Hyundai Tiburon Forums banner
21 - 27 of 27 Posts
8 gauge is fine for 400w rms. I have the same headunit, and my sub works great. But I have 1 amp dedicated to my sub. It's a 300w Infinity Kappa powered by a 400w Audiobahn Intake amp. First thing I would think is your sub isn't getting enough power. How many watts rms is sub sub rated at? I suggest a dedicated amp for your sub and a separate amp for front and rear speakers. It seems easier to get things how you want them if you do it like this.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Jameson said:
8 gauge is fine for 400w rms. I have the same headunit, and my sub works great. But I have 1 amp dedicated to my sub. It's a 300w Infinity Kappa powered by a 400w Audiobahn Intake amp. First thing I would think is your sub isn't getting enough power. How many watts rms is sub sub rated at? I suggest a dedicated amp for your sub and a separate amp for front and rear speakers. It seems easier to get things how you want them if you do it like this.
Sub is at 275 RMS. Now how high do you have your volume with your head unit? I need to keep at around 15 now to get some decent sound off the sub (before i could keep it at 10). I found a better location to ground the wire and it got a little louder. Where are you guys grounding the wires???

I found a temp fix. Trun up the gain on the sub and turn down the gain in the cabin speakers... but I feel I shouldnt be needing to do that. on my other car everything is fine... urrg so mad... any more suggestions?

Next Ill try the amp in my other car(mono amp) and hook it up to my Tib and see what happens.

And about the pictures... my parents went on vacation and took my Digital camera so ill post some pics when they come back. Thanks for all your feedback!
 
Not sure where you stand on this now but I thought that I would jump in.....

First of all, lets start with the specs. The 200W RMS spec that you stated will be produced with a 4 ohm load. So check to make sure that your sub(s) is wired in that way. Most likely it is but I thought I would throw that out there.

The 200W figure is slightly misleading. That is the power at 14.4V The power at 12V is only 150W. Just keep that in mind when trying to determine what your amp is actually capable of doing.

Now for some other pointers.....

Check the amps Channel 5 settings. There may be something going on there. First I would make sure that you have the crossover point set right. It should be adjustable from 30-400Hz. If it is set to 30Hz, then that may be the source of your problem. Try playing with that.

Also check the INPUT CHANNEL setting as well....Make sure that it is set to the correct input channels you are using. The way you have the inputs wired will dictate how this setting should be. I would assume you have your SW preouts hooked to the Ch 5 inputs and you have the INPUT CHANNEL setting at 5. Double check that.

I think the best thing to do is rule out any configuration or wiring errors before we blame the amp.

You could also check your wiring for good connections. You can check for a BAD ground (or any bad connection for that matter) by using a DMM.

But please do keep in mind that there may be NOTHING wrong at all.......You idea of what the amp SHOULD produce and what it actually IS producing may be entirely different.
 
you really should find a single amp that produces slightly more RMS power than your RMS sub power...that way you have more to play with and won't have to worry about underpowering...like my sub is 500RMS, amp, 600RMS...works great.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
-Viper- said:
Not sure where you stand on this now but I thought that I would jump in.....

First of all, lets start with the specs. The 200W RMS spec that you stated will be produced with a 4 ohm load. So check to make sure that your sub(s) is wired in that way. Most likely it is but I thought I would throw that out there.

The 200W figure is slightly misleading. That is the power at 14.4V The power at 12V is only 150W. Just keep that in mind when trying to determine what your amp is actually capable of doing.

Now for some other pointers.....

Check the amps Channel 5 settings. There may be something going on there. First I would make sure that you have the crossover point set right. It should be adjustable from 30-400Hz. If it is set to 30Hz, then that may be the source of your problem. Try playing with that.

Also check the INPUT CHANNEL setting as well....Make sure that it is set to the correct input channels you are using. The way you have the inputs wired will dictate how this setting should be. I would assume you have your SW preouts hooked to the Ch 5 inputs and you have the INPUT CHANNEL setting at 5. Double check that.

I think the best thing to do is rule out any configuration or wiring errors before we blame the amp.

You could also check your wiring for good connections. You can check for a BAD ground (or any bad connection for that matter) by using a DMM.

But please do keep in mind that there may be NOTHING wrong at all.......You idea of what the amp SHOULD produce and what it actually IS producing may be entirely different.
Hey -Viper-Thanks for the imput... I checked everything and double checked everything. The crossover fo the cabin speakers are at 100 Hz. The Sub ( channel 5) is at 120 Hz. It is hooked up to SW out put on the HU. The wiring is 100% correct. Nothing wrong there. My cap shows the voltage, and seems like its running 14 volts. When the cars off about 12 volts. Amp is on channel 5. If I dont seti it there then the front or the back wont work. Depending on what other setting I put it on. I was messing around and found that out. If you read my previous post before this one I said the bass is loud only if I turn the gain, bass eq, and Hz up to get good sound off it. ALSO I have to lower the gain on my cabin speakers. or else the highs would cover up the sub and the bass off my componets will be louder then the sub. Yeah this is where im at.... thanks for joining in :3_smile:

PS. wht a DMM?
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
spldominator said:
you really should find a single amp that produces slightly more RMS power than your RMS sub power...that way you have more to play with and won't have to worry about underpowering...like my sub is 500RMS, amp, 600RMS...works great.
My RF Mono 150 RMS amp hits harder then my 200 RMS Alpine amp.... you see something seems wrong. Using the same sub.
 
If you are using the SW output on your HU, you may need to adjust the output level.

If you are sure everything else is good, you may just have an OVERRATED amp. That is usually the case.

Without having your system to play with, I can't help you out much if you are sure everything is correct on the setup.

P.S. A DMM stands for Digital Multimeter. That should be your "best friend" when doing mobile electronics....
 
21 - 27 of 27 Posts