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My results tuning with an Apexi Neo

8.7K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Kman Tib  
#1 ·
I've been adjusting and re-adjusting my Neo for a couple of weeks now and I think I finally got it where I want it.

I started by logging several runs at wot in 1st & 2nd gear. Some from a standing start and some while rolling at low speed. I couldn't really log anything meaningful in 3rd gear because that would mean exceeding the speed limit on the interstate by as much as 40 mph at 6500 rpms.

I use an Innovate OT-1 and MTX-L wideband AFR gauge to log data in Logworks. The log files in Logworks are displayed as a graph. This is a graph in 2nd gear before installing the Neo in my car with V6, short ram intake, headers, and custom exhaust:

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From those logs, I created charts of AFR at 200 rpm increments that look like this:

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I entered all of those numbers into a spreadsheet and applied some calculations to determine what % correction I needed at each of the given rpm points to achieve 13.00 AFR. The Neo only gives you 16 points of correction so I played around with a lot of different increments...1250 -6500 in 350 rpm increments, 1900 – 6400 in 300 rpm increments, and 2750 – 6500 in 250 rpm increments before I realized that the ECU does a pretty good job of managing the AFR up to about 3500 rpms. If you look at the above graph prior to the Neo install, you can see that the AFR doesn't start to drop much below 13.00 until then, and thats just one run, if you take an average of several runs it actually stays a little more over 13.00. So the map I settled on was 3500 – 6500 in 200 rpm increments. After entering my initial settings into my Neo I took my car out and logged some more data, entered those numbers into my spreadsheet, and made a few minor adjustments. I did this several times until I was satisfied I had the smoothest graph possible. this graph is also in 2nd gear:

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And here's the corresponding chart:

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Looking at the graphs, you will see HP and Torque lines. These are done in Logworks using math calculations based off the rpm slope and several pieces of information that I had to supply like tire diameter, gear ratio, final drive ratio, frontal area of the car, and coefficient of drag. (all of these can be found using Google and a shop manual) the bottom line though...these numbers are far from accurate, but they are a good tool for comparing what different changes you make to your set-up have on your car's performance.

That having been said, you can see from the before and after graph that torque remained pretty much unchanged but HP increased from 142 to 159. Again, those numbers are most likely not accurate but since it was all logged on the same car, it does show that a significant amount of HP was gained from the tune. Another thing that can't really be seen in the graphs is that the elapsed time from 21 mph to 71mph improved by almost a full second.

So now I have a nice looking AFR graph but I have no idea if I am making the most HP that I can so I may experiment with it by adding or subtracting 1% at a time across the board to see what affect that has but I guess I will really never know until I get it on a dyno.
 
#3 ·
I will soon enough, just got done playing with the Neo today. I'll probably wait until after I get my cams back from crower and get them installed before I spend money on a dyno.

Hell, I don't even know if anyone has a dyno in Ocala, some people around here don;t even have indoor plumbing.
 
#4 ·
Great write up about the Neo. Glad to see your putting it to good use. I know Sniper tuning has one around here check them out snipertuningfla . c o m . They did my dad's Mustang GT. They have a mustang dyno though so your numbers could be a little high

And yes for all of those non-believers there are "a lot" of people here that dont have indoor plumbing. They mostly live out in the forest area.
 
#8 ·
The Greddy e-Manage is supposed to be good piggy back tuner but with not much support for our cars you'd be treading in basically unknown territory for almost everything from wiring it up to tuning with it. For what it does and what you'd want to do I'd stick with the AEM FIC - comparable piggy back with allot more support to fall back on for help, unless you are VERY knowledgable with tuning and all the electronic aspecs of our cars and it's engine management.