[TNT]

Adjust the TPS, and see if it makes any difference.

FYI, the TPS is light grey and the IAC is black. Yeah man, if your IAC was bad, your car would've just been idling at like 900-1k RPMS and getting really crappy gas mileage.

 

[Fullblowntib]

Where do you learn all this stuff?

LOL Tibr .....Pat (Malogus ) and quite a few of us have had what you call on the car training with all the mods we've done, Malogus was always one of the guys who would do whatever it took to find out why things worked or didnt work like they did. He's definately a sponge when it comes to figuring things out on whatever cars he mods, especially back in the day when he had till recently the fastest N/A tib on the forums:3_chubby:

 

[White Escort 1.9]

Adjust the TPS, and see if it makes any difference.

FYI, the TPS is light grey and the IAC is black. Yeah man, if your IAC was bad, your car would've just been idling at like 900-1k RPMS and getting really crappy gas mileage.

How would a bad IAC make you have bad gas millege??? The only thing it does is keep you idle at a constant RPM.

 

[237]

LOL Tibr .....Pat (Malogus ) and quite a few of us have had what you call on the car training with all the mods we've done, Malogus was always one of the guys who would do whatever it took to find out why things worked or didnt work like they did. He's definately a sponge when it comes to figuring things out on whatever cars he mods, especially back in the day when he had till recently the fastest N/A tib on the forums:3_chubby:

Who finally got faster than me?

I hate to toot my own horn, but alot of my experience came from working on these engines since early 2002. That and reading pretty much all of the diagnostic information in the Hyundai technical manual multiple multiple times. Same with alot of these other guys like Steve who are trying to help (although he has alot more real world experience working on cars since he does it as a job).

Sorry if I got a little a-holish on the original poster. But when people are presenting a solution more than "check for vacuum leaks", you should listen to those folks. Espeically when they have the amount of posts as myself, fullblowntib and cabletec. This ain't our first rodeo.

If the CPS doesnt fix it, try the wheel speed sensor. For anyone trying to learn how to become better at diagnosing issues, heres a quick tip: Find the root issue, what it's causing, and think about what would cause it. For example, if your car is limiting it's rpms, it's not going to be something simple like a vacuum leak. It makes sense the car woud only limit your rpms, go into limp mode, etc. for something serious. A vacuum leak or irratic idle is typically not serious. However, not recording an accurate wheel speed (which the ecu monitors to help engage the ABS system properly), or not being able to monitor the crank position (which a number of different critical engine timing functions are based on). Try examining the nature and extent of the issue, and find a solution that matches.

 

[White Escort 1.9]

Who finally got faster than me?

I hate to toot my own horn, but alot of my experience came from working on these engines since early 2002. That and reading pretty much all of the diagnostic information in the Hyundai technical manual multiple multiple times. Same with alot of these other guys like Steve who are trying to help (although he has alot more real world experience working on cars since he does it as a job).

Sorry if I got a little a-holish on the original poster. But when people are presenting a solution more than "check for vacuum leaks", you should listen to those folks. Espeically when they have the amount of posts as myself, fullblowntib and cabletec. This ain't our first rodeo.

If the CPS doesnt fix it, try the wheel speed sensor. For anyone trying to learn how to become better at diagnosing issues, heres a quick tip: Find the root issue, what it's causing, and think about what would cause it. For example, if your car is limiting it's rpms, it's not going to be something simple like a vacuum leak. It makes sense the car woud only limit your rpms, go into limp mode, etc. for something serious. A vacuum leak or irratic idle is typically not serious. However, not recording an accurate wheel speed (which the ecu monitors to help engage the ABS system properly), or not being able to monitor the crank position (which a number of different critical engine timing functions are based on). Try examining the nature and extent of the issue, and find a solution that matches.

At least a few people on here don't just tell them to replace parts and see if it improves...

 

[dlanes]

i got my codes read at hyundai dealer not to long ago, i had the iac and possibly the tps, i dont think its my mass airflow because ive got a stock intake, thats it, the only mods i have done are ngk sparkplug wires, and a custom catback

im not sure about my CPS, but i do know my front right speed sensor broke when i changed a wheel bearing, and my abs, and air bag are the only lights on, not check engine.

Reasons I think it is the tps. BTW the speed sensor isn't what is in the hub assembly. It's the abs sensor. That will not cause the problem as described. My abs sensor broke too when I changed my front wheel bearing.

 

[Fullblowntib]

Who finally got faster than me?

I hate to toot my own horn, but alot of my experience came from working on these engines since early 2002. That and reading pretty much all of the diagnostic information in the Hyundai technical manual multiple multiple times. Same with alot of these other guys like Steve who are trying to help (although he has alot more real world experience working on cars since he does it as a job).

Sorry if I got a little a-holish on the original poster. But when people are presenting a solution more than "check for vacuum leaks", you should listen to those folks. Espeically when they have the amount of posts as myself, fullblowntib and cabletec. This ain't our first rodeo.

If the CPS doesnt fix it, try the wheel speed sensor. For anyone trying to learn how to become better at diagnosing issues, heres a quick tip: Find the root issue, what it's causing, and think about what would cause it. For example, if your car is limiting it's rpms, it's not going to be something simple like a vacuum leak. It makes sense the car woud only limit your rpms, go into limp mode, etc. for something serious. A vacuum leak or irratic idle is typically not serious. However, not recording an accurate wheel speed (which the ecu monitors to help engage the ABS system properly), or not being able to monitor the crank position (which a number of different critical engine timing functions are based on). Try examining the nature and extent of the issue, and find a solution that matches.

If I remember right it was BluGTV6 finally popped a 14.2 something it should be in the times page ........I think:3_confuse

 

[237]

Reasons I think it is the tps. BTW the speed sensor isn't what is in the hub assembly. It's the abs sensor. That will not cause the problem as described. My abs sensor broke too when I changed my front wheel bearing.

Pretty sure ABS sensor = wheel speed sensor by Hyundai's definition.

One on each wheel, and measures the speed of the wheel. If one wheel registers has a drastic change in speed, the ecu assumes the wheel is locked up and the abs system actuates the braking to that wheel. If one is busted, it will turn on the abs light, and completely disable the abs system.

 

[237]

If I remember right it was BluGTV6 finally popped a 14.2 something it should be in the times page ........I think:3_confuse

It looks like he did, I hadn't seen that. Congrats to bluetib.

I guess it's time to build another tib.....

 

[dlanes]

Pretty sure ABS sensor = wheel speed sensor by Hyundai's definition.

One on each wheel, and measures the speed of the wheel. If one wheel registers has a drastic change in speed, the ecu assumes the wheel is locked up and the abs system actuates the braking to that wheel. If one is busted, it will turn on the abs light, and completely disable the abs system.

Yah, but I bet if you tell them you need a speed sensor they would give you the "vehicle speed sensor". The abs sensor is call the "front wheel speed sensor". They sound very similar and if you don't know what you're talking about you can get the wrong part ordered and sometimes you have to pay for parts in advance. I just wanted to clarify that the sensor in the hub asembely was for the abs :3_winkthu

 

[Fullblowntib]

It looks like he did, I hadn't seen that. Congrats to bluetib.

I guess it's time to build another tib.....

Right on............I was wondering what it would take to get ya back into one:3_winkthu

 

[SuperSaiyan]

YES!! Malogus back on the Tib scene.....hopefully!

 

[brandon_2oo9]

ok well back to my cars problems, i got my check engine light read at autozone, and for sheck engine light it said

Vehicle speed sensor/performance range A
random cylender misfire
cylender 2 misfire
cylender 4 misfire
cylender 6 misfire
multiple cylender misfire

and now i got my IAC and MAF fixed, so symptoms are as follows

-bad cold start up, engine rpms go from almost 0 to 2k
-engine is sputering, and in nuetral when i put it to the floor, it takes a long time for rpms to go up, it used to just shoot up there
-rev limiter is at 5,200 rpms
-there is a dead spot around 4000 rpms or that spot in the throtle, not sure

when i reset my ecu and get rid of the sheck engine light my car runs perfect for a cuple miles, but when the check engine light comes on it starts running like crap

 

[Tibzie]

ok well back to my cars problems, i got my check engine light read at autozone, and for sheck engine light it said

Vehicle speed sensor/performance range A
random cylender misfire
cylender 2 misfire
cylender 4 misfire
cylender 6 misfire
multiple cylender misfire

and now i got my IAC and MAF fixed, so symptoms are as follows

-bad cold start up, engine rpms go from almost 0 to 2k
-engine is sputering, and in nuetral when i put it to the floor, it takes a long time for rpms to go up, it used to just shoot up there
-rev limiter is at 5,200 rpms
-there is a dead spot around 4000 rpms or that spot in the throtle, not sure

when i reset my ecu and get rid of the sheck engine light my car runs perfect for a cuple miles, but when the check engine light comes on it starts running like crap

Wow. Just described the problem I had for over a year & half. Not sure exactly what fixed mine but I can say the last few things done was a new Clutch/Flywheel, TPS Sensor & cleaned IAC Sensor. Removed iridium plugs and put in the manual recommened laser plat's. This slightly improved it. A couple of weeks later I had the timing belt done and bam-o! Problem was gone. I don't even know why.

 

[Fullblowntib]

Wow. Just described the problem I had for over a year & half. Not sure exactly what fixed mine but I can say the last few things done was a new Clutch/Flywheel, TPS Sensor & cleaned IAC Sensor. Removed iridium plugs and put in the manual recommened laser plat's. This slightly improved it. A couple of weeks later I had the timing belt done and bam-o! Problem was gone. I don't even know why.

Tibz it was probablt cuz your belt was a tooth off , and the vehicle speed sensor is exactly what I was worried about on your car brandon , so this means you have more than one problem at present time on your car, fix them one at a time and it should start improving:3_winkthu

 

[brandon_2oo9]

yeap, ive got two problems, my timing is off, and my speed sensor is either broken, or disconected, it all started when i got my tranny replaced, i think i need a new one, the mechanic prolly broke it, how much are they?

 

[brandon_2oo9]

ok, so does anyone want to sell me a speed sensor for a 2003 tiburon gt 6speed?

 

[dlanes]

ok, so does anyone want to sell me a speed sensor for a 2003 tiburon gt 6speed?

Are you sure it's the vehicle speed sensor? Are you sure it's not front wheel speed sensor? (abs sensor) The vehicle speed sensor is on top of the transmission. I can't remember if it's in the front or back of the tranny. There should be two sensors on top of the 6 speed. The rear I believe is the speed sensor, but I wouldnt know since I never had to replace one. Did you get a print out of the codes? Please post codes like C1205 or P0500 these are both speed sensor codes but different sensors/systems. One is tranny the other abs

Also, check your connections, maybe you shorted out something in your wirring. Check the fuse panel under the hood. May be a wirring or fuse issue. Don't throw parts at it. If you want to do that take it to the dealer and have them tell you whats wrong for $45.

 

[brownnote]

have you made sure you aren't out of whack with the throttle cables and throttle plate? did I ask that already? that could feel like a "dead spot" if there is too much slack. just throwing it out there.

hmmm. again, sounds like the sensor on the knuckle (abs or whatever), and also wtf is up with the missfires. seems like a timing issue possibly I would agree, but go over all your sensors and connections to make sure nothing is broken, and check firing order etc.

think think think.

oh, and make sure you didn't switch the tps and iac plugs...

 

[White Escort 1.9]

If I remember right I was reading a thread a month to 6 weeks ago that was having the same issue as you and it turned out to be the timing had skipped a tooth. I can't remember the name of the post though.