[Red2.0Tib]

you can get the block bored and sleeved.

Not with a cast iron block.....

Chris I can't see the pic at work, but were you running the CP pistons when this happened or are they what you are using to replace the defective units? I am gathering that you were from what I have read, and if so yes there should have been wire locks on them and the side to side movement is not normal. It sounds like either the guy installing installed the originals or none at all.
Also, it could be a problem with weight and balance...though CP appears to make some high quality products I doubt it, but here is a link to an article about centripetal forces that I found when searching for parts one day: http://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/Crankshaft-Balancing.html
Anyway, good luck man, hope you get it straightened out quick.

 

[JDOGG]

Wire locks are used on full floating pins. your cp piston uses full floating pins.
I dont belive this caused your problem but it could have become a problem if the pin had shifted and touched the cylinder wall.
is there any scuffing on the ends of the pin?
Does the pin move freely inside the connecting rod?
does the pin move freely inside the piston?

 

[Red2.0Tib]

Actually I might stand corrected on the CP's their web site says they use factory locks on all the applications listed here, then again they don't list the Beta2
http://www.cppistons.com/catalogs/sport_compact/sport_compact.html

 

[chris929]

Ok here we go have a look....



Doesn't seem right to me, as you can see it locks in the correct center position when I push it to the right- however I can push it freely to the left.

 

[dmdicks]

Your so-called 'Mechanic' owes you an engine. Period. OEM Pistons don't need wrist pin wire locks because of how the pin fits into the piston and OEM Rod. CP pistons are designed for full floating writ pins. What is a full floating wrist pin? Its a wrist pin that actually turns inside the piston as well as the rod. OEM wrist pins are press fit into the connecting rod so the only part that moves is the part of the pin inside the sides of the piston.
To use the floating wrist pins on OEM rods the ends have to be machined and a bushing inserted to allow the wrist pin to move. In you case it looks like the Mechanic reused the OEM wrist pins which are press fit into the connecting rod. This in itself is not a major problem if you had a piston designed for a pressed fit wrist pin, but you do not. Unless your 'mechanic' contacted CP and they told him it was ok, he should be held accountable for all your damage.

 

[chris929]

well I just had a look and the wrist pins say CP on them. The wrist pins were installed by the machine shop that bored out my block so i'm going to try to get a hold of them.

 

[JDOGG]

Im with dm on this one.
if the machine shop did not refit the rod's then it's pretty obvious what happened here....
They owe you a new block, new pistons, new rods, and assembly. sux to be them.

 

[dmdicks]

They may have used the CP pins as a press fit pin. Bottom line is that they should've known the CP recommends you machine the rod end to use the wrist pin as a full floating pin. It was a matter of time before something went wrong. You could have been running no boost and it still would've happened. Engine building is just like tuning. Get it done right or deal with the consequences.

 

[chris929]

what are the odds the machine shop will actually take responsibility for this...i personally doubt they will.

 

[dmdicks]

If it is a good shop, the the odds are good. Bad shop equals bad odds. Your their customer and the customer is always right until proven wrong. In this case you need to contact CP and get it in writing that their pistons NEED to be installed with the full floating setup to function properly. Once you have that proof the shop can't say a thing.

 

[chris929]

Ok thanks Dave i'll get on this.

 

[chris929]

anyone know if the rods need to be modified to accept the free-floating pin?

 

[denisst99]

stock rods needs to have the big end either enlarged about 0.002'' or enlarged about 0.100'' and have a bushing installed in them to be converted to full floating

CP,Wiseco,Ross all be used with pressfit pins,just leave the wire lock in the box
FYI always measure the pins and the rod bore to be sure the pressfit will be tight enough to hold the pin in the rod

ultra light pins (thin walled) could be pressed in,but won't hold very long since they will deform and slip out so ful lfloating is the only way to go with those

 

[JDOGG]

stock rods needs to have the big end either enlarged about 0.002'' or enlarged about 0.100'' and have a bushing installed in them to be converted to full floating

CP,Wiseco,Ross all be used with pressfit pins,just leave the wire lock in the box
FYI always measure the pins and the rod bore to be sure the pressfit will be tight enough to hold the pin in the rod

ultra light pins (thin walled) could be pressed in,but won't hold very long since they will deform and slip out so ful lfloating is the only way to go with those

dude, you mean the small end needs to be machined not the large end.

 

[denisst99]

indeed,
small end need to be honed or bored depending if you install a bushing or not

 

[grumpy1]

did you take another piston out to see how that is? maybe the lock fell out due to failure and the rod is seized to the pin.

it got way to hot at pin, i dont want to sound dumb, but the burnt means heat. and oil cools and lubricates. why wasnt it there? do you need diffrent rods for full floating pins for wrist pin bushing lubrication?
sorry man just my 2 cents hate to see you go crazy. start simple look at another one. take that apart while you take failed one apart. even if it costs 20 bucks so it doesnt happen again

 

[427troy]

What is the end of the story? Did you ever get it back together? Did it work?