much.

As for pistons, it depends what you want and how much you want to spend as I said. If ~300hp is enough to keep you happy then low comp pistons aren't necessary. Also they didn't say which engine management they would be using and not all are suited for what we need to keep our stock ECU happy when boosted. The fuel management is not as detailed as I'd like to see. For that amount of power I'd recommend a 190lph fuel pump and if you go with a single fuel rail setup, as they seem is what they'd be doing, then I'd recommend a 1:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator but that's debatable whether necessary for that amount of HP since you'd have 750cc injectors. As to them having 2 fuel pumps in the quote I have no idea why? I don't know what Sundries is? I would need to know what engine management they plan to use cause to the best of my knowledge for anything over 400cc primary injectors only the AEM FIC is capable of compensating for it or at least that's a tried and tested one that does it - if it's another one then you're going in unknown teritory. The throttle body is also unneccesary for the amount of power you want too.

Now with all that said however, if you plan to go further in the future like building the motor with forged pistons and going for more power this I think will be good to get you some really nice number - like 450-500hp. But that's no toy there and would be a serious piece of machine and with you not knowing mechanics and tuning to do allot of it yourself it will definitly cost you quite a bit.

IMO for ~300hp either you get them to revise this quote taming things down considerably with a turbo like a TD05 or equivalent turbo running no more than 15psi or you go for either markstibbyspot's kit that he's selling or the Jattus kit and you could have them install and tune it for you if you can't do that yourself.

Awaiting your answers to the questions I asked here