[nduda78]

so maybe its the actuator deal....what do you mean your not using yours kellydood, I guess i should order one from alpine.....damn i hope thats it....i cant see any signs of the actuator rod on the heater hoses...only the actuator piece itself rests on the heater hose

 

[blinkme323]

My actuator is just about touching my heater hoses right now. Would you take it off? I'd sacrifice mileage for throttle repsonse and reliability.

 

[Chuckie]

no way to get boost without moving

Why not? The belt is spinning the supercharger, even in P or N. The belt is still spinning the pulley with the engine running. Once the bypass is closed, you'll "get boost".

 

[UnHolyTib]

You can't get anything but vacuum while in park.. sorry, engine has no load on it, and the engine will eat any air you put thru it... very hard to get a turbo or a s/c to make boost while sitting still, unless you are on the brake and hold it still... Does your s/c make boost without load?... If it does... its not working right... but... its yours.. so thats cool...

 

[Chuckie]

You can't get anything but vacuum while in park.. sorry, engine has no load on it, and the engine will eat any air you put thru it... very hard to get a turbo or a s/c to make boost while sitting still, unless you are on the brake and hold it still... Does your s/c make boost without load?... If it does... its not working right... but... its yours.. so thats cool...

Is it "no way to get boost without moving" or "very hard" now? A turbo and root blower don't have all the same properties. If the bypass valve is closed, due to no vacuum or a faulty actuator, then it will stay open at any throttle position...all awhile the engine is spinning the supercharger belt. Why do you have to be on the brake to hold it still, that is what Park does. I'm sorry, but your are incorrect...so thats cool.
:3_saai:

If you have headers and a 86.5 (s1) pulley, you are only going to generate max boost of 2psi anyhow, so i would think hearing 1psi in Park would be harder to hear than twice that amount with stock manifolds. In addition, headers generally increase the overall exhaust tone significantly.

Back on topic, I'm trying to help a fellow boosted nt member. i hate seeing blown engines that could have been avoided. :3_wink:

 

[nduda78]

ok so to comfirm, can i remove the vacum line from teh actuator (bypass the actuator) to test if in fact that is my problem?

I realyl have no idea what the issue is, but its related to the supercahrger for sure (leak...etc), and i did nothgin to cause it.

 

[Chuckie]

get a piece of hose and use it to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. or use the spray method as described. there are only couple of vacuum lines to check.

the manifold is sitting flush with the lower manifold, right? i'd say remove the blower again. check the vacuum lines while its off. inspect the actuator. i'm willing to bet the dealer had the manifold resting on it and damaged it. if its like a typical actuator, you should be able to push in the actuator rod, plug the vacuum port with your finger and the actuator rod should not move back out until you let your finger of the port. if it looks okay, replace the gasket. apply the rtv properly. reinstall, and see if it goes away.

 

[nduda78]

get a piece of hose and use it to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. or use the spray method as described. there are only couple of vacuum lines to check.

the manifold is sitting flush with the lower manifold, right? i'd say remove the blower again. check the vacuum lines while its off. inspect the actuator. i'm willing to bet the dealer had the manifold resting on it and damaged it. if its like a typical actuator, you should be able to push in the actuator rod, plug the vacuum port with your finger and the actuator rod should not move back out until you let your finger of the port. if it looks okay, replace the gasket. apply the rtv properly. reinstall, and see if it goes away.

awe man, im getting lost here....rtv? gasket replacements on the actuator?.......basically as a starting point, lets say I put everything back together and cant find a leak, what would be a next step? I'm going to try looking at the actuator, but i mean it looks ok....I do notice though, that the actuator itselfs moves like 1/16 of an inch, like i can wiggle it......i mean how much force laying on it will break it , i cant see any damage to it physically...I'll take some video tonight.

 

[UnHolyTib]

awe man, im getting lost here....rtv? gasket replacements on the actuator?.......basically as a starting point, lets say I put everything back together and cant find a leak, what would be a next step? I'm going to try looking at the actuator, but i mean it looks ok....I do notice though, that the actuator itselfs moves like 1/16 of an inch, like i can wiggle it......i mean how much force laying on it will break it , i cant see any damage to it physically...I'll take some video tonight.

The actuator should be held in place very securely... if it moves, there is something wrong... so, you still may not have the bypass valve closing properly...

I found that besides cutting the heater hoses 1" shorter, I had to cut off 1 inch of the heater core nipples, then there was no way it was going to touch...

 

[Chuckie]

awe man, im getting lost here....rtv? gasket replacements on the actuator?.......basically as a starting point, lets say I put everything back together and cant find a leak, what would be a next step? I'm going to try looking at the actuator, but i mean it looks ok....I do notice though, that the actuator itselfs moves like 1/16 of an inch, like i can wiggle it......i mean how much force laying on it will break it , i cant see any damage to it physically...I'll take some video tonight.

sorry...on the upper intake manifold gasket. if the actuator is good, replace the upper im gasket and make sure you use the gasket maker per the alpine instuctions.

 

[UnHolyTib]

use a tube of high temp gasket RTV..

 

[nduda78]

well i bypassed the acuator and it still ran weird....my vacum guage shows 20 vacum on idle, which i think is good.....i still hear the hiss from under the car near the cat covertor (see my video)......im thinkign somethign is going on there. When i rev it up to like 5-6k i can almost hear somethign mechancial making a sound under the car around that area........somethings up...i know i didnt run over nuttin.

I sprayed brake cleaner around the gaskets and stuff on the manifold and throttle body.....no leak that i can see.....i really think somethign is going on under the car.....

 

[jovanie]

maybe you have midgets living under there?


P.D. I had nothing else to say

 

[nduda78]

I was waiting for you to chirp in Jovanie..... lol

ok so here is an update , if you call it that....i spoke to a tech thats done a ton of work on my car, and after telling him the recent series of events he is pretty sure the problem....

First off, you may recall my recent problems when i washed my engine, i got water in the spark plug wells , ruined the wires and damaged the coil pack....i had the dealer (it was my only choice at the time) replace all wires and plugs.

Anyways, he says it all fits together......water issues, hissing from near the cat converter, a ting ting ting sound from it also.....he things the cat convertor is clogged or bad now.....he said if that was the issue i would see all the problems i have cause of backpressure problems.

Its being towed to his place tomorrow so he can assess the situation....thoughts?

 

[sadman813]

sounds very possible. the first time i watched the video of your car stalling i thought to myself, that sounds like something physically forced the engine to stop, but i couldnt come up with what. i dont know exactly what the cats are like on these cars, but if they are some kind of ceramic, and it breaks up, you now have a clogged exhaust. But, lets wait and see.

 

[dxkj]

sounds very possible. the first time i watched the video of your car stalling i thought to myself, that sounds like something physically forced the engine to stop, but i couldnt come up with what. i dont know exactly what the cats are like on these cars, but if they are some kind of ceramic, and it breaks up, you now have a clogged exhaust. But, lets wait and see.

How did this turn out?

 

[fixer]

I cant watch the vids..they wont play..nothing shows up..so sorry.

but you can unbolt your collector and see what happenes....IE where the manifolds connect to the "down pipe"

it will be loud, but maybe the car will run different.

the actuator should close off idle...but w/out seeing the car..its hard to say.

 

[nduda78]

sorry for not giving the update.....

ok so when i had my issue with cyl 1/5 misfiring during the water problem i had, apparently during the week i was letting it dry out, try the car, dry out, try the car....etc so much gas and crap from teh misfiring cyl's blew out my pret cat on that header completely and blew it all to the main cat and destroyed that also.....

the fix for the next few weeks, I had the precat hollowed out , (it actually didnt need to be hollowed because it blew it out itself) and then Dennis let me borrow his stock cat. I've purchas a set of SSA headers and hiflow cat Dennis had, and they will be on as soon as I get them.

Even with the way the car is runnign now, its runnign better than I can ever remember...I feel the S/C pull so much more. This makes me wonder if i had damage before.